Haute Couture in the USA does exist, but not where you'd expect. From time to time I help out at a costume shop owned by a woman I've know since I was 16, when we met because of our mutual love of the costume arts. It's a great refresher for me, and brings me back to my roots, and my first love, the art & discipline of the craft. Her shop turns out true haute couture, there is absolutely nothing else you could call it, it's really astounding. The main difference is the that the work is expected to last for years under daily and rigorous wear, repeated cleaning, alterations and god knows what other abuse. And of course she does not have access to Lesage embroideries. But at this rate who cares! Here are some photos:
When this costume was up on the mannequin, Hugh, who directed it's creation came upstairs to announce it. Only about 3/4 of the upstairs shop came running downstairs with cameras out, "just like a bunch of Japanese tourists" my friend Karin, (above- taking aim) said, and it was true. There was a mob - jockeying for position! I will post more on this over the weekend, this was the most amazing series of pieces to see come to life. The shop is brilliant!
Friday, May 9, 2008
Haute Couture in the USA
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Summer Leather Bags
It’s inspired by a washed white deerskin suit I did (as stage wear) for a bass player who’s really, really into the iconic rock star leathers of the late 60’s and early 70’s.
Add to Technorati Favorites
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Having an Alaia Moment
Azzedine Alaia is one of my favorite designers and I admire him as much for his attitude as his insane talent - he is well known to follow his own schedule and to hell with everyone else's.
And yes, I will be doing these bags to order after these initial pieces are sold.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
He'll take Dubai
I had the bizarre experience of working with this guy when he was working with Lauryn Hill. I could say I was lucky to not have been ripped off by him. But come on, when a stylist (or anybody for that matter) goes on and on about how (insert boldfaced name here) pays them $10,000.00 plus a day and flies them around for personals etc., and in the next sentence complains that what they want so desperately to purchase from you is too expensive... is that not a tip-off?
It was odd- I was introduced to Lauryn Hill and went to her home for fittings, and couldn't figure out why they were working with Derek. She and all the people I met were exceedingly genuine, nice and all very,very serious about their work, no BS here. Derek Khan, while he can be charming and all, is a consummate and frankly bald faced bullshitter. I kinda had him figured as cheap entertainment. How could you not take this guy with a massive mountain of salt?Seems they had no patience with him either since almost immediately Derek was out of the picture & the next I hear of him is the jewelery debacle. Laughed then too.
Dubai can have him and Hof Jewellery is likely being taken for a ride, have fun! Wait- don't they do lashing, cut off hands and other hardcore punishment in that country? Maybe it'll work.
Damn!
Digg
----------------
Now playing: New Order - World in Motion
via FoxyTunes
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Why I rarely shop
No wonder! I get into my studio and try them on & the elastic in the upper arm is so tight my arm goes purple in like 3 seconds! What the hell? Who the fuck is watching their production??? The upper arm elastic- when removed, measures 6 1/2 " total. That's your wrist.
The dress must of cost them about $10.00 to make, (Sri Lanka) since it appears it wasn't worth it to them to have the elastic changed once they caught the problem. The exploitation of cheap labor winds up creating so much waste. That this dress was put out at retail with this glaring problem? I guess the company doesn't care much about the product or the customer.
(Shit, my name on my label means something- am I that much of a dinosaur?)
It took about a minute to remove the elastic and do a much needed tack at the front of each dress- it will take another minute to replace the elastic when I get some. I'm happy. Now back to work.
Add to Technorati Favorites
Saturday, March 29, 2008
Fun with Handbags
Tinkerbell by James Piatt
Friday, March 21, 2008
Ahead of Time
Wow- I guess I am always just a little bit ahead of everything. (That’s not necessarily good for me.)Over the last two days I’ve been inundated with links to posts on leather and leather look leggings. WWD noting that:
“Leather leggings were all the rage on the Paris streets during collections, and designers on this side of the pond are right on trend with their own versions for fall.” (Of course I am so out of the loop press wise mine aren’t featured.)
