Save the Garment Center Rally

I just got back from the Save the Garment Center Rally and I was quite heartened by the turnout.

Nanette Lepore Speaking

Crowd breaking up & media presence

 
I was a little nervous, since over the last year and a half or so I had contacted them several times about volunteering, but got nowhere and kinda gave up on that route.  This afternoon I met Anthony Lilore, of Restore clothing who told me that Save the Garment Center is now being managed by a whole new set of people, so I am hoping to find out soon what I can do directly to help.

Attendance ran across the board, design, sales, backroom staff, sewers, cutters etc, etc and Speakers included Joe Raico,  from the Documentary "Schmatta",  he is the very insightful guy whose history in the Garment Center, working as a cutter, makes up a good part of the narrative of the film.  Which I saw last night and I really recommend it. (review here)  It really is a microcosm of what is going on all over the country and it makes you angry and sad and really, really pissed off.  What happened to us?  

The speakers included Nanette Lepore and Robert Savage, Christine Quinn,  Yeolee Teng,  & Micky Boardman among others as well as a very powerful letter  by costume designer Martin Pakledinaz that was read, which really emphasized beautifully how very far beyond NYC and fashion business the importance of having and saving the Garment Center goes.

Then on my way home I passed this:

(I have dubbed it "Hotel UGH".  This is at what was considered the outskirts of the Garment Center. )

ok- not so bad...

valet parking perhaps?

You like the view?

UGH!

From the corner of 9th Avenue looking East, hotel entrance is on right (South) side past scaffolding & park here signs. The building on the left is Port Authority. 

The view is not going to change. neither will the traffic, (this is the Bus Entrance of Port Authority) 

Welcome to New Yawk City! (circa 1974)

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Save the Garment Center Rally

Schmatta, when things were Made in the USA, in NYC.

A friend of mine in San Diego Just sent me this link to this HBO Special and I completely missed it! (Doh!)  So I will be going home tonight to watch it before tomorrow's Rally at the Big Button & Needle Statue.  Thank You Jean for bringing this to may attention.  (I love TV On-Demand)

I started spending a lot of time in the garment center when I was doing costumes as a kid. I'd come in from NJ to get supplies and at one point I was assisting one of my teachers from my costume design classes.  He was working on "The Devil and Miss Jones 2" (Funny Story, but for another day). 

He was on 18th street, so it was between the Garment Center and 14th Street to get supplies.  He always wanted me to go to 14th street, which I HATED with a passion.  Yes, 14th Street was closer but it took 10 times longer to find anything,  scrounging through the filthy & dinky discount shops that made up 14th street at the time.

Meanwhile, up in the Garment center you could get Everything and Anything you ever needed, for any kind of sewn project, no matter how unusual, specialized or bizarre.  You only had to duck the guys pushing their carts as opposed to dealing with the skeevy souk-like atmosphere that ruled 14th street at the time.  It was amazing, crowded, vibrant and inspiring all at the same time.  We need it back.

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Schmatta, when things were Made in the USA, in NYC.

New Rules - Consultation Fee for New Clientele

Starting October 15th, there will a $150.00 fee for New Clients for any in-person appointment for custom made leather.  (Post Updated December 9th 2009)


At the time of the initial appointment a $150.00 minimum deposit is required.  This is payable by Visa, MasterCard or cash. 

This will be applied 100% to your order of the garment under consideration, within 1 month of initial appointment only.  If you do not follow through with an order in that time frame it cannot be refunded or applied to any future orders.  This covers up to a 1 hour, in-person consultation, measurements and includes any and all additional time spent swatching leather samples, researching styles,  & all  correspondence, etc. 

All jobs started at the time of appointment require a 50% deposit.  On occasion an estimate may not be finalized at time of first appointment (due to exact fabrication or design details not being completely finalized, additional info needed from client, etc. etc.) In this case the deposit required is 50% of low end of initial estimate.  Please note I do not give "estimates" over the phone.  All I can do over the phone is give you an idea of an average price range  based only on the items that people have ordered recently. 

At this time we do not accept Amex in the studio, but we do accept it online.  So,  if you wish to pay with American Express we will send you an invoice via PayPal that is payable online (you do not need a PayPal account), at least 48 hours before the scheduled appointment.  This payment must be processed at least 24 hrs before appointment to secure your chosen time slot.

