Dreaming

I saw Blondie the other nite- and I'm thinking about that song... and here I want to...I am dreaming of  creating  a couple jobs - no, scratch that- more than a couple.  I want to build a high end manufacturing company,  here- in the USA- in NYC to be specific.  I want to employ skilled labor, and even more importantly TRAIN skilled labor.  That is my dream.  I am not interested in competing with China - why even go there? There are much, much better places to go.

Having (mis)placed our hopes (and too many eggs) into the Financial industries, what has come of it?  What has been produced?  What goods? What Productive jobs?  Practical services? Any actual ability?  (Besides pushing numbers around?)  Can they build this?  Or anyhing?

 So, while dreaming is free - giving up the dream is not...

Dreaming

Whose side are they on?

I met with a prospective intern Friday. They came to me on their own to see if we could do a credit internship. Their school is one of the big Fashion schools here in NYC, the so called "Fashion Capital of the World". The school did not direct them to me, since they requested an internship opportunity that would provide them with "hands on" experience. Apparently- the school basically told them - you're on your own since "nobody does that" anymore.

When you have an "industry" school completely discounting an entire class of independent & entrepreneurial and skill-based businesses in this city and beyond we are in a very, very sad state. Fashion is not all Illustrator croquis that you can punch up, mix and match and send to China with a spec sheet. I feel this is very misguided, and shows a real lack of support for these businesses and local industry as a whole.

Nobody does that anymore? Perhaps they mean Carlos Falchi,  Koos Van Den Akker, and many others?

Have they seen Etsy? All the smaller makers, creating unique and limited edition items at all price ranges. All the buzz on Brooklyn Designers? Not to mention all small makers from everywhere else in the world. Because of Etsy there is a new and nascent class of local, hand-made and specialty production businesses. EVERYWHERE. Turning out an amazing range of beautiful jewelry, (more on that later) clothing, corsetry, leather work, furniture, you name it. This is a whole new world, and it is not just people working at their kitchen tables.

The WSJ notes here that the biggest growth in the Luxury market is coming not from "the rich", but from "the Aspirationals" & "Newcomers".

I think a lot of this is also because people, across the board are sick of disappointing purchases. They want things they can enjoy for more than a single seasonal (or laundry) cycle. If it means spending more, -fine- in the end it lasts longer and is a much more satisfying -and personal- purchase.

It is up to us to support local, independent & entrepreneurial and skill-based businesses. Here in NYC, in Brooklyn or wherever you are.

Whose side are they on?

High End Hanging by a Thread?

foto courtesy of flickr (creative commons license)

I was fascinated to read this article in the NYTimes last nite,  Is Italy Too Italian?.   It really just scratches the surface on a bunch of conundrums faced by specialized makers in Italy and elsewhere.  

For years Italy has had no real rules as far as country of origin goes on garment labels. As far as I have know items sold in Italy could be sewn in Slovenia yet marked   "Made in Italy"  this was very often the case with leather garments.  I've been approached by these same makers for production. Their minimums were not too high & the workmanship is incredible, yet I'd have to bring in garments labeled "Made in Slovakia" so I never entertained the idea. 

Prada and other companies based in Italy can label it "Made in Italy" even if all that is done in Italy is sewing on the buttons.  (This loophole somehow enabled A/X to have production made in prisons some years back.)  Ok, so there's one conundrum.  I feel for Mr. Barbera here as he is battered by this loophole already,  and still will be when the new law they are talking about goes into affect.

Then when I read the average cost per yard of Mr. Barbera's wools being $48.75 a yard,  it seemed very reasonable to me, since the rock bottom per yard equivalent when converted to leather winds up being about 1.5 times that & based on the average goods we use (ie: the stuff people order the most of) it becomes closer to 2 times that range.

While they do some vertical manufacturing,  and have their own collection of suits, it's definitely not a "fashion" line, (the styles chosen for Times slideshow do seem particularly outdated, why?)  which has got to be hurting some.   I also wonder how many distributors and mark-ups this wool goes through on it's way to becoming a finished piece with other companies?  The debt the NYTs notes cannot be entirely due to the guilds? Or can it?  That seems horrific and I kind wish they went a little deeper here- do their accounts pay in a timely fashion or is it slow death by aging?  Is it something else? Why isn't a company like this treated like a national treasure?

Carlos Barbera wool must be incredible.  The whole description of how the wool is treated,  it's truly an artisanal product.  I'd love to get to work with it one day.  I sincerely hope the tradition is not "Finito"  it would be a very bad thing,  and not just for Italy.  It is a form of art,  the knowledge,  the care and passion involved in creating something so special as this wool, that without chemicals or additives beyond it's "spa" time becomes a 'performance' fabric.

