Showing posts with label Serious Stuff. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Serious Stuff. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Designer Abayas!

Interesting Article from Bloomberg on Harrods and Designer abayas,  even my other favorite leather designer Jean-Claude Jitrois is in on it! (Alaia & JCJ as far as their leather work, are about it...)
This is  a fabulous idea and honestly from what I can tell of the designs of these 2 sisters,  not far off from very luxurious, voluminous evening gowns,  1980's style.  They certainly don't look like what we here in the West associate with this encompassing garment,  and they are certainly a far, far cry from  burquas, which represents suppression to many people. 

I wonder what the rules are on prints, bright colors and head coverings?  The Das resort 2010 collection is very colorful and looks nothing at all like you would expect.  Very fashionable and elegant. Do they offer matching niqāb?   I would love to see the whole thing put together.


Abayas from DAS

I met a student once who was writing a thesis on full coverage Islamic dressing,  specifically burqas.  He was American of Middle Eastern decent and he dressed in a burqa,  in both the UA as well as in the USA - Middle America too, as I recall)  as part of his research.  He said he felt the whole experience was very disturbing & demeaning.  I don't know how much of this was because he was a man dressing in women's clothing in places it's strictly verboten,  the possibility of getting caught had to be quite scary.

...& uncomfortable,  since for the masses,  burqas are made of polyester - how there are not women expiring from heat stroke everyday is beyond me,  that's gotta be like wearing a full body plastic bag!

I wonder if burqas will ever become part of the "designer market" as well?


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Friday, May 14, 2010

Dissappointed, Angry & Disgusted...

I am so absolutely sickened by the news that just continues to get worse and worse surrounding the oil spill.  It makes my head spin and my gut go cold.  Reading today,  how the government agency that was supposed to police and approve permits,  instead just enables & allows outright the outright flaunting of any and all regulations and allows drilling without proper approval & permits - ignoring and abusing their own scientists' research and recommendations to set it up so we...all Americans,  get it up right 
the rear for the sake of oil. 

Then some dumbA Alaskan Senatornamed Lisa Murkowski blocks the bill to raise the liability 
cap on the oil companies clean up bill...
To borrow the other dumbA's  (What the heck is it with Alaska?) phrase,  perhaps a truly deserving  "target" list should be set up to encompass the oil companies, the oil rig owners, Haliburtan, Transocean,  the M.M.S. (which sounds like it should be shut down and investigated immediately.) and bozos like Lisa Murkowski.

Sorry for the rant,  but when the heck are we gonna revolt???

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Thursday, January 28, 2010

What is Good Design?

This subject has come up repeatedly over the past few months as I have been informally helping a friend navigate their way thought the complex and confusing morass of getting a website designed & made.

Having lived through (an ongoing process btw) a ton of trial and error scenarios, massive amounts of research and even taking a basic (pretty darn hardcore, to me!) html class, since my site first went up. A dear friend, asked me what to look for in a designer & what was important in a site, and what to look out for.

I hoped to help him avoid some of the pitfalls.

He went through the seeking a designer process - nightmarish in itself, especially when you are a creative person talking a different language to an often purely technical person who thinks they are a "designer". This was very difficult as my friend is a highly creative person, but seriously clueless when it comes to anything, and I mean anything technical. Basic explanation of SEO, html, code, analytics, etc - he sorta gets it but....

However, one thing that he got, and got immediately was the fact that the site had to be searchable and indexed on Google. It is his business after all.

He falls in love with an incredibly visual designers work. It's Flash of course, I tell him no flash, or only a little. The designer explains it's fairly a new "searchable" Flash. And sends along tons of documentation and very detailed explanations of how it works. I look into it, my friend looks into it and lo! sure enough it is a searchable form of flash. We check out other sites using this and they do come up in search. Tons of questions to designer (and more research on our end) mostly regarding HOW searchable. Repeatedly the answer is it's searchable AND deep linkable. WOW!

He goes with this designer, it's an information heavy site, He's writing his text with key words, search text etc, etc. Everytime he's on the phone with the designer search and accessibility comes up at least 3 times, every e-mail it's re-iterated. OVER AND OVER & OVER AGAIN.

After 3-4 months, of a ton of work on the "designers" end (obviously,the guy worked hard) for my friend (hair pulling and something akin giving birth), as well some loss of respect on my part, because I do not like repeating myself, ad nauseam, because of a serious intransigence on the part of my friend against organization, writing things down, looking them up or even making the effort to try and think out and extrapolate from what he has already learned. So I feel a bit abused for my efforts on this count, but it's over now. Thank God.

