Leather Blooms for the Holidays...

I hope these put you in a festive mood!  Between the usual crunch of the season I managed to dig out some beautiful skins that I've been collected over the years.  These are skins that I do not have enough to make any type of garment or regular item with,  and the leather is just too special to not do something with.

We put together some pieces... all inspired by an accessory we did years ago for Patricia Field.  Here is a start.

And we are trying something new here.  Buy Now from the blog...

Flowers ship to US,  for other destinations please contact us.

Exotic Orchid Fascinator 
Only 6 available as shown.  Hand made in NYC. Petals and blades are individually wired.
 Blossom can be contoured to highlight your features.

$165.00

Rose Band
( Forget about Alice!)

This band can be made to order in any combo of 2 of roses above.
(Each piece is individually Hand made in NYC)
from left: Cherry, Jewel Purple, Black Suede, Silver Shimmer
These colors are limited editions,  and once gone- they can't be repeated...
$145.00

color

black suede/ cherry black suede/ jewel purple black suede/ silver shimmer

Solid color- please specify

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Leather Blooms for the Holidays...

Designer Abayas!

Interesting Article from Bloomberg on Harrods and Designer abayas,  even my other favorite leather designer Jean-Claude Jitrois is in on it! (Alaia & JCJ as far as their leather work, are about it...)
This is  a fabulous idea and honestly from what I can tell of the designs of these 2 sisters,  not far off from very luxurious, voluminous evening gowns,  1980's style.  They certainly don't look like what we here in the West associate with this encompassing garment,  and they are certainly a far, far cry from  burquas, which represents suppression to many people. 

I wonder what the rules are on prints, bright colors and head coverings?  The Das resort 2010 collection is very colorful and looks nothing at all like you would expect.  Very fashionable and elegant. Do they offer matching niqāb?   I would love to see the whole thing put together.

Abayas from DAS

I met a student once who was writing a thesis on full coverage Islamic dressing,  specifically burqas.  He was American of Middle Eastern decent and he dressed in a burqa,  in both the UA as well as in the USA - Middle America too, as I recall)  as part of his research.  He said he felt the whole experience was very disturbing & demeaning.  I don't know how much of this was because he was a man dressing in women's clothing in places it's strictly verboten,  the possibility of getting caught had to be quite scary.

...& uncomfortable,  since for the masses,  burqas are made of polyester - how there are not women expiring from heat stroke everyday is beyond me,  that's gotta be like wearing a full body plastic bag!

I wonder if burqas will ever become part of the "designer market" as well?

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Designer Abayas!

Custom Made in the New York Times

 In the New York Times today is a great article about custom-made clothing!

I am so excited to see an article extolling the joy and value in owning something that is truly custom made!  And it points out that custom made is often less expensive than say a designer limited edition from a boutique.  Since more of what you spend will go directly into the craftsmanship and the materials,  rather than third party mark-ups, which adds no real value to the finished piece, that is, unless you enjoy label dropping, insert Gucci, Pucci (or whatever brand) here...

It also very clearly (I think) explains the differences between actual custom made, vs. made-to-order, customized and made-to-measure. 

I just wish I was more hooked in since, had I known,  I probably could have gotten a little mention....

As it is I am thrilled that more and more people will become aware of,  and perhaps now consider having something custom-made.

addendum: I just realized I met David Colman, who wrote the article, when I had my shop in TriBeCa - jeeze I gotta get more hooked in and on top of stuff!  Seriously!

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Custom Made in the New York Times

The Real Connoisseurs

I came across this last night, on a West Coast artist's blog, I am not exactly sure how I got there, it is one of those serendipitous things I suppose. This guy does a bit of everything! comic book anime graffiti flare and then some. Thanks to Peabe for bringing these women and their work to my attention.

We Continue in the Old Style from John Rory Fraser on Vimeo.

(Update March 29, 2010  The missing video is a beautifully done and fascinating clip on Paul's Hatworks out of San Francisco.  My bad mistake not listing the details originally.  Really it's sad the video has been made private,  it's wonderful and more people should know about them.  Their blog is here.)

Hatmaking like this, in this country, is just about a lost art.  There are costume shops and individual artisans keeping it alive in fragments.  But to get a hold of an intact business like this, with all the blocks and machinery, with the intent of keeping it intact and continuing the tradition, and the techniques… well, these girl are simply HEROS to me.  BEAUTIFUL.

