The biggest insult to the intelligence of the American People EVER

Two words : SARAH PALIN
And I welcome any and all views from the peanut gallery... comments, additions,
intelligent debate, etc.

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The biggest insult to the intelligence of the American People EVER

Can We Save the Garment Center?

I cannot find a direct link to this story so here is what I found. (I think its completely irresponsible for WWD to have this as a "locked" article - which is what it appears to be and not even mentioned in it's headline e-mail headlines. I am not a current subscriber because I don't feel WWD has ever done enough to promote or encourage smaller designers or local designers/manufacturers. Or any of domestic end of the industry for that matter. NYC cannot afford to put all it's eggs in the totally screwed financial markets, we must produce something to remain a viable economy- that goes for the US as a whole...This is such an important issue that affects us on so many different levels...Thank you for posting it "SuperBeautiful"

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Can We Save the Garment Center?

Wilson's Leather Out of Business?

I must have missed something.

Wilson's was still in business???? That Company should have been put out of it's misery years ago. Seems that for the last 15 years or so it's been one of the most mis-managed, poorly merchandised, directionless retail outlet concepts out there. To go from being one of the largest retailers in the country... (how they did that I guess was by being everything to everybody - good idea!- that worked!)

Every single re-invention over that time was incredibly ill-conceived, poorly executed and just plain wishy-washy. No point-of-view whatsoever. The merchandise always left me scratching my head, sub-par in quality, styling and fit- It's looked like a car crash for ever. Nobody behind the wheel.

I'd hate to express this with regards to an "American" company, but we all know Wilson's hadn't manufactured anything in this country in years so...

Thank you for pulling the plug.

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Now playing: Jonny Greenwood - Future Markets
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Wilson's Leather Out of Business?

Hard Edged Romance in Leather

I've been super busy, we just shot a bunch of new stuff and I have been working on some different items than I am used to. Two projects entail some very hard and ridged construction, not normally what I do, but since I've started doing handbags-fascinates me. I am making a home now (more like an RV) for a little computer. The bag has really hardcore customer specifications, light in weight, good size, very specific pockets- my client wants it to hold everything she needs when flying, several changes of clothes plus computer and peripherals.

A real challenge, since something like this is very personal. I know how I like things a certain way and how many things, I always want to "fix", be it in a bag, a sleeve, a hem- whatever. So I completely get it when somebody says they've bought x # of (off-the-rack) bags, jackets- whatever, and nothing quite works.

The last couple of years, bags are so loaded down with hardware, you're already weight-lifting. Before the computer, the make-up, the paperback, the keys, the phone and god knows what else.

My whole thing- with leather- is to lighten it up.

If you didn't know, I am the antithesis of Chrome Hearts, ...fashion is hard enough without having to lug around an extra 20 lbs. (& my virtually waterproof 4.5 oz leather eco-shopping bag will be available to order next week & no that is not a typo)

So now I am working on the second bag, I will post some photos when I am done, in the
meantime here is a preview of some of the new stuff. It's kinda hard and dark and romantic all at once.













I want to thank the photographer, Phillip Wong, the model, Yana Zak, fabulous make-up artist, Sandra Downie and James Fabius for their help in getting this latest shoot together and the gorgeous results!

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Now playing: Nick Cave & Kate Bush - Where The Wild Roses Grow
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Hard Edged Romance in Leather

Iconic Punk Elvis Presley

I have been very lax in posting lately- and I have to go through my comments, but I had to post this today. I got in this afternoon and got some questions on something I'm selling on ebay- I have way too much stuff and way too little space- like everybody else in NYC and I periodically clean out my closets this way... So I listed this Iconic '70's punk t-shirt that I reworked:




Well, today when I got in I'd received this "Question" from an E-Bay member:

Q: This shirt should be burned! People who don't know anything about the king of rock n' roll design shirts like this! It is very rude to put a negative design over such an important picture from our history! Elvis was and is the only civilian to ever walk into the White house with guns! (my italics) Elvis did and is still giving to so many people! He has touched so many people with his huge giving heart! From giving money, charity, cars, houses,free tickets,jewelry, food, animals, clothing, medical care and trans. to & from, & the shirt off his back etc! There is Presley Place foundations that help people in need and also are providing help to the huricane victims so they can rebuild New Orleans. What other celebrity can you name that has done all this alive and dead? Before you sell such degrading shirts you should watch documentries on the "USS Arizona memorial in memory of Pearl Harbor" and also "Elvis meets Nixon" just to mention a few so you can get a glimps of what an amazing man Elvis was!!!

- cheyka123

It's pretty much common knowledge that Elvis was wacked out of his gourd during the time he accepted the DEA badge from Nixon, and who on earth thought it was a good idea to let anybody into the White House with a GUN? That's Special???

(Although, nowadays... I am being completely facetious here, or can't you tell?)