As much as I would like to continue providing free initial consultations to New and Prospective customers,  with my schedule and in consideration of ongoing projects with my current clientele it is simply no longer possible. 

This consultation fee does not apply to any current or repeat clientele. 

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New Rules - Consultation Fee for New Clientele

Correction!!!- Save the Garment Center October 21st

Reposting  because  I am sooo freeking DYSLEXIC.... It's not the 12th it's the 21st of October!!!!
Be there,  Please.  (I did enter it in my calender correctly at least!)

Just got notice of this Rally this in my mailbox and I hope to see tons of people at Noon on October 21th at 39th Street and 7th Avenue, under the Big Button Statue.  For more info go here.

An addendum:

This is from my dear friend Carolyn Kostopolous, owner of Carelli Costumes (and NO do not call them about Halloween, they ONLY do Broadway and are understandably sick of the phone calls this time of year. ) She says it much better than I do.

“I have to say, I'm not sure what the point is.  Obviously, I believe the country and, more specifically, the city should have a viable manufacturing  / crafts base- clothes, furniture, food, anything tangible.  as a nation, we don't make anything anymore- just a bunchof overpaid suits who sit in front of computer screens and trade information.  if they could do anything with their hands, they mightbe happy fulfilled people and not need to make unconscionable sums of money for nothing.

However, at some point you have to realize that the garment district is gone in all but name.  Even if you lowered rents or stopped residential development, which might be all but stopped now due to the recession, but the people, the workers who had the skill to sewall that stuff are all retired, moved or dead.

Angelo said much the same thing to me when Obama was elected.  He said "Ok, what difference is that going to make?  You don't produce anything in this country and you haven't for years.  It's not like all the capable people are sitting around waiting for jobs to open up.  Those people have moved on."

But I do think it's worth a fight.  We have to get people making things again.  Who will replace me?  Or you?  You can't learn what we know on the internet or in a two year course.

And once the economy becomes based more on real things rather than mere information, and I think it has to, the only people who will survive are those who can actually make something.”

We have to keep manufacturing and all the support businesses in Manhattan.  This city,  this country cannot afford to just toss out and ghetto- ize buisnesses that are providing REAL  JOBS  that support REAL & SKILLED workers.  We cannot afford to put all our eggs into the unrealistic and now proven delusory fantasy that is Wall Street  & the so called "market".  Whose market?  Unlike Shakespeare, in this case, "thinking" be it on paper or via some quant's computer model,  doesn't make it so.

We need to keep these skilled and specialty jobs in Manhattan. We need to keep these skilled jobs in this country, period.

Because, no matter what many people may think, to be able to sew and make clothing is a skill not to be taken lightly.  Think about it,  it is one of the skills,  that given an apocalyptic situation would be needed right up there with food and building shelter.

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Correction!!!- Save the Garment Center October 21st

The Rolex Jacket has Finally Landed...

Wow, I had almost forgotten about this jacket... I wonder if the stylist even knows, it's been so long.

But it looks fantastic and I am so glad the photos finally came out!  All around a gorgeous shoot.
Thank You's go out to to a new customer for bring this to my attention,  I really appreciate it.
And Tommaso, wherever you are,  it looks amazing!  When are we gonna work together again!!!?

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The Rolex Jacket has Finally Landed...

Save the Garment Center Rally October 12th

Correction, the date is OCTOBER 21st !!! see NEW POST

Just got notice of this Rally this in my mailbox and I hope to see tons of people at Noon on October 12th  Correction October 21st at 39th Street and 7th Avenue, under the Big Button Statue.  For more info go here.

We have to keep manufacturing and all the support businesses in Manhattan.  This city,  this country cannot afford to just toss out and ghetto- ize buisnesses that are providing REAL  JOBS  that support REAL & SKILLED workers.  We cannot afford to put all our eggs into the unrealistic and now proven delusory fantasy that is Wall Street  & the so called "market".  Whose market?  Unlike Shakespeare, in this case, "thinking" be it on paper or via some quant's computer model,  doesn't make it so.