So anyhow, Site goes up, site is gorgeous. Two months later, 2 hits on actual site. Friend wants to punch a wall (In lieu of designer) and so do I. Site is DEAD IN WATER and UNSEARCHABLE. Other Gaia Framework sites we see on web are infinitesimally searchable and indexed on google, JUST EXACTLY AS DESIGNER INSISTED THIS ONE WOULD BE. WHERE IN ALL THIS DID DESIGNER NOT HEAR, READ AND UNDERSTAND THE CLIENTS UTMOST NEED?

THIS IS NOT GOOD DESIGN it is a ART PROJECT. The "designer", from a highly regarded IT school (specializing in web "design") was not was taught even the basic premise of GOOD DESIGN! Neither of us feel it was a scam, or intentional on the "so called" designer's part, but a complete F*%k up on "designer's" part. But now my friend has to wait several months for it to be corrected????

Design, must also function. It is not divorced from whatever practicalities and needs brought it into existence. Design is also commerce. A house no one can live in is not a house.

Years ago I knew another fashion "designer", who was asked by a store to design them some special mannequins for display. She was super creative and the perfect flighty airy "designer" type that people get so enthralled with at times. She kept her project under complete wraps, designed and had custom-made several 10' tall, to-scale, articulated mannequins. Surprise! She actually got them to the shop and set up in the window, before it dawned on her...

Design is different from Art. ART is approached consciously as such and is not beholden to function. ART usually becomes becomes commerce after the fact. Art needs no function beyond it's existence. DESIGN serves a FUNCTION and is usually created in Pursuit of that function, whatever it may be. Design embraces and makes use of technology and craftsmanship with an understanding of both aesthetics and use. Design makes the ordinary extraordinary, it can makes the mundane a joy. Design brings ART into the everyday world and is accessible to everyone.

DESIGN bears a burden. Whether that be to make someone look fabulous & feel great through fashion. Or to create a beautiful AND FUNCTIONAL web page, that people will SEE.


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Friday, November 27, 2009

Black Friday Events


Relax, chill & digest your food, nothing is going anywhere.  Enjoy your life and what's really important. 
Don't believe the hype.


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Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Schmatta, when things were Made in the USA, in NYC.

A friend of mine in San Diego Just sent me this link to this HBO Special and I completely missed it! (Doh!)  So I will be going home tonight to watch it before tomorrow's Rally at the Big Button & Needle Statue.  Thank You Jean for bringing this to may attention.  (I love TV On-Demand)


I started spending a lot of time in the garment center when I was doing costumes as a kid. I'd come in from NJ to get supplies and at one point I was assisting one of my teachers from my costume design classes.  He was working on "The Devil and Miss Jones 2" (Funny Story, but for another day). 

He was on 18th street, so it was between the Garment Center and 14th Street to get supplies.  He always wanted me to go to 14th street, which I HATED with a passion.  Yes, 14th Street was closer but it took 10 times longer to find anything,  scrounging through the filthy & dinky discount shops that made up 14th street at the time.

Meanwhile, up in the Garment center you could get Everything and Anything you ever needed, for any kind of sewn project, no matter how unusual, specialized or bizarre.  You only had to duck the guys pushing their carts as opposed to dealing with the skeevy souk-like atmosphere that ruled 14th street at the time.  It was amazing, crowded, vibrant and inspiring all at the same time.  We need it back.


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Tuesday, October 13, 2009

New Rules - Consultation Fee for New Clientele



Starting October 15th, there will a $150.00 fee for New Clients for any in-person appointment for custom made leather.  (Post Updated December 9th 2009)


At the time of the initial appointment a $150.00 minimum deposit is required.  This is payable by Visa, MasterCard or cash. 


This will be applied 100% to your order of the garment under consideration, within 1 month of initial appointment only.  If you do not follow through with an order in that time frame it cannot be refunded or applied to any future orders.  This covers up to a 1 hour, in-person consultation, measurements and includes any and all additional time spent swatching leather samples, researching styles,  & all  correspondence, etc. 

All jobs started at the time of appointment require a 50% deposit.  On occasion an estimate may not be finalized at time of first appointment (due to exact fabrication or design details not being completely finalized, additional info needed from client, etc. etc.) In this case the deposit required is 50% of low end of initial estimate.  Please note I do not give "estimates" over the phone.  All I can do over the phone is give you an idea of an average price range  based only on the items that people have ordered recently. 


At this time we do not accept Amex in the studio, but we do accept it online.  So,  if you wish to pay with American Express we will send you an invoice via PayPal that is payable online (you do not need a PayPal account), at least 48 hours before the scheduled appointment.  This payment must be processed at least 24 hrs before appointment to secure your chosen time slot.