Everything they say regarding price, quality, longevity and their clientele is 100% on it.  I have always found men to be the real, true clientele for custom work,  the special and unique and one-of-a-kind pieces. 

Counter to what most people would expect,  Men are the true connoisseurs here.

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The Real Connoisseurs

New Rules - Consultation Fee for New Clientele

Starting October 15th, there will a $150.00 fee for New Clients for any in-person appointment for custom made leather.  (Post Updated December 9th 2009)


At the time of the initial appointment a $150.00 minimum deposit is required.  This is payable by Visa, MasterCard or cash. 

This will be applied 100% to your order of the garment under consideration, within 1 month of initial appointment only.  If you do not follow through with an order in that time frame it cannot be refunded or applied to any future orders.  This covers up to a 1 hour, in-person consultation, measurements and includes any and all additional time spent swatching leather samples, researching styles,  & all  correspondence, etc. 

All jobs started at the time of appointment require a 50% deposit.  On occasion an estimate may not be finalized at time of first appointment (due to exact fabrication or design details not being completely finalized, additional info needed from client, etc. etc.) In this case the deposit required is 50% of low end of initial estimate.  Please note I do not give "estimates" over the phone.  All I can do over the phone is give you an idea of an average price range  based only on the items that people have ordered recently. 

At this time we do not accept Amex in the studio, but we do accept it online.  So,  if you wish to pay with American Express we will send you an invoice via PayPal that is payable online (you do not need a PayPal account), at least 48 hours before the scheduled appointment.  This payment must be processed at least 24 hrs before appointment to secure your chosen time slot.

As much as I would like to continue providing free initial consultations to New and Prospective customers,  with my schedule and in consideration of ongoing projects with my current clientele it is simply no longer possible. 

This consultation fee does not apply to any current or repeat clientele. 

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New Rules - Consultation Fee for New Clientele

The Rolex Jacket has Finally Landed...

Wow, I had almost forgotten about this jacket... I wonder if the stylist even knows, it's been so long.

But it looks fantastic and I am so glad the photos finally came out!  All around a gorgeous shoot.
Thank You's go out to to a new customer for bring this to my attention,  I really appreciate it.
And Tommaso, wherever you are,  it looks amazing!  When are we gonna work together again!!!?

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The Rolex Jacket has Finally Landed...

Ready-to-Wear vs Custom-Made

Fashion Week is over here in NYC, and everywhere, the press has been full of stories on the state of the industry, the price of the clothes and how to give the industry, especially at the high end, a jolt.

Debate over price point, $800.00 for a dress is considered by some to be to “low end” for “high end” according to an interview in the NYT with Vera Wang, while Thakoon shows off $100.00 a yard fabric that he plans to use for a dress that will wind up at about 2000.00 in the stores.

Me, I think this is pretty impressive, considering he has to make that dress, pay for all the materials (There is a lot of draping this season=more fabric) & notions (trims, buttons, zippers etc) plus the highly skilled sewers needed to make something that will merit that price and then, add his markup, covering fixed and variable costs, and allowing for some profit (this should also include an allowance for buy backs & charge backs) plus carrying costs, since he will probably have to wait between 90 - 120 days to get paid. All this, for about 1/3rd of that estimated retail price.

On the other hand, in Thursdays’ style section was a feature “The Bodysuit Electric” featuring a $2300.00 ready-to-wear YSL strapless leather 1980’s style bodysuit, and all the different ways you can wear it. (Unfortunately all too 1980's derived) It is a hot, sexy garment, but why would you buy this as RTW? Even in the editorial you can see that the model will fall out of it the second she spontaneously raises an arm. A great piece, but a piece of this sort screams out to be custom-made. And when you consider the investment, it should to be custom-made.

What do you think, RTW vs Custom-Made?
Why and for what would you make the choice, or not, to go Custom-Made?

Or even Made-to-Order? (Usually an existing style, but adjusted to suit, usually within a specified size range.)

Other reads:
Wall Street Journal - various articles on Luxury
Forbes

There is a ton more out there, but my brain is a bit fried from the last week. I need a break!