We need to keep these skilled and specialty jobs in Manhattan. We need to keep these skilled jobs in this country, period.

Because, no matter what many people may think, to be able to sew and make clothing is a skill not to be taken lightly.  Think about it,  it is one of the skills,  that given an apocalyptic situation would be needed right up there with food and building shelter.

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Save the Garment Center Rally October 12th

Channeling H.R. Giger

 Wow, was I blown away when I finally got the chance to look at Alexander McQueen's show.  The prints are brilliant, the use of the prints is so out of this world.  They blew me away.

So....Um...Very...ALIEN...

 

photos: Style.com

So I am perfectly perplexed as to why all the review on Style.com could talk about was Lady Gaga and the accompanying hordes on twitter.  

It mentions the concept as being sort of an apocolyptic "Waterworld".  But,  it completely ignores the VERY  OBVIOUS and (I think) incredibly beautifully executed homage to the works of H.R. Giger.

H.R Giger,  I think is one of the most influential of our contemporary artists.   His work transformed  and completely re-invented & redefined what is "Alien",  threatening and unfathomable, both in us,  and in the futuristic universes that make up his realm.

 His painting are just that - paintings, not computer generated, but generated out of his imagination and made real in all of the various film and decor projects he has done over the years.

Case in point... check out the full splash page on the official HR Giger site -  it could be the breast plate of one of the dresses....

 The real deal at www.hrgiger.com

Not to mention the shoes and the hair, both of which are incredible -  as both unbelievable edifices and pure works of art.  I am astounded that the girls could walk in these! (and I wonder how much they weigh - they are so purely dangerous! I like this. A lot!)

 

 

photos: style.com

I am such a sucker for prints,  having worked in leather for so long,  so I think this is my favorite McQueen collection of all time! 

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Channeling H.R. Giger

What drugs were they on?

When they came up with the idea that Lindsay Lohan could/should be the Creative Director at Ungaro?

Who, really, actually believed this would work?

...with a whole line of leggings under her belt? (I don't like to be catty, but really...sad)

& I have noticed they have recently updated the leggings website, with slightly better teeny-tiny leggings pictures, but still crappy looking "enlargements" of details.

But... what's with the Marilyn Monroe fixation??? A gigantic insult to Marilyn, who did exhibit both talent and taste in her public life. Yes, I get the drug-addled comparisons they allude to, but please...

I seriously do not get the reference to Marilyn on leggings with quilted leather knee patches. But I would really like to know who set up this deal for her. Imagine what they could do if they actually had some talent to work with!

The whole thing is fascinating but really, really depressing for the Fashion Industry everywhere...

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What drugs were they on?

Ready-to-Wear vs Custom-Made

Fashion Week is over here in NYC, and everywhere, the press has been full of stories on the state of the industry, the price of the clothes and how to give the industry, especially at the high end, a jolt.

Debate over price point, $800.00 for a dress is considered by some to be to “low end” for “high end” according to an interview in the NYT with Vera Wang, while Thakoon shows off $100.00 a yard fabric that he plans to use for a dress that will wind up at about 2000.00 in the stores.

Me, I think this is pretty impressive, considering he has to make that dress, pay for all the materials (There is a lot of draping this season=more fabric) & notions (trims, buttons, zippers etc) plus the highly skilled sewers needed to make something that will merit that price and then, add his markup, covering fixed and variable costs, and allowing for some profit (this should also include an allowance for buy backs & charge backs) plus carrying costs, since he will probably have to wait between 90 - 120 days to get paid. All this, for about 1/3rd of that estimated retail price.

On the other hand, in Thursdays’ style section was a feature “The Bodysuit Electric” featuring a $2300.00 ready-to-wear YSL strapless leather 1980’s style bodysuit, and all the different ways you can wear it. (Unfortunately all too 1980's derived) It is a hot, sexy garment, but why would you buy this as RTW? Even in the editorial you can see that the model will fall out of it the second she spontaneously raises an arm. A great piece, but a piece of this sort screams out to be custom-made. And when you consider the investment, it should to be custom-made.

What do you think, RTW vs Custom-Made?
Why and for what would you make the choice, or not, to go Custom-Made?

Or even Made-to-Order? (Usually an existing style, but adjusted to suit, usually within a specified size range.)

