New Rules - Consultation Fee for New Clientele

Starting October 15th, there will a $150.00 fee for New Clients for any in-person appointment for custom made leather.  (Post Updated December 9th 2009)


At the time of the initial appointment a $150.00 minimum deposit is required.  This is payable by Visa, MasterCard or cash. 

This will be applied 100% to your order of the garment under consideration, within 1 month of initial appointment only.  If you do not follow through with an order in that time frame it cannot be refunded or applied to any future orders.  This covers up to a 1 hour, in-person consultation, measurements and includes any and all additional time spent swatching leather samples, researching styles,  & all  correspondence, etc. 

All jobs started at the time of appointment require a 50% deposit.  On occasion an estimate may not be finalized at time of first appointment (due to exact fabrication or design details not being completely finalized, additional info needed from client, etc. etc.) In this case the deposit required is 50% of low end of initial estimate.  Please note I do not give "estimates" over the phone.  All I can do over the phone is give you an idea of an average price range  based only on the items that people have ordered recently. 

At this time we do not accept Amex in the studio, but we do accept it online.  So,  if you wish to pay with American Express we will send you an invoice via PayPal that is payable online (you do not need a PayPal account), at least 48 hours before the scheduled appointment.  This payment must be processed at least 24 hrs before appointment to secure your chosen time slot.

As much as I would like to continue providing free initial consultations to New and Prospective customers,  with my schedule and in consideration of ongoing projects with my current clientele it is simply no longer possible. 

This consultation fee does not apply to any current or repeat clientele. 

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New Rules - Consultation Fee for New Clientele

Correction!!!- Save the Garment Center October 21st

Reposting  because  I am sooo freeking DYSLEXIC.... It's not the 12th it's the 21st of October!!!!
Be there,  Please.  (I did enter it in my calender correctly at least!)

Just got notice of this Rally this in my mailbox and I hope to see tons of people at Noon on October 21th at 39th Street and 7th Avenue, under the Big Button Statue.  For more info go here.

An addendum:

This is from my dear friend Carolyn Kostopolous, owner of Carelli Costumes (and NO do not call them about Halloween, they ONLY do Broadway and are understandably sick of the phone calls this time of year. ) She says it much better than I do.

“I have to say, I'm not sure what the point is.  Obviously, I believe the country and, more specifically, the city should have a viable manufacturing  / crafts base- clothes, furniture, food, anything tangible.  as a nation, we don't make anything anymore- just a bunchof overpaid suits who sit in front of computer screens and trade information.  if they could do anything with their hands, they mightbe happy fulfilled people and not need to make unconscionable sums of money for nothing.

However, at some point you have to realize that the garment district is gone in all but name.  Even if you lowered rents or stopped residential development, which might be all but stopped now due to the recession, but the people, the workers who had the skill to sewall that stuff are all retired, moved or dead.

Angelo said much the same thing to me when Obama was elected.  He said "Ok, what difference is that going to make?  You don't produce anything in this country and you haven't for years.  It's not like all the capable people are sitting around waiting for jobs to open up.  Those people have moved on."

But I do think it's worth a fight.  We have to get people making things again.  Who will replace me?  Or you?  You can't learn what we know on the internet or in a two year course.

And once the economy becomes based more on real things rather than mere information, and I think it has to, the only people who will survive are those who can actually make something.”

We have to keep manufacturing and all the support businesses in Manhattan.  This city,  this country cannot afford to just toss out and ghetto- ize buisnesses that are providing REAL  JOBS  that support REAL & SKILLED workers.  We cannot afford to put all our eggs into the unrealistic and now proven delusory fantasy that is Wall Street  & the so called "market".  Whose market?  Unlike Shakespeare, in this case, "thinking" be it on paper or via some quant's computer model,  doesn't make it so.

We need to keep these skilled and specialty jobs in Manhattan. We need to keep these skilled jobs in this country, period.

Because, no matter what many people may think, to be able to sew and make clothing is a skill not to be taken lightly.  Think about it,  it is one of the skills,  that given an apocalyptic situation would be needed right up there with food and building shelter.

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Correction!!!- Save the Garment Center October 21st

The Rolex Jacket has Finally Landed...