Runway (!) Image Credit
There are some really fabulous photos here, Enjoy!

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Ready-to-Wear vs Custom-Made

Vintage Leather

I feel overwhelmed with stuff sometimes, I collect things that are beautiful to me and inspire me.

I absorb them - very often from a technician's POV, which for me is in a big way inseparable from the aesthetic POV. I am very much into Beautiful things that Work.

Beauty, by itself is amazing, it blows me away. Beauty that works, I'm breathless, there are so many beautiful things- but when they become part of function- that inspires me,

These are two pieces that have inspired me for years. The first is an incredible Byron Lars vest from his First Spring collection.

The next is a wonderfully hand-crafted North Beach Leather jacket.

Vintage Leather

Luxury Shoppers Anonymous

I loved this article in the NYTimes today. They make what I do seem like a sudden new, hot, and super exclusive thing.

Well, it isn't...quite. I have been working one-on-one with my customers for years, and have had events from time to time, though I prefer to keep it lo-key. The big events are a lot of fun, (and stressful and kind of manic making & once in a while, yes, I can get into it.) But really, my whole thing is that I really, really enjoy working directly with my customers.

My customers have known about this for years, and have sought me out for this personal and relaxed experience.

However, people who find me, do have to put some effort into it. Here we are - still one of the best kept secrets in NYC. (but, oddly... not in Europe)

And contradictory to the Times writer's point of view- it's not about what other people will think, it's about what my customers already know.

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Luxury Shoppers Anonymous

Hard Edged Romance in Leather

I've been super busy, we just shot a bunch of new stuff and I have been working on some different items than I am used to. Two projects entail some very hard and ridged construction, not normally what I do, but since I've started doing handbags-fascinates me. I am making a home now (more like an RV) for a little computer. The bag has really hardcore customer specifications, light in weight, good size, very specific pockets- my client wants it to hold everything she needs when flying, several changes of clothes plus computer and peripherals.

A real challenge, since something like this is very personal. I know how I like things a certain way and how many things, I always want to "fix", be it in a bag, a sleeve, a hem- whatever. So I completely get it when somebody says they've bought x # of (off-the-rack) bags, jackets- whatever, and nothing quite works.

The last couple of years, bags are so loaded down with hardware, you're already weight-lifting. Before the computer, the make-up, the paperback, the keys, the phone and god knows what else.

My whole thing- with leather- is to lighten it up.

If you didn't know, I am the antithesis of Chrome Hearts, ...fashion is hard enough without having to lug around an extra 20 lbs. (& my virtually waterproof 4.5 oz leather eco-shopping bag will be available to order next week & no that is not a typo)

So now I am working on the second bag, I will post some photos when I am done, in the
meantime here is a preview of some of the new stuff. It's kinda hard and dark and romantic all at once.













I want to thank the photographer, Phillip Wong, the model, Yana Zak, fabulous make-up artist, Sandra Downie and James Fabius for their help in getting this latest shoot together and the gorgeous results!

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----------------
Now playing: Nick Cave & Kate Bush - Where The Wild Roses Grow
via FoxyTunes

Hard Edged Romance in Leather

Iconic Punk Elvis Presley

I have been very lax in posting lately- and I have to go through my comments, but I had to post this today. I got in this afternoon and got some questions on something I'm selling on ebay- I have way too much stuff and way too little space- like everybody else in NYC and I periodically clean out my closets this way... So I listed this Iconic '70's punk t-shirt that I reworked:




Well, today when I got in I'd received this "Question" from an E-Bay member:

Q: This shirt should be burned! People who don't know anything about the king of rock n' roll design shirts like this! It is very rude to put a negative design over such an important picture from our history! Elvis was and is the only civilian to ever walk into the White house with guns! (my italics) Elvis did and is still giving to so many people! He has touched so many people with his huge giving heart! From giving money, charity, cars, houses,free tickets,jewelry, food, animals, clothing, medical care and trans. to & from, & the shirt off his back etc! There is Presley Place foundations that help people in need and also are providing help to the huricane victims so they can rebuild New Orleans. What other celebrity can you name that has done all this alive and dead? Before you sell such degrading shirts you should watch documentries on the "USS Arizona memorial in memory of Pearl Harbor" and also "Elvis meets Nixon" just to mention a few so you can get a glimps of what an amazing man Elvis was!!!