Here’s
Yes! As I’ve noted
I really like them with mixed layers- nothing much above crotch level. Yes, I know I’ve shot them with short tops in both my store and my site, I do need to show the whole garment. But I don’t expect them to be worn that way ! If you can, I applaud you, You’re a better woman than I (and I hate you- go for it!)
Not into leggings?- really well cut tapered pants, or very slender straight legs are always great but please, not with so much stretch in the fabric that they may as well be leggings.
My stretch leather leggings are available to
Monday, March 17, 2008
Drats!...Knocked-Off Again!
This clipping came to me along with a really sweet note from a client of mine, Ellen Weldon. She had recognized the technique right away!
It doesn't happen often, since what I do is not that easy to copy, but in the end it’s really only a matter of time. And it is nice to see the technique I’ve been perfecting since 1999 done so well. It’s not the first variation I’ve seen, but it's definitely the nicest. I initially found it a little hard to believe it’s actually made in Switzerland, what with the way it’s priced. (Top $1750. Skirt $2300.) Especially when taking into account raw materials, the Euro, & the various markups involved when selling to Bergdorf’s, and comparable stores, etc.
But with Akris’s resources, they can utilize every bit of computerization and high tech production available, taking out as much hand labor as possible. It’s the only way it could be done, as the technique is quite tricky and definitely a couture one. Really, the quality of their line is quite beautiful.
Monday, March 3, 2008
Custom Made and Hairy Situations
I think it’s great that actual custom made, bespoke or whatever you’re going to call it, or at least something close to it is getting some attention & may become easier to find.
Clothes actually made-to-measure. I am thrilled that younger guys are becoming aware that there are options besides jeans and ill-fitting OTR suits. It can only grow awareness across the board.
But... “Any idiot can run a tape measurer around you,” Hello? I really hope this was a typo.
That quote just sucks so much. Besides the obnoxious tone, it only highlights the speaker’s ignorance as to what it is they are claiming to do. I'd certainly hope he’s not the idiot with the tape.
Next, I don’t watch Project Runway as a matter of course, but when I came across this excellent post I had to see what the fuss was about.
So I checked out the PR entries as well as Tim Gunn’s comments, which show a real bias against both the hair and Chris’s costume design background. It is a good reminder as to how stuck in rut the industry mentality can be. All too often everything winds up safe, safe, safe, for the powers that be. Then, invariably, the refrain “There’s nothing new” when sales & styles aren't up to expectations. Beats me.
I agree completely with the writer that the use of human hair should have been a non-issue, as well as a lot of other points made, and I love reading something written by someone with a background in fashion history. It’s a real treat.
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Leather & Evening Wear
Slum Lady Jane-Fashion Icon
I love to hear how “Baby” Jane Holzer is such an Icon of Fashion.
This from WWD;
Oh, Baby!
Baby Jane Holzer, that is. She was one of the inspirations for John Galliano's very pretty fall collection for Christian Dior, which skillfully mixed glamour and restraint. The big hair and ladylike accessories were all part of the fun. Here, a look that would have delighted Holzer in the Sixties, a flared fur coat,
worn with short leather gloves and a top-handle bag.
One night I left the building, which had a permanently installed dealer, that no amount of tenant & police complaints could dislodge, (he was useful, kept in place to keep turnover high) at Norfolk and Stanton, to go visit a friend uptown. A taxi that was driving past on Stanton did the sharpest K turn ever to meet me as I walked to the corner and the driver stuck his head out the window... “Get In, I’ll take you where ever you need to go- no charge, you shouldn’t be walking around here.” He was a young white guy and knew the building I’d come out of, which was why he stopped. Turned out he’d lived with his girlfriend a few blocks further East in another Holzer drug building. They’d come home from a matinee one afternoon only to see a 12 year old neighbor’s brains get blown out right in front of them - in the middle of the afternoon!
