Leather Luddite at Heart

I am exhausted, one project, in particular has been very challenging, lots of tiny pieces and very unique construction,
(I will post pix asap)

I really like to concentrate and put my undivided attention into my work, even if it's just for a short stretch, I feel so much better when I am able to do that and for some reason tiny pieces get me flustered, distracted and I need super extra super ,super sharp concentration. Not easy when you are doing a bunch of stuff at once.

So, I basically put all computer stuff aside when I need to do concrete, physical,work, product.

I can really get into all this computer & internet stuff (way, way too much, being the obsessive Virgo that I am (same birthday as Amy Winehouse-?!?) but it's not my thing at all.

There's that tactile thing, I will never , ever, get over that. I am obsessed with it, flatness becoming 3-d. Thought solidified.

Something to touch, feel, smell, wear , get-out-of -the-house-in. get-out -of-suburbia-in.

Images, dreams, visions and shadow becoming reality.

This is just the germ of my love hate relationship with the computer.

btw, the project came out great! We are both thrilled with it!

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Leather Luddite at Heart

Lost Colony of the Amazon

I’ve wanted to put up some these photos I am scanning for Diego, so, with your permission
D, here they are…

These photos were taken during a Amazon expedition led by Tibor Sekelj, in the late 1940’s, in 1947 or 1948.

Sekelj, was an explorer, writer/journalist, ethnographer and esperantist. He was a contemporary of Thor Heyerdahl , but I think is mainly known in Europe.


Diego, whose mother is wrestling the crocodile with Tibor, has a small collection of these photos, some which were published in Tibor’s books, but all the reproduction I’ve seen is very poor.

Diego also has some of the items seen in the photos, like the long radiant feather headdress, on the left in the photo below. Also some of weavings, earrings, a woven wrap and even a contraceptive cap carved out of some sort of nut or shell! The weavings in particular are very interesting and have held up well. Many of the adornment items are very aural, made with bits of hanging shell that jingle together at the slightest movement.






I can’t imagine the beauty in reality and I figure that these people and their life style were lost long ago. I find these images especially beautiful and evocative and I wanted to put some of them up.

I Love You Diego!

For more on these photos and artifacts,please contact me, and I will put you in touch with Diego.

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Lost Colony of the Amazon

The Lost Colony, recreated

Here's an interesting link to more on the re-building of the costumes for "the Lost Colony".

Yes the Queen's costume is like a car, not only in cost (a luxury model I would guess), but in it's dimensions! And I believe the actress wearing it is quite petite! Imagine a 5'1", 100 lb woman encased in a Smart car!

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Now playing: Gogol Bordello - Illumination
via FoxyTunes

The Lost Colony, recreated

"The Lost Colony" Costumes

I had meant to add to my couture and costume post over a week ago, so better late than never.
The costumes were for an incredibly long running production out of North Carolina called
"The Lost Colony" and are designed by William Ivey Long.

It's a very funny coincidence that I happened to have a program from The Lost Colony's second year in production. My Mom saw it as a child and loved it. She'd kept the program pristinely all these years! Here are some images from that program:

And here are some more photos of the new costumes which are replacing costumes lost in a fire last year:






Some finished Dresses:


I want to thank my friend Karin for these beautiful costume photos.

I am very behind on a ton of stuff, all of it computer related. Everything basically stops when I have projects. So only when I get a decent break or am waiting for an appointment and have stuff prepped, am I able to stay on top of this. I would love some help with this, so I'm putting it out there for any of you with ideas and/or suggestions.

I will be posting some more VERY amazing "Lost Colony" photos soon. Never, ever, before seen photos from the Amazon Jungle, circa 1947 or 1948. Some really gorgeous tribal life images.