Other reads:
Wall Street Journal - various articles on Luxury
Forbes

There is a ton more out there, but my brain is a bit fried from the last week. I need a break!

Runway (!) Image Credit
There are some really fabulous photos here, Enjoy!

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Ready-to-Wear vs Custom-Made

Ephemeral and Eternal

The view this evening:











It is beyond my ability to describe the feelings that fill my heart when I see these lights. They are simply, to me, the most beautiful and fitting memorial to all who died on 9/11/01 and to all who have fought for us and all who have died since.

The Skyline is like a hazy glimmer of what could be the best in us. A once and future dream if you will. I hope we will reach it.

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Ephemeral and Eternal

Rick Owens' Real Aesthetics

I had to post this, the first part a great interview with Rick Owens that I found here, On The Business of Fashion. Part two is on youtube.

I have known about Rick Owens since the late 80's. A roommate of mine was good friend of Michelle Lamy, who he lived with at the time, in LA. I was always hearing about the clothes he was designing. (We've probably been designing for the same amount of time.) So over the years I've always followed his work and have always held a great deal of admiration for it, especially as a fellow designer who works in leather. In this interview, I realize that we share a lot as far as our feelings about fashion, the industry and working in it. His POV, is both practical and realistic and he doesn't buy into all the BS that we are bombarded with constantly.



I love that he jettisoned his press office, and the reason why. I love, love, love his kind of aggravated comment on the cv's & "collages" he sees all the time.

"Everyone wants to be a designer, what I need is older people who know how to make the stuff"

I could not have said it better myself. Bravo!

(Case in point is a dear friend who gave up teaching her Senior's course in American Couture at FIT. Because FIT does not teach them enough construction to either make or differentiate between 4 types of buttonholes. How shameful of FIT.)

I love that Rick Owens has stayed so true to himself over the years and of course I love what he does with leather (& knits). We share an aesthetic about wearability and quality & I am thrilled that he is finally getting his due.

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Rick Owens' Real Aesthetics

Glorious Leather Jacket

Ok, after getting all worked up about the leather jackets in "Inglourious Basterds" let's get back to the modern world. (Though I live to see those statement lapels come back!)

Here are some photos of a jacket I just finished, in an incredible espresso brown leather called "Roadrunner". The leather was milled a bit before cutting to bring out the grain. I am loving this leather. It's got a beautiful hand and very good weight and it works up beautifully.

This jacket was based on a old and much loved & worn, jacket belonging to the customer.

But the original jacket was quite beat up & much too over-sized for his taste & style today so really it was just a jumping off point.

It is lined in a heavy weight cotton sateen in a contrasting khaki and has these wonderful variegated horn buttons as well as two large outside pockets and 3 interior pockets, 2 at chest level and a special semi- hidden card pocket.














I am thrilled with the way it came out. It looks great on him, suits him perfectly & and should last him forever! ... Drat, did I just lose another customer!?

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Glorious Leather Jacket

Glourious...

I saw Inglourous Basterds last night. I wasn't originally planning to - but after seeing it mentioned on 2 of my favorite blogs, here & here, both of them highlighting the costumes, well... (like I said, I'm a sucker for costumes) I really enjoyed it.

QT has a shoe fetish, and with such great shoes, who wouldn't?

... and of course the leather...

(I must admit, though, after 'Grindhouse' I was a bit apprehensive - I could not stand that movie- dreckola- plus y plus-! I had to force myself to be polite & not ditch my friend in the theater!)

Anyone else see the huge "Brazil" influence in this film? Between the costumes, the mores, & the buffoonish portrayal of so many of the Nazis?

I do hope we will be seeing a lot more of Mélanie Laurent & Christoph Waltz in films here now, they are both tremendous talents.

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Glourious...

One Man's Luxury

Saw Harry Potter the other night, really enjoyed the visuals and kinda made me wish I still had a hand in the costume business....love costumes!

Anyhow, on the way home, a conductor got on the train & we both immediately noticed his bag.

It was gorgeous, & obviously made specially for the things conductors need, with an unusual square base, solid brass hardware and in an incredibly beautifully broken in leather.