They’d begged Baby Jane (who still wore her hair in the above pictured bouffant, rather un-successfully, I might add) to move them into one of her “nice” i.e.: dealer free buildings, above Houston. (In my in building we'd all been paying illegally inflated rents & eventually went on rent strike) But, No Go. They were afraid for their lives! A kid had been murdered 2 feet away from them! They were only able to get a relocation after they’d threatened to go public with her slum lady lord activities below Houston. Did the trick!
Such a Fashion Icon....
Monday, February 25, 2008
Two cents...!
Had fun watching the Oscars, but I can't believe how quickly those who didn't tow the line and dress according to some PR/media flak/company marketing plan got Trashed. Come on!
Marion Cotillard looked amazing! I just don't get the petty, meanness of some of the comments I read. And god forbid if you dress to highlight your own tastes and personality. I LOVED what Diablo Cody wore, it suited her perfectly and the earrings were kick-ass. Yes, the slit should've been closed off some so she wasn't nervously checking it when she went on up stage, but cheeky underwear would've worked too!
Tilda's dress was intriguing, and I got why she picked it. It worked in theory, not in practice. It was a difficult dress. and it looked she had to keep her right arm permanently bent at the elbow....(or what, I wonder?) She has an amazing face, her skin is astoundingly beautiful, and I loved that she appeared barren of make-up. The dress did highlight this, which may have been the point. So, Go Tilda!
Friday, February 22, 2008
Mutton Chops
I LOVE the title of this story out of Sydney, and I agree whole-heartedly.
I never got how hitting 30 seemed to become the cut off date for a new pair of leather pants. During one 2 month period, I made 60+ pairs of custom and special order pants and I’d say close to 40 of them were for women frantic to get a pair before they turned 30! The rest were for some of the most amazingly stylish, self-confident & beautifully secure women I have ever met. All between 45-65. Hey, 30 is just the start! Kudos to all of you!
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Made in Italy...NOT!
Thank you LA Times, for printing this article. "Made in Italy" isn’t always.
Italy is allowed to use that label on finished goods brought in from other countries, including those they then export.
The big names have gotten great quality finished leather garments for years out of Slovakia. (Very, very, good quality workmanship coming out of Slovakia) I looked into it at one point, the quantities were not too onerous for a small company, but I would have had to label the product “Made in Slovakia”. BIG difference, No?
Slovakia is probably feeling it now too, the pressure to compete with the unbelievably cheap labor out of China. Guess what's gonna happen when China has ALL the manufacturing, everywhere...
Top 10 on Oprah-Laser Cut Leather for Spring
Thanks to Jackie, for letting me know that a laser cut leather skirt is on Oprah’s short list of must have items for Spring. The skirt featured is a pretty bell shaped gored skirt of a simple laser lace pattern...I was flummoxed in my attempts to find any credits on Oprah’s website. I have a feeling it may have been over-budget for the feature. Laser cut leather, in a good quality, does cost.
I’ve worked a great deal in laser cut leathers, some that leave no way to sew in any traditional fashion due to so much open area- like this suit to the right. Instead they have to be worked more like fine lace or net. I’ve created various techniques to deal with this and retain a perfectly clean finished garment. (I also line all the very sheer lasers with silk chiffon, the pieces shown were unlined for editorial purposes.)
These techniques, in & of themselves add to the cost of working with laser cut leather. Also the detailing of the pattern can affect the price of the skin as very detailed patterns take much more time under the laser to complete. I don’t even want to think of what’s involved in creating the digital artwork required for such patterns!
A good European laser cut uses primo skins since whatever is left after cutting must withstand some stress and not rip easily. I know they are replicating some of these laces in Asia and other countries, but they tend to be incredibly easy to rip, since the skins used are just not the quality needed.
I hope as my business grows, I can do my own laser cutting one day, in- house. It will allow me the opportunity to really get creative with the process and do a lot of different things that could otherwise be done only in a massive manufacturing situation.
