The State of Skins

In the last few months  I've seen a few blips in the echosphere that I found quite entertaining as well as something to think about.

I guess it was in the fall when I saw something about a leather covered Ferrari.  Cool idea,  lots of negative comments.   Regarding:  cleaning, scratching, water, etc.etc. etc.   (with a couple of smart people saying if it's leather, water shouldn't be a problem- cows live outside and get wet- no big deal-they are on it!)

foiled "leather" car

That is if it were REAL leather. Nah- it's not,  it's basically a fancy decal. and a poor one at that- weird grain, with poor and very visible repeat (ask a textile designer) even in far shots. Nice idea,  poor execution.

My fantasy is that one day they could build that prototype car that had the movable skin- remember that? Was that about 2-3 years ago?  The skin would be LEATHER...that's my fantasy. 

fantasy leather car

Stretch leather today is not quite there.  It's one way stretch and not quite enough return.  I saw stretch "leather" goods out of China a while back that stretched equally 2 ways!  (real leather does not quite do that!)  It was leather - but weirdly re-constituted.  The effect was that of Cher's face -no offense to Cher - but we are talking leather here- so what I want is REAL.  Maybe 15 years ago I saw a US (Washington State?) tannery making washable  skins that could stretch like that, if you ordered that finish.  No Lycra backing, Where are they now???

I hate to think of the chemicals and effort that went into creating that weird leather perfection from China.  But I guess if I were into weird leather perfection,  I'd be into latex.

...my fetish, my talisman is cut.

The State of Skins

Wonder Woman Obsession

I am fascinated with the obsession over Wonder Woman's new costume.  While it's been years since I've been involved in the comics world,  mainstream or otherwise,  I am a big fan of Kaz and years ago did costumes for live appearances and book covers of many of Frank Thorne's characters.  From Ghita of Alizarr,   to Lann s2ex,   to Danger Rangerette,  as well as Red Sonja,  (hey, what on earth happened to that movie?) a character Frank took on after Barry Windsor Smith. - (Disclaimer; my sister is in many of the photos on this last link- & one day I may even post good scans!)  Actually, come to think of it,  the whole comic book thing may be the beginning of my decent into leather!

Do those leggings have a "mom" rise?

There's been some great debate going on about the new WW costume with tons of wild & great takes on it posted in various forums.   From Fan Art to Fashionistas,  the debate this has stirred up is inspiring.  Plus,  looking at all the permutations the costume has taken over the years,  is a lot of fun.

My favorite variation of the re-design, (at least the one that I could locate today) is this one,

I've looked everywhere for my real favorite, but there is no way to search these forums by images... so I can't post it here :(  realized I will probably never find it again... Someone closed up the neckline,  killed the jacket and got rid of the carpal casts, in favor of something...sleek & dangerous looking.  I believe they added boots,  something to break up that unrelenting black.   They also tweeked the belt /lasso- it just all worked much, much better as a take on this design.

My own take is either commit & cut the top LOW or commit and make her TOUGH and sexy,  I think if you have a body like this (or whoever they will cast in the movie) - skin tight ought to cover it.   I am thrilled that they thought to put her in leather,  but  a bad 1980's cropped biker jacket?  Why not the hair to go with it?  I am very happy they dumped the silly star-spangled briefs and super red boot combo.  But I think they completely wimped out in a lot of respects.  

And, in spite of all protestations on the various forums otherwise, (for practicality's sake, no less...huh?... for a comic book character?)  I think she needs some sharp, super high heeled wedge boots, either over the knee or maybe 3- 4 inches above the ankle, but fitted.  No gappy ankles & not the clunky shaped wedge, more like the curvaceous YSL wedge from maybe 2002- 2003.  Tough and sleek,  none of this middle of the road stuff,  she's Wonder Woman!

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Wonder Woman Obsession

Perfect Skins

People always ask what I make in leather, and my answer is... everything! I think "leather" is still oddly stuck on either "outerwear" or "fetish" wear in most people's minds when it comes up as a specific fabrication. And, I decided to focus on leather because I like the restraint :) it gives me. Like many artists I work best with a tightly defined goal or project, so I chose leather as my medium. I do work in other fabrics, but not here.   After all why would I need to? Look at just some of the things that can be done with skins... Please Turn The Sound DOWN - Or OFF!  My Apologies.

This video is of my last production collection, showing examples of work done in hand painted leather, laser cut leathers, distressed leathers, leather with hand-cut work and lacing, woven leather, reversible leather and fur, and stretch leather. As well as the leather & textile fabrications that are exclusive to BehrleNYC. Variations of many of these items can be custom-made.