We admired it & I took some (not very good) photos with my phone:

And then we got a great story from the owner (this guy had obviously been stopped about this bag many, many times) and he beamed as he told us that he got it custom made back in 1988!

He had to get a bag for the job back then so he and a few other guys got together and commissioned these special custom- made bags. He's had his ever since and uses it every single day since he got it.

He chuckled as he went on to say that the cheap bags that the MTA was pushing at the time would last on average 6 months and had to be replaced like clockwork. That, and they all got ribbed endlessly that they were spending way too much money for a bag.

And then he chuckled again...

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One Man's Luxury

Perfect Skins

People always ask what I make in leather, and my answer is... everything! I think "leather" is still oddly stuck on either "outerwear" or "fetish" wear in most people's minds when it comes up as a specific fabrication. And, I decided to focus on leather because I like the restraint :) it gives me. Like many artists I work best with a tightly defined goal or project, so I chose leather as my medium. I do work in other fabrics, but not here.   After all why would I need to? Look at just some of the things that can be done with skins... Please Turn The Sound DOWN - Or OFF!  My Apologies.

This video is of my last production collection, showing examples of work done in hand painted leather, laser cut leathers, distressed leathers, leather with hand-cut work and lacing, woven leather, reversible leather and fur, and stretch leather. As well as the leather & textile fabrications that are exclusive to BehrleNYC. Variations of many of these items can be custom-made.

Perfect Skins

A Note on Contacting Me for Custom-Made Items

Once in a while I get inquires either with mis-typed addresses or blocked addresses.

So this is just a reminder that when filling in contact forms either here or on the main site, please make sure you allow responses from behrlenyc.com into your e-mail. Otherwise I will be unable to answer your question.

I try very hard to answer all inquiries during the same or next the business day, so If you haven't heard back within that time, there may be a problem. So, as back-up you may also contact me via a comment here on this blog...I do not post comments with e-mails in them. & Yes I do custom made for all sizes. However hard-to-fit body types & plus sizes usually require in person appointments for measuring and fittings.

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A Note on Contacting Me for Custom-Made Items

White vs Black vs Wordpress

Such a nice contrast! I don't work on white often, leather is such an attention getter and white makes it even that much more so! So it takes a certain, very strong and confident personality to own a piece like this!



Fun to work on project, hopefully my client will one day send a photo of it on! Shot like this definitely does not give full effect.

Here, another unique and very personalized piece. Soft lambskin leather sweat pants for kicking back in. With full details- zip pockets and lower leg and waistband detail.





And lastly, something I've just started to get requests for, a mens jean style in the same stretch leather featured in our womens leggings. This client opted for stretch throughout the waist, which appears as slight gathering at the waistline when shot flat like this, but smooths out completely on the body. First thing he remarked on was how comfortable these jeans are.



Also, I am in the process of putting together a blog where I hope to eventually give an
overview of the actual process involved in creating various custom-made pieces.

Right now, The-Process is (mainly) a foray into my own (little bit frustrating) learning curve with Wordpress, but I'll get there!

I could never have managed so far on WP without this class. So please bear with me on this one.
It is truly a work-in-progress.

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White vs Black vs Wordpress

World Domination Supermodel!

This headline is not my own but the subject of an e-mail from my dear friend Karin... and here is what she sent me:

baby Leonardo Lovell.

Is he adorable or what?!!! And what confidence! At 2 1/2 months and counting he is one beautiful baby!

Congrats to the proud family; New Mom Karin, Leonardo Sr. and big bro Jordan.

Our Love goes out to you big time!

(& Thank You, Karin for the cute pix- I do love finally getting to see one of these on!)

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World Domination Supermodel!

Editorial Consideraton

Been a little tricky for me to keep on top of this blog lately, I think I may need to get help with this facet of things soon....it's hard for me to come up with things to write about &while I have tons of plans, I know I need massive help organizing them & planning! Plus, without the time to spend here on a regular basis it has just become problematic. So for now and to keep things lively, here is a recent editorial I received in Vice magazine & a little change of pace;




It was pulled mainly from items from my "World Domination " line.
it was shot by Richard Kern and inspired by his "NY Girls" era work and styled by Avena Gallagher.