As much as I would like to continue providing free initial consultations to New and Prospective customers,  with my schedule and in consideration of ongoing projects with my current clientele it is simply no longer possible. 


This consultation fee does not apply to any current or repeat clientele. 



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Monday, October 12, 2009

Correction!!!- Save the Garment Center October 21st

Reposting  because  I am sooo freeking DYSLEXIC.... It's not the 12th it's the 21st of October!!!!
Be there,  Please.  (I did enter it in my calender correctly at least!)


save-the-garment-center-logo

Just got notice of this Rally this in my mailbox and I hope to see tons of people at Noon on October 21th at 39th Street and 7th Avenue, under the Big Button Statue.  For more info go here.

An addendum:

This is from my dear friend Carolyn Kostopolous, owner of Carelli Costumes (and NO do not call them about Halloween, they ONLY do Broadway and are understandably sick of the phone calls this time of year. ) She says it much better than I do.

“I have to say, I'm not sure what the point is.  Obviously, I believe the country and, more specifically, the city should have a viable manufacturing  / crafts base- clothes, furniture, food, anything tangible.  as a nation, we don't make anything anymore- just a bunchof overpaid suits who sit in front of computer screens and trade information.  if they could do anything with their hands, they mightbe happy fulfilled people and not need to make unconscionable sums of money for nothing.

However, at some point you have to realize that the garment district is gone in all but name.  Even if you lowered rents or stopped residential development, which might be all but stopped now due to the recession, but the people, the workers who had the skill to sewall that stuff are all retired, moved or dead.

Angelo said much the same thing to me when Obama was elected.  He said "Ok, what difference is that going to make?  You don't produce anything in this country and you haven't for years.  It's not like all the capable people are sitting around waiting for jobs to open up.  Those people have moved on."

But I do think it's worth a fight.  We have to get people making things again.  Who will replace me?  Or you?  You can't learn what we know on the internet or in a two year course.

And once the economy becomes based more on real things rather than mere information, and I think it has to, the only people who will survive are those who can actually make something.”


We have to keep manufacturing and all the support businesses in Manhattan.  This city,  this country cannot afford to just toss out and ghetto- ize buisnesses that are providing REAL  JOBS  that support REAL & SKILLED workers.  We cannot afford to put all our eggs into the unrealistic and now proven delusory fantasy that is Wall Street  & the so called "market".  Whose market?  Unlike Shakespeare, in this case, "thinking" be it on paper or via some quant's computer model,  doesn't make it so.
We need to keep these skilled and specialty jobs in Manhattan. We need to keep these skilled jobs in this country, period.

Because, no matter what many people may think, to be able to sew and make clothing is a skill not to be taken lightly.  Think about it,  it is one of the skills,  that given an apocalyptic situation would be needed right up there with food and building shelter.


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Save the Garment Center Rally October 12th

Correction, the date is OCTOBER 21st !!! see NEW POST

save-the-garment-center-logo

Just got notice of this Rally this in my mailbox and I hope to see tons of people at Noon on October 12th  Correction October 21st at 39th Street and 7th Avenue, under the Big Button Statue.  For more info go here.

We have to keep manufacturing and all the support businesses in Manhattan.  This city,  this country cannot afford to just toss out and ghetto- ize buisnesses that are providing REAL  JOBS  that support REAL & SKILLED workers.  We cannot afford to put all our eggs into the unrealistic and now proven delusory fantasy that is Wall Street  & the so called "market".  Whose market?  Unlike Shakespeare, in this case, "thinking" be it on paper or via some quant's computer model,  doesn't make it so.
We need to keep these skilled and specialty jobs in Manhattan. We need to keep these skilled jobs in this country, period.

Because, no matter what many people may think, to be able to sew and make clothing is a skill not to be taken lightly.  Think about it,  it is one of the skills,  that given an apocalyptic situation would be needed right up there with food and building shelter.


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Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Ephemeral and Eternal

The view this evening:

9-11-memorial-lights-01

9-11-memorial-lights-02

9-11-memorial-lights-03

9-11-memorial-lights-05

9-11-skyline

It is beyond my ability to describe the feelings that fill my heart when I see these lights. They are simply, to me, the most beautiful and fitting memorial to all who died on 9/11/01 and to all who have fought for us and all who have died since.

The Skyline is like a hazy glimmer of what could be the best in us. A once and future dream if you will. I hope we will reach it.