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Now playing: The Elysian Fields - Bayonne
via FoxyTunes

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"The Lost Colony" Costumes

Haute Couture in the USA

Haute Couture in the USA does exist, but not where you'd expect. From time to time I help out at a costume shop owned by a woman I've know since I was 16, when we met because of our mutual love of the costume arts. It's a great refresher for me, and brings me back to my roots, and my first love, the art & discipline of the craft. Her shop turns out true haute couture, there is absolutely nothing else you could call it, it's really astounding. The main difference is the that the work is expected to last for years under daily and rigorous wear, repeated cleaning, alterations and god knows what other abuse. And of course she does not have access to Lesage embroideries. But at this rate who cares! Here are some photos:




When this costume was up on the mannequin, Hugh, who directed it's creation came upstairs to announce it. Only about 3/4 of the upstairs shop came running downstairs with cameras out, "just like a bunch of Japanese tourists" my friend Karin, (above- taking aim) said, and it was true. There was a mob - jockeying for position! I will post more on this over the weekend, this was the most amazing series of pieces to see come to life. The shop is brilliant!

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Haute Couture in the USA

Summer Leather Bags

After getting sidetracked by the springbok, I finished this “Frill” bag:

White Deerskin Frill Bag

It’s inspired by a washed white deerskin suit I did (as stage wear) for a bass player who’s really, really into the iconic rock star leathers of the late 60’s and early 70’s.

Maybe I should call them "Summer of Love" bags? I am also offering the Frill Bag in black as a special order:

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Summer Leather Bags

Having an Alaia Moment

Azzedine Alaia is one of my favorite designers and I admire him as much for his attitude as his insane talent - he is well known to follow his own schedule and to hell with everyone else's.

I am prone to follow my own schedule too, sometimes due to materials (aka- I love it now!) sometimes just 'cause I feel like it. So here is my current Alaia moment(s):

purchase Jaguar Crested Bag

purchase Zebra Crested Bag

Yes, they are fur, but I wanted to get it over with. Fur is a real bitch to work with once it gets warm out and no, A/C doesn't cut is as then you get it flying.
And yes, I will be doing these bags to order after these initial pieces are sold.

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Having an Alaia Moment

He'll take Dubai

I got a good belly laugh this morning when I saw this article on Derek Khan, former stylist/ jewel thief to the "Stars", in the style section of the NYT! Ha! Very funny, PT Barnum was never so right!

I had the bizarre experience of working with this guy when he was working with Lauryn Hill. I could say I was lucky to not have been ripped off by him. But come on, when a stylist (or anybody for that matter) goes on and on about how (insert boldfaced name here) pays them $10,000.00 plus a day and flies them around for personals etc., and in the next sentence complains that what they want so desperately to purchase from you is too expensive... is that not a tip-off?

It was odd- I was introduced to Lauryn Hill and went to her home for fittings, and couldn't figure out why they were working with Derek. She and all the people I met were exceedingly genuine, nice and all very,very serious about their work, no BS here. Derek Khan, while he can be charming and all, is a consummate and frankly bald faced bullshitter. I kinda had him figured as cheap entertainment. How could you not take this guy with a massive mountain of salt?

Seems they had no patience with him either since almost immediately Derek was out of the picture & the next I hear of him is the jewelery debacle. Laughed then too.

Dubai can have him and Hof Jewellery is likely being taken for a ride, have fun! Wait- don't they do lashing, cut off hands and other hardcore punishment in that country? Maybe it'll work.

Damn!

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Now playing: New Order - World in Motion
via FoxyTunes

lousy Polaroid courtesy of Derek Khan!

He'll take Dubai

Why I rarely shop

I went to a sample sale today. I rarely shop lately, since I am generally disgusted with the quality vs. the price on so many things. If I can make something I will, or I just go for something comfortable and disposable since most of the time I am getting covered in leather fuzz and glue anyway. So, anyhow, I got two very cute linen dresses by Calypso - figured what the hey @ 10 bucks a piece. (The dress was originally priced @ $285.00. & there were tons of these dresses on the last day so you have a clue) No try ons.