- cheyka123

It's pretty much common knowledge that Elvis was wacked out of his gourd during the time he accepted the DEA badge from Nixon, and who on earth thought it was a good idea to let anybody into the White House with a GUN? That's Special???

(Although, nowadays... I am being completely facetious here, or can't you tell?)

I must say, I was warned. You see this t-shirt has a back story. My brother wore the original to Graceland- I don't know when, I guess pretty soon after it was opened to the public. From the way he describes it he was physically hauled out of the place due to the uproar the shirt caused among the hardcore Elvis fans, who unfortunately lack any sense of humor or irony, and apparently don't get the concept of freedom of speech- or live and let live. It's not a personal attack, It's a FREEKIN t-shirt!!!

cheyka123 - please keep your child away from the loaded gun you keep in your bureau and remember your spell-check....

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----------------
Now playing: Tunng - Bullets
via FoxyTunes

Iconic Punk Elvis Presley

Summer Leather Bags

After getting sidetracked by the springbok, I finished this “Frill” bag:

White Deerskin Frill Bag

It’s inspired by a washed white deerskin suit I did (as stage wear) for a bass player who’s really, really into the iconic rock star leathers of the late 60’s and early 70’s.

Maybe I should call them "Summer of Love" bags? I am also offering the Frill Bag in black as a special order:

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Summer Leather Bags

Having an Alaia Moment

Azzedine Alaia is one of my favorite designers and I admire him as much for his attitude as his insane talent - he is well known to follow his own schedule and to hell with everyone else's.

I am prone to follow my own schedule too, sometimes due to materials (aka- I love it now!) sometimes just 'cause I feel like it. So here is my current Alaia moment(s):

purchase Jaguar Crested Bag

purchase Zebra Crested Bag

Yes, they are fur, but I wanted to get it over with. Fur is a real bitch to work with once it gets warm out and no, A/C doesn't cut is as then you get it flying.
And yes, I will be doing these bags to order after these initial pieces are sold.

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Having an Alaia Moment

Why I rarely shop

I went to a sample sale today. I rarely shop lately, since I am generally disgusted with the quality vs. the price on so many things. If I can make something I will, or I just go for something comfortable and disposable since most of the time I am getting covered in leather fuzz and glue anyway. So, anyhow, I got two very cute linen dresses by Calypso - figured what the hey @ 10 bucks a piece. (The dress was originally priced @ $285.00. & there were tons of these dresses on the last day so you have a clue) No try ons.

No wonder! I get into my studio and try them on & the elastic in the upper arm is so tight my arm goes purple in like 3 seconds! What the hell? Who the fuck is watching their production??? The upper arm elastic- when removed, measures 6 1/2 " total. That's your wrist.

The dress must of cost them about $10.00 to make, (Sri Lanka) since it appears it wasn't worth it to them to have the elastic changed once they caught the problem. The exploitation of cheap labor winds up creating so much waste. That this dress was put out at retail with this glaring problem? I guess the company doesn't care much about the product or the customer.

(Shit, my name on my label means something- am I that much of a dinosaur?)

It took about a minute to remove the elastic and do a much needed tack at the front of each dress- it will take another minute to replace the elastic when I get some. I'm happy. Now back to work.

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Why I rarely shop

Fun with Handbags

I have been busy working on a little group of limited edition & one-of-a-kind bags that I will be putting up soon, but it's taking a while because I keep getting distracted with alhttp://www.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gifl the other stuff I am doing. I came across these bags by a designer named James Piatt, out of California. I love technique they are made with, and I like the dark humor (though some of it definitely hits wrong now - I can't tell how up-to-date the site is.) Check out the "Persuader". Your cell phone becomes your ammunition. Very clever.

Tinkerbell by James Piatt

This is the bag that caught my eye, I thought it was a black cat, in the Emily vein - I guess I'm just a goth at heart.

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Fun with Handbags

Ahead of Time

Wow- I guess I am always just a little bit ahead of everything. (That’s not necessarily good for me.)

Over the last two days I’ve been inundated with links to posts on leather and leather look leggings. WWD noting that:

“Leather leggings were all the rage on the Paris streets during collections, and designers on this side of the pond are right on trend with their own versions for fall.” (Of course I am so out of the loop press wise mine aren’t featured.)