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Sunday, February 1, 2009

The Wedding Gown That Made History

Somebody sent me a really beautiful story in an e-mail today and I wanted to share it. Here is a link to the original story.

I teared up after reading it, as it resonates on a lot of levels about the preciousness of simple things. Love, Family, Community and so, so much more. How so much of the world has gotten so far removed from these basic things... all the scams and greed, be it housing, wall street, madoff,- take your pick. These all seem to be very visible symptoms/manifestations of a much deeper illness. I think everybody should read this story.

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Thursday, January 15, 2009

Vote for Health Freedom

It's Super important that the Health Care System in this country gets a complete overhaul.

Been eading about all the massive conflicts of interest and insane lack of oversight by the FDA on drugs and devices in the NYTs this week and sure that is just the tip of the iceburg.

It's as big a scam as the TARP that's been shoved down out throats.


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Saturday, May 31, 2008

Lost Colony of the Amazon

amazon-lodge-1947

I’ve wanted to put up some these photos I am scanning for Diego, so, with your permission
D, here they are…

These photos were taken during a Amazon expedition led by Tibor Sekelj, in the late 1940’s, in 1947 or 1948.

Sekelj, was an explorer, writer/journalist, ethnographer and esperantist. He was a contemporary of Thor Heyerdahl , but I think is mainly known in Europe.

tibor-mary-croc
Diego, whose mother is wrestling the crocodile with Tibor, has a small collection of these photos, some which were published in Tibor’s books, but all the reproduction I’ve seen is very poor.

Diego also has some of the items seen in the photos, like the long radiant feather headdress, on the left in the photo below. Also some of weavings, earrings, a woven wrap and even a contraceptive cap carved out of some sort of nut or shell! The weavings in particular are very interesting and have held up well. Many of the adornment items are very aural, made with bits of hanging shell that jingle together at the slightest movement.

amazon-feathered-headdresses-1947
tattooed-woman-1947
amazon-beauty-1947
amazon-llamas-1947
amazon-warrior-1947
I can’t imagine the beauty in reality and I figure that these people and their life style were lost long ago. I find these images especially beautiful and evocative and I wanted to put some of them up.

I Love You Diego!

For more on these photos and artifacts,please contact me, and I will put you in touch with Diego.

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Thursday, April 17, 2008

He'll take Dubai

I got a good belly laugh this morning when I saw this article on Derek Khan, former stylist/ jewel thief to the "Stars", in the style section of the NYT! Ha! Very funny, PT Barnum was never so right!

I had the bizarre experience of working with this guy when he was working with Lauryn Hill. I could say I was lucky to not have been ripped off by him. But come on, when a stylist (or anybody for that matter) goes on and on about how (insert boldfaced name here) pays them $10,000.00 plus a day and flies them around for personals etc., and in the next sentence complains that what they want so desperately to purchase from you is too expensive... is that not a tip-off?

lauren-hill-in-leatherIt was odd- I was introduced to Lauryn Hill and went to her home for fittings, and couldn't figure out why they were working with Derek. She and all the people I met were exceedingly genuine, nice and all very,very serious about their work, no BS here. Derek Khan, while he can be charming and all, is a consummate and frankly bald faced bullshitter. I kinda had him figured as cheap entertainment. How could you not take this guy with a massive mountain of salt?

Seems they had no patience with him either since almost immediately Derek was out of the picture & the next I hear of him is the jewelery debacle. Laughed then too.

Dubai can have him and Hof Jewellery is likely being taken for a ride, have fun! Wait- don't they do lashing, cut off hands and other hardcore punishment in that country? Maybe it'll work.

Damn!

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----------------
Now playing: New Order - World in Motion
via FoxyTunes

lousy Polaroid courtesy of Derek Khan!

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Thursday, February 21, 2008

Made in Italy...NOT!

Thank you LA Times, for printing this article. "Made in Italy" isn’t always.

Italy is allowed to use that label on finished goods brought in from other countries, including those they then export.

The big names have gotten great quality finished leather garments for years out of Slovakia. (Very, very, good quality workmanship coming out of Slovakia) I looked into it at one point, the quantities were not too onerous for a small company, but I would have had to label the product “Made in Slovakia”. BIG difference, No?

Slovakia is probably feeling it now too, the pressure to compete with the unbelievably cheap labor out of China. Guess what's gonna happen when China has ALL the manufacturing, everywhere...


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Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Subprime Explained


just a small digression...now, if only they will explain how the dollars drop in value will help sell more American made goods (to Americans?) - since they are so much cheaper now.
If it is made here, the raw materials more than likely aren't. (like mine, which are all out of Europe)

Prices go up.

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