More Editorial Here

I still make many items from the line- (besides the few items in the shop- under sensual) either custom made, (for things like corsets) or made to order, Masks, hoods, etc.

I am always somewhat amused by the attention these items get, on a continual basis.
Since, while they are all pretty classic, me, I have been looking at them for far too long!
So, getting to see them shot anew was a treat.

And since I've been diggin' through the old archives... (eventually I hope to get up a sister site to sell these things specifically) here's some more WD.




and I will note the extra watermarks are on everything due to the fact that we found somebody ripping off our images to sell some g'dawful crap on e-bay. I shudder to think what the product looked (let alone smelt like- based on where it was coming out of.) This work cannot be done cheaply, neither the fit, the leathers, nor the skill to make the patterns can be gotten at a cut rate. Not to mention the attention to detail and service, especially when you are talking custom made.

I hope you have enjoyed this little foray into the archives and we will be back on the 27th of May. So if you have any inquiries, feel free to contact us & we will get back to you then.

Editorial Consideraton

Swamped Myself Good

I am incredibly sick of poking my way through web and internet stuff for hours to get somewhere- I am still not that fluent with a lot of the online stuff & I really need to do my work.

Which in actuality has nothing to do with the computer, can't be done on it, can't be facilitated by it- I can sell on it, but, in the end... I really need to be at the drafting desk, on the phone...just elsewhere.

So, I am taking some online classes, I thought they would be something fairly easy where I might learn something- anything!
Boy, was I wrong, these are real, good and hardcore classes and I signed up for two of them. I had no idea. I am thrilled. I hope I can make it through.

Class is on week 5 and I've gotten up to week 3 on both, working on 4 now. So very behind. On top of it, I was expecting a somewhat slow period, as is usual this time of year for me.
I am not getting it. A friend of mine calls these "cadillac problems" which is a perfect name and I think, not "problems" so much as reminder. I love being busy, and a let up can throw you off your game. The trick is to keep a healthy balance and be, ultimately, in control.

I will probably take one or both of these classes again, but one at a time, and not when I am also taking Spanish! (and moving...) way, way too much..

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Swamped Myself Good

Ah Ha! The Mystery is solved...

Some times this whole blog thing has me so frustrated. I spent hours at one point figuring out how to get a little music playing here. One of my pet peeves about my main site is lack of music.
Which one day I hope to eventually address, along with updating the whole bunch of stuff. My Men's wear area is the orphan of the site, which is a shame as it's really the bulk of what I do these days.

Anyhow, the other day I got a Google Alert with a link to my videos on YouTube, so I go check it out , of course it is some silly, harvester site or whatever they are called, capitalizing on "sexy" and "models".. ho hum. But, wait! There is only Part 1 showing up.

So I go to you tube and look at my account and lo, NO Part 2! Some notice saying I'd been sent an e-mail (when? I never got it. I hear from YouTube like- never. Once I got a Peta Freek cussing me out in Spanish...but that's about it.)

Just a little note, that because some Jesus and Mary Chain was playing in the background (guitar noise and a couple of lytrics for maybe 7-13 seconds) the whole thing was ripped off of YouTube. I would have been perfectly fine if they'd removed the music altogether, even from the rest of the 6 minutes. But no, no option to remove background music, just a stupid (bad) music generator with ADVERTS!

Gimme a break! Live DJ- with a theme, no playlist, a few seconds, and they take the whole thing down?

Today first thing, front of the New York Times Business Section was the answer.

Eventually I will learn how to get that pesky video up in it's entirety, here on this blog somewhere, and WB can bite me. (and I am sure alot of other po'd people)

The only thing I ever watched on You Tube was vintage Music Videos (especially Roxy Music- STYLE- personified, the Best!) Now it sounds like a ton of that sort of stuff is gone. What's the point?

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Ah Ha! The Mystery is solved...

Custom Made Men's Leather Pants, Part 3

I very recently finished these, but have not gotten to post till now, been swamped - (between doing some re-location, taking 3 different classes and work- whew!) Plus , since the final design was surprise I wanted to wait till he got them. These were done via the mail.

I did a combination of inlay work in a grainy black elk-skin and contrast stitching on these.
I am really happy with how they came out and so is my client!