Here’s one with a selection of the WWD images (WWD’s own image functionality sucks- I can’t stand wonky slideshows, pop-ups etc. No wonder the internet sky is falling)

Yes! As I’ve noted before, leather leggings or legging cut pants are fabulous! Especially great under different layers or short dresses. The stretch lambskin I use is bonded to a heavy cotton lycra cloth that provides a great deal of shaping as well as warmth! So, even if you are not thrilled with your thighs- you can wear shorter layers than you’d expect.

I really like them with mixed layers- nothing much above crotch level. Yes, I know I’ve shot them with short tops in both my store and my site, I do need to show the whole garment. But I don’t expect them to be worn that way ! If you can, I applaud you, You’re a better woman than I (and I hate you- go for it!)

Not into leggings?- really well cut tapered pants, or very slender straight legs are always great but please, not with so much stretch in the fabric that they may as well be leggings.

My stretch leather leggings are available to order, but the various leather finishes are subject to availability, and the price will be going up as summer approaches. (I wish this weren’t the case but it’s out of my control.)

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Ahead of Time

Drats!...Knocked-Off Again!

This clipping came to me along with a really sweet note from a client of mine, Ellen Weldon. She had recognized the technique right away!

It doesn't happen often, since what I do is not that easy to copy, but in the end it’s really only a matter of time. And it is nice to see the technique I’ve been perfecting since 1999 done so well. It’s not the first variation I’ve seen, but it's definitely the nicest. I initially found it a little hard to believe it’s actually made in Switzerland, what with the way it’s priced. (Top $1750. Skirt $2300.) Especially when taking into account raw materials, the Euro, & the various markups involved when selling to Bergdorf’s, and comparable stores, etc.

But with Akris’s resources, they can utilize every bit of computerization and high tech production available, taking out as much hand labor as possible. It’s the only way it could be done, as the technique is quite tricky and definitely a couture one. Really, the quality of their line is quite beautiful.

The note card the clipping came in is gorgeous! Ellen designs and makes incredible, hand-made cards, invitations and gift packaging for events, weddings, and the like. The note card is a very heavy card stock edged in red, with a matching envelope lined in a hand-painted paper with metallic gold highlights. The envelope is embossed with her name- under the flap! It's really, really elegant.

You can't find her online. All her business is word of mouth only! Look up Ellen Weldon Designs on 5th Avenue here in NYC.

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Drats!...Knocked-Off Again!

Leather for Spring!

I am thrilled that the NYT featured leather jackets today as a big must have for Spring. I wish they done more justice with the photos. Some of these jackets look like they could be quite nice. My favorite in the print edition is the "gwyn" jacket. Although looking at the slideshow, I like the idea far more than the actual jacket, with it's simplified Rick Owens inspired shape. I also like the white Robert Rodriguez jacket. But again, it's really hard to get any idea as to how it looks on. The photo makes it look blocky and like the sleeves are big tubes. Who knows? A little more time and care should have been taken to shoot all these jackets, rather than just throwing them on a 3D hangar. Nothing ever, ever fits those things.

For myself, for Spring, I think a jacket in a washable skin would be perfect. I have a pair of cropped pants in a washable. They are out of this world and I’ve worn them to death! I've done some for clients, but not enough. I think people can't believe leather can really be washable AND dryable in a machine. But it is, and it’s fabulous!

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Leather for Spring!

Store is Up!!!

The shop section of the site is finally up! What a process! But I am thrilled and excited that it is up and working. The shopping cart software is a huge learning curve for me and I expect it to be a long and ongoing. I want to thank the designers, Joe and Erin of Transfuture. They've been great and very patient through whatever came up. (Especially the 5-6 weeks that Miva was refusing to let us login consistently (or at all).

I am now looking for some help with the internet marketing, running the store, keeping on top of this blog, etc. etc, etc.
A part time webmaster? Good with all the web and internet marketing techniques, from adwords, to adding feeds and content to this blog, creating a MySpace page above and beyond what is sitting up there now, some SEO ability. Coding a must, Fashion Background a Super Plus. I will pay a good commission on any sales the internet generates, including any new Custom clientele. I would love to hear from anyone interested.

Store is Up!!!