Wow, I had almost forgotten about this jacket... I wonder if the stylist even knows, it's been so long.

But it looks fantastic and I am so glad the photos finally came out!  All around a gorgeous shoot.
Thank You's go out to to a new customer for bring this to my attention,  I really appreciate it.
And Tommaso, wherever you are,  it looks amazing!  When are we gonna work together again!!!?

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The Rolex Jacket has Finally Landed...

Save the Garment Center Rally October 12th

Correction, the date is OCTOBER 21st !!! see NEW POST

Just got notice of this Rally this in my mailbox and I hope to see tons of people at Noon on October 12th  Correction October 21st at 39th Street and 7th Avenue, under the Big Button Statue.  For more info go here.

We have to keep manufacturing and all the support businesses in Manhattan.  This city,  this country cannot afford to just toss out and ghetto- ize buisnesses that are providing REAL  JOBS  that support REAL & SKILLED workers.  We cannot afford to put all our eggs into the unrealistic and now proven delusory fantasy that is Wall Street  & the so called "market".  Whose market?  Unlike Shakespeare, in this case, "thinking" be it on paper or via some quant's computer model,  doesn't make it so.

We need to keep these skilled and specialty jobs in Manhattan. We need to keep these skilled jobs in this country, period.

Because, no matter what many people may think, to be able to sew and make clothing is a skill not to be taken lightly.  Think about it,  it is one of the skills,  that given an apocalyptic situation would be needed right up there with food and building shelter.

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Save the Garment Center Rally October 12th

Channeling H.R. Giger

 Wow, was I blown away when I finally got the chance to look at Alexander McQueen's show.  The prints are brilliant, the use of the prints is so out of this world.  They blew me away.

So....Um...Very...ALIEN...

 

photos: Style.com

So I am perfectly perplexed as to why all the review on Style.com could talk about was Lady Gaga and the accompanying hordes on twitter.  

It mentions the concept as being sort of an apocolyptic "Waterworld".  But,  it completely ignores the VERY  OBVIOUS and (I think) incredibly beautifully executed homage to the works of H.R. Giger.

H.R Giger,  I think is one of the most influential of our contemporary artists.   His work transformed  and completely re-invented & redefined what is "Alien",  threatening and unfathomable, both in us,  and in the futuristic universes that make up his realm.

 His painting are just that - paintings, not computer generated, but generated out of his imagination and made real in all of the various film and decor projects he has done over the years.

Case in point... check out the full splash page on the official HR Giger site -  it could be the breast plate of one of the dresses....

 The real deal at www.hrgiger.com

Not to mention the shoes and the hair, both of which are incredible -  as both unbelievable edifices and pure works of art.  I am astounded that the girls could walk in these! (and I wonder how much they weigh - they are so purely dangerous! I like this. A lot!)

 

 

photos: style.com

I am such a sucker for prints,  having worked in leather for so long,  so I think this is my favorite McQueen collection of all time! 

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Channeling H.R. Giger

What drugs were they on?

When they came up with the idea that Lindsay Lohan could/should be the Creative Director at Ungaro?

Who, really, actually believed this would work?

...with a whole line of leggings under her belt? (I don't like to be catty, but really...sad)

& I have noticed they have recently updated the leggings website, with slightly better teeny-tiny leggings pictures, but still crappy looking "enlargements" of details.

But... what's with the Marilyn Monroe fixation??? A gigantic insult to Marilyn, who did exhibit both talent and taste in her public life. Yes, I get the drug-addled comparisons they allude to, but please...

I seriously do not get the reference to Marilyn on leggings with quilted leather knee patches. But I would really like to know who set up this deal for her. Imagine what they could do if they actually had some talent to work with!

The whole thing is fascinating but really, really depressing for the Fashion Industry everywhere...

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What drugs were they on?

Ready-to-Wear vs Custom-Made

Fashion Week is over here in NYC, and everywhere, the press has been full of stories on the state of the industry, the price of the clothes and how to give the industry, especially at the high end, a jolt.

Debate over price point, $800.00 for a dress is considered by some to be to “low end” for “high end” according to an interview in the NYT with Vera Wang, while Thakoon shows off $100.00 a yard fabric that he plans to use for a dress that will wind up at about 2000.00 in the stores.