He wrote me the nicest note:

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU

I've picked up the pants and in a word they are "Magnificent" The
pocket detailing is incredible and exactly what what I was looking for.
The brown colour is beautiful and is perfect. The craftsmanship
exemplary.

Tried getting some pictures but they haven't turned out well. Will try
to get others to you shortly.

I'm just a average guy who is on the downward side of middle age,
looking to "dress it up" Your sense of style, execeptional craftmanship
and dedication will allow me to do that in spades.

When can I a get a black pair!

Thanks again and I can't wait to wear them out.

(Glenn B, Calgary)

It makes me so happy when my clients are thrilled, especially when the whole pant was more of less a surprise. The choice of leather, design, details, all but the primary color, brown. I sent a bunch of swatches, but the choice was left to me. Based on e-mail discussions, this is what I did.

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Now playing: Fun Lovin' Criminals - Back On the Block
via FoxyTunes

Custom Made Men's Leather Pants, Part 3

Custom Made Men's Leather Pants Two

Wishing everybody the best this day and I wish you all love in your hearts, be it for your family, friends, pets and please don't forget yourself.

I have been quite remiss with posting, I have been doing quite a few things at once lately, not the least of which is trying to learn Spanish!

I am dreaming of one day moving to Argentina or Uruguay. I would love to be able to work from there, I completely fell in love with Buenos Aires and the other parts of Argentina I visited and I cannot wait to go back and spend more time there. I saw leather work out of Uruguay that rivaled anything out of Italy and plan on looking into that next trip. They could definitely handle what I do...

I have been doing more custom-made men’s leather pants via the mail.
Working out the process and perfecting the system, as properly taken measurements are key. Often each tailor/fitter has a specific way of taking measurements that works best for their fit and styling. So you need to be clear on your system.

In a costume shop, it is either the pattern maker themselves or their trained assistant who will take the actors measurements. Years ago when I worked at the NYC Shakespeare Festival Costume Shop, each pattern maker had an assistant, and they were not interchangeable. If an assistant was not available only a comparable level pattern maker or the head of the shop could take the measurements. It sounds anal, but
there was good reason for this.

The pants shown here were done with e-mailed measurements. There was very little on the muslin that had to be adjusted. & So my system gets tweeked & improved each time, to make it clearer and simpler for both my customer and myself.

Here is a pair of custom pants made for a long time customer, who is quite a dashing gentleman with a fabulous sense of style. His style is a modern, elegant cross between Leone’s “the man with no name” & “the man in black”, since over the years I've made him 5 or 6 pairs of black pants!

One day I gotta get him into some nice deep expresso brown pants!!! Just a shade off Black...





I did take photos of the pants on him- they were all way too out of focus to put up- new camera, I forgot to change the settings on…I am kicking myself!

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Custom Made Men's Leather Pants Two

The Wedding Gown That Made History

Somebody sent me a really beautiful story in an e-mail today and I wanted to share it. Here is a link to the original story.

I teared up after reading it, as it resonates on a lot of levels about the preciousness of simple things. Love, Family, Community and so, so much more. How so much of the world has gotten so far removed from these basic things... all the scams and greed, be it housing, wall street, madoff,- take your pick. These all seem to be very visible symptoms/manifestations of a much deeper illness. I think everybody should read this story.

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The Wedding Gown That Made History

Vintage Leather

I feel overwhelmed with stuff sometimes, I collect things that are beautiful to me and inspire me.

I absorb them - very often from a technician's POV, which for me is in a big way inseparable from the aesthetic POV. I am very much into Beautiful things that Work.

Beauty, by itself is amazing, it blows me away. Beauty that works, I'm breathless, there are so many beautiful things- but when they become part of function- that inspires me,

These are two pieces that have inspired me for years. The first is an incredible Byron Lars vest from his First Spring collection.

The next is a wonderfully hand-crafted North Beach Leather jacket.

Vintage Leather

Vote for Health Freedom

It's Super important that the Health Care System in this country gets a complete overhaul.

Been eading about all the massive conflicts of interest and insane lack of oversight by the FDA on drugs and devices in the NYTs this week and sure that is just the tip of the iceburg.

It's as big a scam as the TARP that's been shoved down out throats.

Vote for Health Freedom