Custom Made Wedding Bodice-part 2

First the fun part  of re-doing the front foundation.  (PITA) I go back to the drawing board to my first instinctual direction (doh!)

Re-cut and re-trace one front panel and trace all the boning points.  Using a piece of the stretch silk I apply it to the twill along the boning marks.  Because of the stretch I don't need to worry about adding room- or perfect stitching.   I use a rough cut piece & trim it later.

Because of the chiffon I do have to worry about the fabric shredding if boning isn't pushed through carefully.  This stuff is sharp!  I lightly melt the edges of the boning,  being very careful not to allow carbon buildup.  Which has potential to be ugly & messy at all times.  (At least no bleeding yet,  which is a given.  I don"t think it counts if you don't bleed on it at some point!)

Then the crossways boning, using what is really the wrong size twill tape (because its here) I make casings over the applied boning- it will be inside, under several layers.  Slip in the boning & trim.  This layer is the lining,  as well as the foundation.

 I'm a little off here,  but it ain't leather - I have not worked in fabric in years- not like this!

 Now no puckering or buckling inside when curving with the body.

Sew the straps to the front bodice:

And layout the lace:

Here I am using a medallion from the center of the tablecloth.  Centering & mirroring as well as possible,  the cloth is not symmetrical,  at all.   Overall it is several inches off.  Still amazing  being entirely stitched by hand and washed a bunch.   I eye it.

The center of the cloth was the most stained.  I cut around this where possible,  not too concerned.  The stains add to the depth of the cloth,  I may spray parts of it with some tea when it is done. Depends.

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Custom Made Wedding Bodice-part 2

The Lost Colony, recreated

Here's an interesting link to more on the re-building of the costumes for "the Lost Colony".

Yes the Queen's costume is like a car, not only in cost (a luxury model I would guess), but in it's dimensions! And I believe the actress wearing it is quite petite! Imagine a 5'1", 100 lb woman encased in a Smart car!

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Now playing: Gogol Bordello - Illumination
via FoxyTunes

The Lost Colony, recreated

"The Lost Colony" Costumes

I had meant to add to my couture and costume post over a week ago, so better late than never.
The costumes were for an incredibly long running production out of North Carolina called
"The Lost Colony" and are designed by William Ivey Long.

It's a very funny coincidence that I happened to have a program from The Lost Colony's second year in production. My Mom saw it as a child and loved it. She'd kept the program pristinely all these years! Here are some images from that program:

And here are some more photos of the new costumes which are replacing costumes lost in a fire last year:






Some finished Dresses:


I want to thank my friend Karin for these beautiful costume photos.

I am very behind on a ton of stuff, all of it computer related. Everything basically stops when I have projects. So only when I get a decent break or am waiting for an appointment and have stuff prepped, am I able to stay on top of this. I would love some help with this, so I'm putting it out there for any of you with ideas and/or suggestions.

I will be posting some more VERY amazing "Lost Colony" photos soon. Never, ever, before seen photos from the Amazon Jungle, circa 1947 or 1948. Some really gorgeous tribal life images.

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Now playing: The Elysian Fields - Bayonne
via FoxyTunes

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"The Lost Colony" Costumes

Haute Couture in the USA

Haute Couture in the USA does exist, but not where you'd expect. From time to time I help out at a costume shop owned by a woman I've know since I was 16, when we met because of our mutual love of the costume arts. It's a great refresher for me, and brings me back to my roots, and my first love, the art & discipline of the craft. Her shop turns out true haute couture, there is absolutely nothing else you could call it, it's really astounding. The main difference is the that the work is expected to last for years under daily and rigorous wear, repeated cleaning, alterations and god knows what other abuse. And of course she does not have access to Lesage embroideries. But at this rate who cares! Here are some photos:




When this costume was up on the mannequin, Hugh, who directed it's creation came upstairs to announce it. Only about 3/4 of the upstairs shop came running downstairs with cameras out, "just like a bunch of Japanese tourists" my friend Karin, (above- taking aim) said, and it was true. There was a mob - jockeying for position! I will post more on this over the weekend, this was the most amazing series of pieces to see come to life. The shop is brilliant!

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Haute Couture in the USA

Leather and Other Art

Angelo Filomeno, an astounding artist working in silk & thread primarily, told me about an artist who’s work I had to see.
I finally got to look her up & it is the artist, who years ago- having seen one tiny, grainy black and white photo of her work, pretty much launched my fascination with all things leather.
… I will never forget that photo, the black leather head encased in leather and spiraling zippers that looked as if they might actually unzip like a peel, fascinated me. For ages, I obsessed over how a 3D piece like that might be made actually functional, without any molding- just the leather and zippers. (I love construction puzzles) I think it really informed my obsession with both leather and Fit. I could’t find images that particular head any where, but here you will find an interview with Nancy Grossman.

The Third Mind" Palais de Tokyo, Paris

Now I must plug Angelo, he is an artist of the highest caliber. He "paints" (for lack of a better word) with embroidery. The scale and detail of his work is awe inspiring. And if you got a look at the process he goes through to create these incredible tableaux, they become even more incredible. I have never seen a photograph that can do justice to the work. You must see it in person. He was a featured artist in the Venice Biennale this summer, and I was very lucky to get to see the work in progress.

My Love Sings When the Flower is Near (The Philosopher and the Woman), Angelo Filomeno 2007

For an idea of scale, these skeletons are at least life sized. The canvas is 13 feet high. This is the kind of detail he gets...with an old, completely hand-guided, industrial Singer embroidery machine. If you had any idea the kind of work this entails. Needless to say he does it all himself- no farming out of the work. You must see it in person.

Cold (detail) Angelo Filomeno

Here is more of his work. He is represented by Galerie LeLong

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Leather and Other Art