Me, I think this is pretty impressive, considering he has to make that dress, pay for all the materials (There is a lot of draping this season=more fabric) & notions (trims, buttons, zippers etc) plus the highly skilled sewers needed to make something that will merit that price and then, add his markup, covering fixed and variable costs, and allowing for some profit (this should also include an allowance for buy backs & charge backs) plus carrying costs, since he will probably have to wait between 90 - 120 days to get paid. All this, for about 1/3rd of that estimated retail price.

On the other hand, in Thursdays’ style section was a feature “The Bodysuit Electric” featuring a $2300.00 ready-to-wear YSL strapless leather 1980’s style bodysuit, and all the different ways you can wear it. (Unfortunately all too 1980's derived) It is a hot, sexy garment, but why would you buy this as RTW? Even in the editorial you can see that the model will fall out of it the second she spontaneously raises an arm. A great piece, but a piece of this sort screams out to be custom-made. And when you consider the investment, it should to be custom-made.

What do you think, RTW vs Custom-Made?
Why and for what would you make the choice, or not, to go Custom-Made?

Or even Made-to-Order? (Usually an existing style, but adjusted to suit, usually within a specified size range.)

Other reads:
Wall Street Journal - various articles on Luxury
Forbes

There is a ton more out there, but my brain is a bit fried from the last week. I need a break!

Runway (!) Image Credit
There are some really fabulous photos here, Enjoy!

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Ready-to-Wear vs Custom-Made

Ephemeral and Eternal

The view this evening:











It is beyond my ability to describe the feelings that fill my heart when I see these lights. They are simply, to me, the most beautiful and fitting memorial to all who died on 9/11/01 and to all who have fought for us and all who have died since.

The Skyline is like a hazy glimmer of what could be the best in us. A once and future dream if you will. I hope we will reach it.

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Ephemeral and Eternal

Rick Owens' Real Aesthetics

I had to post this, the first part a great interview with Rick Owens that I found here, On The Business of Fashion. Part two is on youtube.

I have known about Rick Owens since the late 80's. A roommate of mine was good friend of Michelle Lamy, who he lived with at the time, in LA. I was always hearing about the clothes he was designing. (We've probably been designing for the same amount of time.) So over the years I've always followed his work and have always held a great deal of admiration for it, especially as a fellow designer who works in leather. In this interview, I realize that we share a lot as far as our feelings about fashion, the industry and working in it. His POV, is both practical and realistic and he doesn't buy into all the BS that we are bombarded with constantly.



I love that he jettisoned his press office, and the reason why. I love, love, love his kind of aggravated comment on the cv's & "collages" he sees all the time.

"Everyone wants to be a designer, what I need is older people who know how to make the stuff"

I could not have said it better myself. Bravo!

(Case in point is a dear friend who gave up teaching her Senior's course in American Couture at FIT. Because FIT does not teach them enough construction to either make or differentiate between 4 types of buttonholes. How shameful of FIT.)

I love that Rick Owens has stayed so true to himself over the years and of course I love what he does with leather (& knits). We share an aesthetic about wearability and quality & I am thrilled that he is finally getting his due.

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Rick Owens' Real Aesthetics

Glorious Leather Jacket

Ok, after getting all worked up about the leather jackets in "Inglourious Basterds" let's get back to the modern world. (Though I live to see those statement lapels come back!)

Here are some photos of a jacket I just finished, in an incredible espresso brown leather called "Roadrunner". The leather was milled a bit before cutting to bring out the grain. I am loving this leather. It's got a beautiful hand and very good weight and it works up beautifully.

This jacket was based on a old and much loved & worn, jacket belonging to the customer.

But the original jacket was quite beat up & much too over-sized for his taste & style today so really it was just a jumping off point.

It is lined in a heavy weight cotton sateen in a contrasting khaki and has these wonderful variegated horn buttons as well as two large outside pockets and 3 interior pockets, 2 at chest level and a special semi- hidden card pocket.














I am thrilled with the way it came out. It looks great on him, suits him perfectly & and should last him forever! ... Drat, did I just lose another customer!?

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Glorious Leather Jacket

Glourious...