No wonder! I get into my studio and try them on & the elastic in the upper arm is so tight my arm goes purple in like 3 seconds! What the hell? Who the fuck is watching their production??? The upper arm elastic- when removed, measures 6 1/2 " total. That's your wrist.

The dress must of cost them about $10.00 to make, (Sri Lanka) since it appears it wasn't worth it to them to have the elastic changed once they caught the problem. The exploitation of cheap labor winds up creating so much waste. That this dress was put out at retail with this glaring problem? I guess the company doesn't care much about the product or the customer.

(Shit, my name on my label means something- am I that much of a dinosaur?)

It took about a minute to remove the elastic and do a much needed tack at the front of each dress- it will take another minute to replace the elastic when I get some. I'm happy. Now back to work.

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Why I rarely shop

Fun with Handbags

I have been busy working on a little group of limited edition & one-of-a-kind bags that I will be putting up soon, but it's taking a while because I keep getting distracted with alhttp://www.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gifl the other stuff I am doing. I came across these bags by a designer named James Piatt, out of California. I love technique they are made with, and I like the dark humor (though some of it definitely hits wrong now - I can't tell how up-to-date the site is.) Check out the "Persuader". Your cell phone becomes your ammunition. Very clever.

Tinkerbell by James Piatt

This is the bag that caught my eye, I thought it was a black cat, in the Emily vein - I guess I'm just a goth at heart.

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Fun with Handbags

Ahead of Time

Wow- I guess I am always just a little bit ahead of everything. (That’s not necessarily good for me.)

Over the last two days I’ve been inundated with links to posts on leather and leather look leggings. WWD noting that:

“Leather leggings were all the rage on the Paris streets during collections, and designers on this side of the pond are right on trend with their own versions for fall.” (Of course I am so out of the loop press wise mine aren’t featured.)

Here’s one with a selection of the WWD images (WWD’s own image functionality sucks- I can’t stand wonky slideshows, pop-ups etc. No wonder the internet sky is falling)

Yes! As I’ve noted before, leather leggings or legging cut pants are fabulous! Especially great under different layers or short dresses. The stretch lambskin I use is bonded to a heavy cotton lycra cloth that provides a great deal of shaping as well as warmth! So, even if you are not thrilled with your thighs- you can wear shorter layers than you’d expect.

I really like them with mixed layers- nothing much above crotch level. Yes, I know I’ve shot them with short tops in both my store and my site, I do need to show the whole garment. But I don’t expect them to be worn that way ! If you can, I applaud you, You’re a better woman than I (and I hate you- go for it!)

Not into leggings?- really well cut tapered pants, or very slender straight legs are always great but please, not with so much stretch in the fabric that they may as well be leggings.

My stretch leather leggings are available to order, but the various leather finishes are subject to availability, and the price will be going up as summer approaches. (I wish this weren’t the case but it’s out of my control.)

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Ahead of Time

Drats!...Knocked-Off Again!

This clipping came to me along with a really sweet note from a client of mine, Ellen Weldon. She had recognized the technique right away!

It doesn't happen often, since what I do is not that easy to copy, but in the end it’s really only a matter of time. And it is nice to see the technique I’ve been perfecting since 1999 done so well. It’s not the first variation I’ve seen, but it's definitely the nicest. I initially found it a little hard to believe it’s actually made in Switzerland, what with the way it’s priced. (Top $1750. Skirt $2300.) Especially when taking into account raw materials, the Euro, & the various markups involved when selling to Bergdorf’s, and comparable stores, etc.

But with Akris’s resources, they can utilize every bit of computerization and high tech production available, taking out as much hand labor as possible. It’s the only way it could be done, as the technique is quite tricky and definitely a couture one. Really, the quality of their line is quite beautiful.

The note card the clipping came in is gorgeous! Ellen designs and makes incredible, hand-made cards, invitations and gift packaging for events, weddings, and the like. The note card is a very heavy card stock edged in red, with a matching envelope lined in a hand-painted paper with metallic gold highlights. The envelope is embossed with her name- under the flap! It's really, really elegant.