We needs purists like this.  We need quality like this.  Sure, it's not for everybody, but why should it  be?

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High End Hanging by a Thread?

Bearskins vs Stella McCartney

 I do admire Stella McCartney for sticking to her guns and being in the position to make some real impact.  However,  I don't admire the pushing of petroleum products that have a half-life of 50,000 plus years in a landfill.  I don't like the idea of bears (or any animal) being killed only for their fur,  but that is not the case here as the bears are culled for population control in Canada, which has a highly regulated fur industry.  

 photo of real Bearskin hats from Telegraph UK 2008 announcing contest for alternative bearskin

I expect these  bearskin (hats) when well taken care of,  last at least 10-15 years  and probably a great deal longer.  I would not be at all surprised if one guard has one hat, that lasts the entire lifetime of his career and is then handed down as a treasured family keepsake.  I don't imaging they are needing to make a gazillion of them either.

I have found PETA and it's like to be highly hypocritical over the years.  From the disrespectful open pit burials it promoted  & "gave" for old fur coats that could have been used to keep living people and  animals warm.  Yes, they did eventually figure that one out (first by adding coffins- took longer for the rest) but I think more as a result of bad press than reality.  They don't ever seem to take into account the damage of synthetic petrol based good that are inundating the world's landfills.  I know there are all sorts of hi-tech finishes that can make polyester microfibers "absorbent" but those are  chemical additions and "finishes".   (Think  surface,  faux,  temporary, and mostly,  chemical.)  Add to that the sheer volume of synthetics on the market, as well as  how long it actually lasts in real usage,  a month?  6 months?  A year?  On top of this we have such well informed fashion sites like Refinery 29 and Fashionista with their writers who have touted such a creature as "Organic Nylon".  ARRRGGH! 

For sure,  leather is not a blameless material, (almost nothing is any more)  from GM cotton on up.  But, from my perspective it's the waste involved in so much of manufacturing that is an even bigger issue.  Making thousands of units - that critical mass you need to keep the wheels greased today & make the shelves look full.  OMGod forbid, if Macy's and their ilk do not have their racks at 180% full of synth crap at all times,  you'd think we'd all drop dead! (... that is, if the polyester fumes on the 2nd floor on 34th street weren't enough to knock you down first!)

This is (very wrongly, I think) called the "economy of scale".  Anyone who has taken a serious old school business course knows that this economy of scale eventually collapses under its own weight.  It costs more and more to continue growing it & the arc flattens out.  Now we know that arc is not just a profit arc and  it is costing us all a whole lot more than just money.

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Bearskins vs Stella McCartney

Schmatta, when things were Made in the USA, in NYC.

A friend of mine in San Diego Just sent me this link to this HBO Special and I completely missed it! (Doh!)  So I will be going home tonight to watch it before tomorrow's Rally at the Big Button & Needle Statue.  Thank You Jean for bringing this to may attention.  (I love TV On-Demand)

I started spending a lot of time in the garment center when I was doing costumes as a kid. I'd come in from NJ to get supplies and at one point I was assisting one of my teachers from my costume design classes.  He was working on "The Devil and Miss Jones 2" (Funny Story, but for another day). 

He was on 18th street, so it was between the Garment Center and 14th Street to get supplies.  He always wanted me to go to 14th street, which I HATED with a passion.  Yes, 14th Street was closer but it took 10 times longer to find anything,  scrounging through the filthy & dinky discount shops that made up 14th street at the time.

Meanwhile, up in the Garment center you could get Everything and Anything you ever needed, for any kind of sewn project, no matter how unusual, specialized or bizarre.  You only had to duck the guys pushing their carts as opposed to dealing with the skeevy souk-like atmosphere that ruled 14th street at the time.  It was amazing, crowded, vibrant and inspiring all at the same time.  We need it back.

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Schmatta, when things were Made in the USA, in NYC.

Correction!!!- Save the Garment Center October 21st

Reposting  because  I am sooo freeking DYSLEXIC.... It's not the 12th it's the 21st of October!!!!
Be there,  Please.  (I did enter it in my calender correctly at least!)

Just got notice of this Rally this in my mailbox and I hope to see tons of people at Noon on October 21th at 39th Street and 7th Avenue, under the Big Button Statue.  For more info go here.

An addendum:

This is from my dear friend Carolyn Kostopolous, owner of Carelli Costumes (and NO do not call them about Halloween, they ONLY do Broadway and are understandably sick of the phone calls this time of year. ) She says it much better than I do.