I saw Inglourous Basterds last night. I wasn't originally planning to - but after seeing it mentioned on 2 of my favorite blogs, here & here, both of them highlighting the costumes, well... (like I said, I'm a sucker for costumes) I really enjoyed it.

QT has a shoe fetish, and with such great shoes, who wouldn't?

... and of course the leather...

(I must admit, though, after 'Grindhouse' I was a bit apprehensive - I could not stand that movie- dreckola- plus y plus-! I had to force myself to be polite & not ditch my friend in the theater!)

Anyone else see the huge "Brazil" influence in this film? Between the costumes, the mores, & the buffoonish portrayal of so many of the Nazis?

I do hope we will be seeing a lot more of Mélanie Laurent & Christoph Waltz in films here now, they are both tremendous talents.

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Glourious...

One Man's Luxury

Saw Harry Potter the other night, really enjoyed the visuals and kinda made me wish I still had a hand in the costume business....love costumes!

Anyhow, on the way home, a conductor got on the train & we both immediately noticed his bag.

It was gorgeous, & obviously made specially for the things conductors need, with an unusual square base, solid brass hardware and in an incredibly beautifully broken in leather.

We admired it & I took some (not very good) photos with my phone:

And then we got a great story from the owner (this guy had obviously been stopped about this bag many, many times) and he beamed as he told us that he got it custom made back in 1988!

He had to get a bag for the job back then so he and a few other guys got together and commissioned these special custom- made bags. He's had his ever since and uses it every single day since he got it.

He chuckled as he went on to say that the cheap bags that the MTA was pushing at the time would last on average 6 months and had to be replaced like clockwork. That, and they all got ribbed endlessly that they were spending way too much money for a bag.

And then he chuckled again...

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One Man's Luxury

Perfect Skins

People always ask what I make in leather, and my answer is... everything! I think "leather" is still oddly stuck on either "outerwear" or "fetish" wear in most people's minds when it comes up as a specific fabrication. And, I decided to focus on leather because I like the restraint :) it gives me. Like many artists I work best with a tightly defined goal or project, so I chose leather as my medium. I do work in other fabrics, but not here.   After all why would I need to? Look at just some of the things that can be done with skins... Please Turn The Sound DOWN - Or OFF!  My Apologies.

This video is of my last production collection, showing examples of work done in hand painted leather, laser cut leathers, distressed leathers, leather with hand-cut work and lacing, woven leather, reversible leather and fur, and stretch leather. As well as the leather & textile fabrications that are exclusive to BehrleNYC. Variations of many of these items can be custom-made.

Perfect Skins

A Note on Contacting Me for Custom-Made Items

Once in a while I get inquires either with mis-typed addresses or blocked addresses.

So this is just a reminder that when filling in contact forms either here or on the main site, please make sure you allow responses from behrlenyc.com into your e-mail. Otherwise I will be unable to answer your question.

I try very hard to answer all inquiries during the same or next the business day, so If you haven't heard back within that time, there may be a problem. So, as back-up you may also contact me via a comment here on this blog...I do not post comments with e-mails in them. & Yes I do custom made for all sizes. However hard-to-fit body types & plus sizes usually require in person appointments for measuring and fittings.

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A Note on Contacting Me for Custom-Made Items

White vs Black vs Wordpress

Such a nice contrast! I don't work on white often, leather is such an attention getter and white makes it even that much more so! So it takes a certain, very strong and confident personality to own a piece like this!



Fun to work on project, hopefully my client will one day send a photo of it on! Shot like this definitely does not give full effect.

Here, another unique and very personalized piece. Soft lambskin leather sweat pants for kicking back in. With full details- zip pockets and lower leg and waistband detail.





And lastly, something I've just started to get requests for, a mens jean style in the same stretch leather featured in our womens leggings. This client opted for stretch throughout the waist, which appears as slight gathering at the waistline when shot flat like this, but smooths out completely on the body. First thing he remarked on was how comfortable these jeans are.



Also, I am in the process of putting together a blog where I hope to eventually give an
overview of the actual process involved in creating various custom-made pieces.

Right now, The-Process is (mainly) a foray into my own (little bit frustrating) learning curve with Wordpress, but I'll get there!

I could never have managed so far on WP without this class. So please bear with me on this one.
It is truly a work-in-progress.

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White vs Black vs Wordpress