You can't find her online. All her business is word of mouth only! Look up Ellen Weldon Designs on 5th Avenue here in NYC.

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Drats!...Knocked-Off Again!

Custom Made and Hairy Situations

This article just came to my attention via F-I and I’m surprised I missed it.

I think it’s great that actual custom made, bespoke or whatever you’re going to call it, or at least something close to it is getting some attention & may become easier to find.

Clothes actually made-to-measure. I am thrilled that younger guys are becoming aware that there are options besides jeans and ill-fitting OTR suits. It can only grow awareness across the board.

But... “Any idiot can run a tape measurer around you,” Hello? I really hope this was a typo.

That quote just sucks so much. Besides the obnoxious tone, it only highlights the speaker’s ignorance as to what it is they are claiming to do. I'd certainly hope he’s not the idiot with the tape.

Next, I don’t watch Project Runway as a matter of course, but when I came across this excellent post I had to see what the fuss was about.

So I checked out the PR entries as well as Tim Gunn’s comments, which show a real bias against both the hair and Chris’s costume design background. It is a good reminder as to how stuck in rut the industry mentality can be. All too often everything winds up safe, safe, safe, for the powers that be. Then, invariably, the refrain “There’s nothing new” when sales & styles aren't up to expectations. Beats me.

I agree completely with the writer that the use of human hair should have been a non-issue, as well as a lot of other points made, and I love reading something written by someone with a background in fashion history. It’s a real treat.

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Custom Made and Hairy Situations

Leather & Evening Wear

I recently completed this dress for a fabulous client of mine, Rini B. & I’m thrilled she’s gotten nothing but complements in it! It looks amazing on her and was a challenging project for me. It is very low cut in back, but remains decent! This is an example the "couture" quality workmanship and techniques I love to do when I can.

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Leather & Evening Wear

Slum Lady Jane-Fashion Icon

I love to hear how “Baby” Jane Holzer is such an Icon of Fashion.
This from WWD;

Oh, Baby!
Baby Jane Holzer, that is. She was one of the inspirations for John Galliano's very pretty fall collection for Christian Dior, which skillfully mixed glamour and restraint. The big hair and ladylike accessories were all part of the fun. Here, a look that would have delighted Holzer in the Sixties, a flared fur coat,
worn with short leather gloves and a top-handle bag.

She was also one of the worst slumlords of the Lower East Side, pre- gentrification. I know, I lived in one of her buildings. Where, on the first of every month the “managing agent” this skeevy, little, gimpy guy named Jesse, along with a big, (I mean huge!) “maintenance” guy, would come through the building knocking on doors to collect the rent - with Baseball Bats!

One night I left the building, which had a permanently installed dealer, that no amount of tenant & police complaints could dislodge, (he was useful, kept in place to keep turnover high) at Norfolk and Stanton, to go visit a friend uptown. A taxi that was driving past on Stanton did the sharpest K turn ever to meet me as I walked to the corner and the driver stuck his head out the window... “Get In, I’ll take you where ever you need to go- no charge, you shouldn’t be walking around here.” He was a young white guy and knew the building I’d come out of, which was why he stopped. Turned out he’d lived with his girlfriend a few blocks further East in another Holzer drug building. They’d come home from a matinee one afternoon only to see a 12 year old neighbor’s brains get blown out right in front of them - in the middle of the afternoon!

They’d begged Baby Jane (who still wore her hair in the above pictured bouffant, rather un-successfully, I might add) to move them into one of her “nice” i.e.: dealer free buildings, above Houston. (In my in building we'd all been paying illegally inflated rents & eventually went on rent strike) But, No Go. They were afraid for their lives! A kid had been murdered 2 feet away from them! They were only able to get a relocation after they’d threatened to go public with her slum lady lord activities below Houston. Did the trick!
Such a Fashion Icon....

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Slum Lady Jane-Fashion Icon