“I have to say, I'm not sure what the point is.  Obviously, I believe the country and, more specifically, the city should have a viable manufacturing  / crafts base- clothes, furniture, food, anything tangible.  as a nation, we don't make anything anymore- just a bunchof overpaid suits who sit in front of computer screens and trade information.  if they could do anything with their hands, they mightbe happy fulfilled people and not need to make unconscionable sums of money for nothing.

However, at some point you have to realize that the garment district is gone in all but name.  Even if you lowered rents or stopped residential development, which might be all but stopped now due to the recession, but the people, the workers who had the skill to sewall that stuff are all retired, moved or dead.

Angelo said much the same thing to me when Obama was elected.  He said "Ok, what difference is that going to make?  You don't produce anything in this country and you haven't for years.  It's not like all the capable people are sitting around waiting for jobs to open up.  Those people have moved on."

But I do think it's worth a fight.  We have to get people making things again.  Who will replace me?  Or you?  You can't learn what we know on the internet or in a two year course.

And once the economy becomes based more on real things rather than mere information, and I think it has to, the only people who will survive are those who can actually make something.”

We have to keep manufacturing and all the support businesses in Manhattan.  This city,  this country cannot afford to just toss out and ghetto- ize buisnesses that are providing REAL  JOBS  that support REAL & SKILLED workers.  We cannot afford to put all our eggs into the unrealistic and now proven delusory fantasy that is Wall Street  & the so called "market".  Whose market?  Unlike Shakespeare, in this case, "thinking" be it on paper or via some quant's computer model,  doesn't make it so.

We need to keep these skilled and specialty jobs in Manhattan. We need to keep these skilled jobs in this country, period.

Because, no matter what many people may think, to be able to sew and make clothing is a skill not to be taken lightly.  Think about it,  it is one of the skills,  that given an apocalyptic situation would be needed right up there with food and building shelter.

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Correction!!!- Save the Garment Center October 21st

Save the Garment Center Rally October 12th

Correction, the date is OCTOBER 21st !!! see NEW POST

Just got notice of this Rally this in my mailbox and I hope to see tons of people at Noon on October 12th  Correction October 21st at 39th Street and 7th Avenue, under the Big Button Statue.  For more info go here.

We have to keep manufacturing and all the support businesses in Manhattan.  This city,  this country cannot afford to just toss out and ghetto- ize buisnesses that are providing REAL  JOBS  that support REAL & SKILLED workers.  We cannot afford to put all our eggs into the unrealistic and now proven delusory fantasy that is Wall Street  & the so called "market".  Whose market?  Unlike Shakespeare, in this case, "thinking" be it on paper or via some quant's computer model,  doesn't make it so.

We need to keep these skilled and specialty jobs in Manhattan. We need to keep these skilled jobs in this country, period.

Because, no matter what many people may think, to be able to sew and make clothing is a skill not to be taken lightly.  Think about it,  it is one of the skills,  that given an apocalyptic situation would be needed right up there with food and building shelter.

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Save the Garment Center Rally October 12th

Ready-to-Wear vs Custom-Made

Fashion Week is over here in NYC, and everywhere, the press has been full of stories on the state of the industry, the price of the clothes and how to give the industry, especially at the high end, a jolt.

Debate over price point, $800.00 for a dress is considered by some to be to “low end” for “high end” according to an interview in the NYT with Vera Wang, while Thakoon shows off $100.00 a yard fabric that he plans to use for a dress that will wind up at about 2000.00 in the stores.

Me, I think this is pretty impressive, considering he has to make that dress, pay for all the materials (There is a lot of draping this season=more fabric) & notions (trims, buttons, zippers etc) plus the highly skilled sewers needed to make something that will merit that price and then, add his markup, covering fixed and variable costs, and allowing for some profit (this should also include an allowance for buy backs & charge backs) plus carrying costs, since he will probably have to wait between 90 - 120 days to get paid. All this, for about 1/3rd of that estimated retail price.

On the other hand, in Thursdays’ style section was a feature “The Bodysuit Electric” featuring a $2300.00 ready-to-wear YSL strapless leather 1980’s style bodysuit, and all the different ways you can wear it. (Unfortunately all too 1980's derived) It is a hot, sexy garment, but why would you buy this as RTW? Even in the editorial you can see that the model will fall out of it the second she spontaneously raises an arm. A great piece, but a piece of this sort screams out to be custom-made. And when you consider the investment, it should to be custom-made.