Perfect Skins

Vintage Leather

I feel overwhelmed with stuff sometimes, I collect things that are beautiful to me and inspire me.

I absorb them - very often from a technician's POV, which for me is in a big way inseparable from the aesthetic POV. I am very much into Beautiful things that Work.

Beauty, by itself is amazing, it blows me away. Beauty that works, I'm breathless, there are so many beautiful things- but when they become part of function- that inspires me,

These are two pieces that have inspired me for years. The first is an incredible Byron Lars vest from his First Spring collection.

The next is a wonderfully hand-crafted North Beach Leather jacket.

Vintage Leather

Hard Edged Romance in Leather

I've been super busy, we just shot a bunch of new stuff and I have been working on some different items than I am used to. Two projects entail some very hard and ridged construction, not normally what I do, but since I've started doing handbags-fascinates me. I am making a home now (more like an RV) for a little computer. The bag has really hardcore customer specifications, light in weight, good size, very specific pockets- my client wants it to hold everything she needs when flying, several changes of clothes plus computer and peripherals.

A real challenge, since something like this is very personal. I know how I like things a certain way and how many things, I always want to "fix", be it in a bag, a sleeve, a hem- whatever. So I completely get it when somebody says they've bought x # of (off-the-rack) bags, jackets- whatever, and nothing quite works.

The last couple of years, bags are so loaded down with hardware, you're already weight-lifting. Before the computer, the make-up, the paperback, the keys, the phone and god knows what else.

My whole thing- with leather- is to lighten it up.

If you didn't know, I am the antithesis of Chrome Hearts, ...fashion is hard enough without having to lug around an extra 20 lbs. (& my virtually waterproof 4.5 oz leather eco-shopping bag will be available to order next week & no that is not a typo)

So now I am working on the second bag, I will post some photos when I am done, in the
meantime here is a preview of some of the new stuff. It's kinda hard and dark and romantic all at once.













I want to thank the photographer, Phillip Wong, the model, Yana Zak, fabulous make-up artist, Sandra Downie and James Fabius for their help in getting this latest shoot together and the gorgeous results!

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----------------
Now playing: Nick Cave & Kate Bush - Where The Wild Roses Grow
via FoxyTunes

Hard Edged Romance in Leather

Fun with Handbags

I have been busy working on a little group of limited edition & one-of-a-kind bags that I will be putting up soon, but it's taking a while because I keep getting distracted with alhttp://www.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gifl the other stuff I am doing. I came across these bags by a designer named James Piatt, out of California. I love technique they are made with, and I like the dark humor (though some of it definitely hits wrong now - I can't tell how up-to-date the site is.) Check out the "Persuader". Your cell phone becomes your ammunition. Very clever.

Tinkerbell by James Piatt

This is the bag that caught my eye, I thought it was a black cat, in the Emily vein - I guess I'm just a goth at heart.

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Fun with Handbags

Drats!...Knocked-Off Again!

This clipping came to me along with a really sweet note from a client of mine, Ellen Weldon. She had recognized the technique right away!

It doesn't happen often, since what I do is not that easy to copy, but in the end it’s really only a matter of time. And it is nice to see the technique I’ve been perfecting since 1999 done so well. It’s not the first variation I’ve seen, but it's definitely the nicest. I initially found it a little hard to believe it’s actually made in Switzerland, what with the way it’s priced. (Top $1750. Skirt $2300.) Especially when taking into account raw materials, the Euro, & the various markups involved when selling to Bergdorf’s, and comparable stores, etc.

But with Akris’s resources, they can utilize every bit of computerization and high tech production available, taking out as much hand labor as possible. It’s the only way it could be done, as the technique is quite tricky and definitely a couture one. Really, the quality of their line is quite beautiful.

The note card the clipping came in is gorgeous! Ellen designs and makes incredible, hand-made cards, invitations and gift packaging for events, weddings, and the like. The note card is a very heavy card stock edged in red, with a matching envelope lined in a hand-painted paper with metallic gold highlights. The envelope is embossed with her name- under the flap! It's really, really elegant.

You can't find her online. All her business is word of mouth only! Look up Ellen Weldon Designs on 5th Avenue here in NYC.

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Drats!...Knocked-Off Again!

Mutton Chops

I LOVE the title of this story out of Sydney, and I agree whole-heartedly.
I never got how hitting 30 seemed to become the cut off date for a new pair of leather pants. During one 2 month period, I made 60+ pairs of custom and special order pants and I’d say close to 40 of them were for women frantic to get a pair before they turned 30! The rest were for some of the most amazingly stylish, self-confident & beautifully secure women I have ever met. All between 45-65. Hey, 30 is just the start! Kudos to all of you!

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Mutton Chops