I must say, I was warned. You see this t-shirt has a back story. My brother wore the original to Graceland- I don't know when, I guess pretty soon after it was opened to the public. From the way he describes it he was physically hauled out of the place due to the uproar the shirt caused among the hardcore Elvis fans, who unfortunately lack any sense of humor or irony, and apparently don't get the concept of freedom of speech- or live and let live. It's not a personal attack, It's a FREEKIN t-shirt!!!

cheyka123 - please keep your child away from the loaded gun you keep in your bureau and remember your spell-check....

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Now playing: Tunng - Bullets
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Iconic Punk Elvis Presley

Leather Luddite at Heart

I am exhausted, one project, in particular has been very challenging, lots of tiny pieces and very unique construction,
(I will post pix asap)

I really like to concentrate and put my undivided attention into my work, even if it's just for a short stretch, I feel so much better when I am able to do that and for some reason tiny pieces get me flustered, distracted and I need super extra super ,super sharp concentration. Not easy when you are doing a bunch of stuff at once.

So, I basically put all computer stuff aside when I need to do concrete, physical,work, product.

I can really get into all this computer & internet stuff (way, way too much, being the obsessive Virgo that I am (same birthday as Amy Winehouse-?!?) but it's not my thing at all.

There's that tactile thing, I will never , ever, get over that. I am obsessed with it, flatness becoming 3-d. Thought solidified.

Something to touch, feel, smell, wear , get-out-of -the-house-in. get-out -of-suburbia-in.

Images, dreams, visions and shadow becoming reality.

This is just the germ of my love hate relationship with the computer.

btw, the project came out great! We are both thrilled with it!

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Leather Luddite at Heart

Lost Colony of the Amazon

I’ve wanted to put up some these photos I am scanning for Diego, so, with your permission
D, here they are…

These photos were taken during a Amazon expedition led by Tibor Sekelj, in the late 1940’s, in 1947 or 1948.

Sekelj, was an explorer, writer/journalist, ethnographer and esperantist. He was a contemporary of Thor Heyerdahl , but I think is mainly known in Europe.


Diego, whose mother is wrestling the crocodile with Tibor, has a small collection of these photos, some which were published in Tibor’s books, but all the reproduction I’ve seen is very poor.

Diego also has some of the items seen in the photos, like the long radiant feather headdress, on the left in the photo below. Also some of weavings, earrings, a woven wrap and even a contraceptive cap carved out of some sort of nut or shell! The weavings in particular are very interesting and have held up well. Many of the adornment items are very aural, made with bits of hanging shell that jingle together at the slightest movement.






I can’t imagine the beauty in reality and I figure that these people and their life style were lost long ago. I find these images especially beautiful and evocative and I wanted to put some of them up.

I Love You Diego!

For more on these photos and artifacts,please contact me, and I will put you in touch with Diego.

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Lost Colony of the Amazon

The Lost Colony, recreated

Here's an interesting link to more on the re-building of the costumes for "the Lost Colony".

Yes the Queen's costume is like a car, not only in cost (a luxury model I would guess), but in it's dimensions! And I believe the actress wearing it is quite petite! Imagine a 5'1", 100 lb woman encased in a Smart car!

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Now playing: Gogol Bordello - Illumination
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The Lost Colony, recreated

"The Lost Colony" Costumes

I had meant to add to my couture and costume post over a week ago, so better late than never.
The costumes were for an incredibly long running production out of North Carolina called
"The Lost Colony" and are designed by William Ivey Long.

It's a very funny coincidence that I happened to have a program from The Lost Colony's second year in production. My Mom saw it as a child and loved it. She'd kept the program pristinely all these years! Here are some images from that program:

And here are some more photos of the new costumes which are replacing costumes lost in a fire last year:






Some finished Dresses:


I want to thank my friend Karin for these beautiful costume photos.

I am very behind on a ton of stuff, all of it computer related. Everything basically stops when I have projects. So only when I get a decent break or am waiting for an appointment and have stuff prepped, am I able to stay on top of this. I would love some help with this, so I'm putting it out there for any of you with ideas and/or suggestions.

I will be posting some more VERY amazing "Lost Colony" photos soon. Never, ever, before seen photos from the Amazon Jungle, circa 1947 or 1948. Some really gorgeous tribal life images.

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Now playing: The Elysian Fields - Bayonne
via FoxyTunes

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"The Lost Colony" Costumes

Haute Couture in the USA

Haute Couture in the USA does exist, but not where you'd expect. From time to time I help out at a costume shop owned by a woman I've know since I was 16, when we met because of our mutual love of the costume arts. It's a great refresher for me, and brings me back to my roots, and my first love, the art & discipline of the craft. Her shop turns out true haute couture, there is absolutely nothing else you could call it, it's really astounding. The main difference is the that the work is expected to last for years under daily and rigorous wear, repeated cleaning, alterations and god knows what other abuse. And of course she does not have access to Lesage embroideries. But at this rate who cares! Here are some photos:




When this costume was up on the mannequin, Hugh, who directed it's creation came upstairs to announce it. Only about 3/4 of the upstairs shop came running downstairs with cameras out, "just like a bunch of Japanese tourists" my friend Karin, (above- taking aim) said, and it was true. There was a mob - jockeying for position! I will post more on this over the weekend, this was the most amazing series of pieces to see come to life. The shop is brilliant!