What do you think, RTW vs Custom-Made?
Why and for what would you make the choice, or not, to go Custom-Made?

Or even Made-to-Order? (Usually an existing style, but adjusted to suit, usually within a specified size range.)

Other reads:
Wall Street Journal - various articles on Luxury
Forbes

There is a ton more out there, but my brain is a bit fried from the last week. I need a break!

Runway (!) Image Credit
There are some really fabulous photos here, Enjoy!

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Ready-to-Wear vs Custom-Made

Wilson's Leather Out of Business?

I must have missed something.

Wilson's was still in business???? That Company should have been put out of it's misery years ago. Seems that for the last 15 years or so it's been one of the most mis-managed, poorly merchandised, directionless retail outlet concepts out there. To go from being one of the largest retailers in the country... (how they did that I guess was by being everything to everybody - good idea!- that worked!)

Every single re-invention over that time was incredibly ill-conceived, poorly executed and just plain wishy-washy. No point-of-view whatsoever. The merchandise always left me scratching my head, sub-par in quality, styling and fit- It's looked like a car crash for ever. Nobody behind the wheel.

I'd hate to express this with regards to an "American" company, but we all know Wilson's hadn't manufactured anything in this country in years so...

Thank you for pulling the plug.

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----------------
Now playing: Jonny Greenwood - Future Markets
via FoxyTunes

Wilson's Leather Out of Business?

Why I rarely shop

I went to a sample sale today. I rarely shop lately, since I am generally disgusted with the quality vs. the price on so many things. If I can make something I will, or I just go for something comfortable and disposable since most of the time I am getting covered in leather fuzz and glue anyway. So, anyhow, I got two very cute linen dresses by Calypso - figured what the hey @ 10 bucks a piece. (The dress was originally priced @ $285.00. & there were tons of these dresses on the last day so you have a clue) No try ons.

No wonder! I get into my studio and try them on & the elastic in the upper arm is so tight my arm goes purple in like 3 seconds! What the hell? Who the fuck is watching their production??? The upper arm elastic- when removed, measures 6 1/2 " total. That's your wrist.

The dress must of cost them about $10.00 to make, (Sri Lanka) since it appears it wasn't worth it to them to have the elastic changed once they caught the problem. The exploitation of cheap labor winds up creating so much waste. That this dress was put out at retail with this glaring problem? I guess the company doesn't care much about the product or the customer.

(Shit, my name on my label means something- am I that much of a dinosaur?)

It took about a minute to remove the elastic and do a much needed tack at the front of each dress- it will take another minute to replace the elastic when I get some. I'm happy. Now back to work.

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Why I rarely shop

Made in Italy...NOT!

Thank you LA Times, for printing this article. "Made in Italy" isn’t always.

Italy is allowed to use that label on finished goods brought in from other countries, including those they then export.

The big names have gotten great quality finished leather garments for years out of Slovakia. (Very, very, good quality workmanship coming out of Slovakia) I looked into it at one point, the quantities were not too onerous for a small company, but I would have had to label the product “Made in Slovakia”. BIG difference, No?

Slovakia is probably feeling it now too, the pressure to compete with the unbelievably cheap labor out of China. Guess what's gonna happen when China has ALL the manufacturing, everywhere...

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Made in Italy...NOT!

Subprime Explained

just a small digression...now, if only they will explain how the dollars drop in value will help sell more American made goods (to Americans?) - since they are so much cheaper now.
If it is made here, the raw materials more than likely aren't. (like mine, which are all out of Europe)

Prices go up.

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Subprime Explained

Fashion Evolution

Recently, I subscribed to a feed of Fashion-Incubator.com. It is a fascinating site for anyone involved with, or just interested in the business of fashion. A recent post on the site was titled "Slow Fashion" which immediately drew my attention, ("slow food" is a big interest of mine and I had not heard the term applied to fashion before) It relates very strongly to the custom made business and while specifically mentioning men's fashion, I do think it's crossing over into women's. My female client tend to order more classic items than men. My male customers go for more individualistic items. (Is this just me? Has anybody else noticed this?)

Maybe it feels a little safer with the rapid changes in women's fashion from season to season, but I feel it is changing. When I was manufacturing, I noticed that a cutting edge style could have a 2+ year run. It took that time, I think, for the eye to get used to a new look. Starting on the coasts and working it's way into the center of the country, I'd run styles (as long as I could still get the leather) and do great with them. Fashion historically has always been an evolution and I feel many new ideas and silhouettes are done a great disservice nowadays by the push to change so completely every season.

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Fashion Evolution