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Haute Couture in the USA

Summer Leather Bags

After getting sidetracked by the springbok, I finished this “Frill” bag:

White Deerskin Frill Bag

It’s inspired by a washed white deerskin suit I did (as stage wear) for a bass player who’s really, really into the iconic rock star leathers of the late 60’s and early 70’s.

Maybe I should call them "Summer of Love" bags? I am also offering the Frill Bag in black as a special order:

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Summer Leather Bags

Having an Alaia Moment

Azzedine Alaia is one of my favorite designers and I admire him as much for his attitude as his insane talent - he is well known to follow his own schedule and to hell with everyone else's.

I am prone to follow my own schedule too, sometimes due to materials (aka- I love it now!) sometimes just 'cause I feel like it. So here is my current Alaia moment(s):

purchase Jaguar Crested Bag

purchase Zebra Crested Bag

Yes, they are fur, but I wanted to get it over with. Fur is a real bitch to work with once it gets warm out and no, A/C doesn't cut is as then you get it flying.
And yes, I will be doing these bags to order after these initial pieces are sold.

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Having an Alaia Moment

He'll take Dubai

I got a good belly laugh this morning when I saw this article on Derek Khan, former stylist/ jewel thief to the "Stars", in the style section of the NYT! Ha! Very funny, PT Barnum was never so right!

I had the bizarre experience of working with this guy when he was working with Lauryn Hill. I could say I was lucky to not have been ripped off by him. But come on, when a stylist (or anybody for that matter) goes on and on about how (insert boldfaced name here) pays them $10,000.00 plus a day and flies them around for personals etc., and in the next sentence complains that what they want so desperately to purchase from you is too expensive... is that not a tip-off?

It was odd- I was introduced to Lauryn Hill and went to her home for fittings, and couldn't figure out why they were working with Derek. She and all the people I met were exceedingly genuine, nice and all very,very serious about their work, no BS here. Derek Khan, while he can be charming and all, is a consummate and frankly bald faced bullshitter. I kinda had him figured as cheap entertainment. How could you not take this guy with a massive mountain of salt?

Seems they had no patience with him either since almost immediately Derek was out of the picture & the next I hear of him is the jewelery debacle. Laughed then too.

Dubai can have him and Hof Jewellery is likely being taken for a ride, have fun! Wait- don't they do lashing, cut off hands and other hardcore punishment in that country? Maybe it'll work.

Damn!

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Now playing: New Order - World in Motion
via FoxyTunes

lousy Polaroid courtesy of Derek Khan!

He'll take Dubai

Why I rarely shop

I went to a sample sale today. I rarely shop lately, since I am generally disgusted with the quality vs. the price on so many things. If I can make something I will, or I just go for something comfortable and disposable since most of the time I am getting covered in leather fuzz and glue anyway. So, anyhow, I got two very cute linen dresses by Calypso - figured what the hey @ 10 bucks a piece. (The dress was originally priced @ $285.00. & there were tons of these dresses on the last day so you have a clue) No try ons.

No wonder! I get into my studio and try them on & the elastic in the upper arm is so tight my arm goes purple in like 3 seconds! What the hell? Who the fuck is watching their production??? The upper arm elastic- when removed, measures 6 1/2 " total. That's your wrist.

The dress must of cost them about $10.00 to make, (Sri Lanka) since it appears it wasn't worth it to them to have the elastic changed once they caught the problem. The exploitation of cheap labor winds up creating so much waste. That this dress was put out at retail with this glaring problem? I guess the company doesn't care much about the product or the customer.

(Shit, my name on my label means something- am I that much of a dinosaur?)

It took about a minute to remove the elastic and do a much needed tack at the front of each dress- it will take another minute to replace the elastic when I get some. I'm happy. Now back to work.

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Why I rarely shop

Fun with Handbags

I have been busy working on a little group of limited edition & one-of-a-kind bags that I will be putting up soon, but it's taking a while because I keep getting distracted with alhttp://www.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gifl the other stuff I am doing. I came across these bags by a designer named James Piatt, out of California. I love technique they are made with, and I like the dark humor (though some of it definitely hits wrong now - I can't tell how up-to-date the site is.) Check out the "Persuader". Your cell phone becomes your ammunition. Very clever.

Tinkerbell by James Piatt

This is the bag that caught my eye, I thought it was a black cat, in the Emily vein - I guess I'm just a goth at heart.

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Fun with Handbags