Azzedine Alaia is one of my favorite designers and I admire him as much for his attitude as his insane talent - he is well known to follow his own schedule and to hell with everyone else's. I am prone to follow my own schedule too, sometimes due to materials (aka- I love it now!) sometimes just 'cause I feel like it. So here is my current Alaia moment(s):
It was odd- I was introduced to Lauryn Hill and went to her home for fittings, and couldn't figure out why they were working with Derek. She and all the people I met were exceedingly genuine, nice and all very,very serious about their work, no BS here. Derek Khan, while he can be charming and all, is a consummate and frankly bald faced bullshitter. I kinda had him figured as cheap entertainment. How could you not take this guy with a massive mountain of salt?
I went to a sample sale today. I rarely shop lately, since I am generally disgusted with the quality vs. the price on so many things. If I can make something I will, or I just go for something comfortable and disposable since most of the time I am getting covered in leather fuzz and glue anyway. So, anyhow, I got two very cute linen dresses by Calypso - figured what the hey @ 10 bucks a piece. (The dress was originally priced @ $285.00. & there were tons of these dresses on the last day so you have a clue) No try ons.
No wonder! I get into my studio and try them on & the elastic in the upper arm is so tight my arm goes purple in like 3 seconds! What the hell? Who the fuck is watching their production??? The upper arm elastic- when removed, measures 6 1/2 " total. That's your wrist.
The dress must of cost them about $10.00 to make, (Sri Lanka) since it appears it wasn't worth it to them to have the elastic changed once they caught the problem. The exploitation of cheap labor winds up creating so much waste. That this dress was put out at retail with this glaring problem? I guess the company doesn't care much about the product or the customer.
(Shit, my name on my label means something- am I that much of a dinosaur?)
It took about a minute to remove the elastic and do a much needed tack at the front of each dress- it will take another minute to replace the elastic when I get some. I'm happy. Now back to work.
Add to Technorati Favorites
Tinkerbell by James Piatt
Wow- I guess I am always just a little bit ahead of everything. (That’s not necessarily good for me.)
This clipping came to me along with a really sweet note from a client of mine, Ellen Weldon. She had recognized the technique right away!
It doesn't happen often, since what I do is not that easy to copy, but in the end it’s really only a matter of time. And it is nice to see the technique I’ve been perfecting since 1999 done so well. It’s not the first variation I’ve seen, but it's definitely the nicest. I initially found it a little hard to believe it’s actually made in Switzerland, what with the way it’s priced. (Top $1750. Skirt $2300.) Especially when taking into account raw materials, the Euro, & the various markups involved when selling to Bergdorf’s, and comparable stores, etc.
But with Akris’s resources, they can utilize every bit of computerization and high tech production available, taking out as much hand labor as possible. It’s the only way it could be done, as the technique is quite tricky and definitely a couture one. Really, the quality of their line is quite beautiful.The note card the clipping came in is gorgeous! Ellen designs and makes incredible, hand-made cards, invitations and gift packaging for events, weddings, and the like. The note card is a very heavy card stock edged in red, with a matching envelope lined in a hand-painted paper with metallic gold highlights. The envelope is embossed with her name- under the flap! It's really, really elegant.
Oh, Baby!
Baby Jane Holzer, that is. She was one of the inspirations for John Galliano's very pretty fall collection for Christian Dior, which skillfully mixed glamour and restraint. The big hair and ladylike accessories were all part of the fun. Here, a look that would have delighted Holzer in the Sixties, a flared fur coat,
worn with short leather gloves and a top-handle bag.
Had fun watching the Oscars, but I can't believe how quickly those who didn't tow the line and dress according to some PR/media flak/company marketing plan got Trashed. Come on!
Marion Cotillard looked amazing! I just don't get the petty, meanness of some of the comments I read. And god forbid if you dress to highlight your own tastes and personality. I LOVED what Diablo Cody wore, it suited her perfectly and the earrings were kick-ass. Yes, the slit should've been closed off some so she wasn't nervously checking it when she went on up stage, but cheeky underwear would've worked too!
Tilda's dress was intriguing, and I got why she picked it. It worked in theory, not in practice. It was a difficult dress. and it looked she had to keep her right arm permanently bent at the elbow....(or what, I wonder?) She has an amazing face, her skin is astoundingly beautiful, and I loved that she appeared barren of make-up. The dress did highlight this, which may have been the point. So, Go Tilda!
I LOVE the title of this story out of Sydney, and I agree whole-heartedly.
I never got how hitting 30 seemed to become the cut off date for a new pair of leather pants. During one 2 month period, I made 60+ pairs of custom and special order pants and I’d say close to 40 of them were for women frantic to get a pair before they turned 30! The rest were for some of the most amazingly stylish, self-confident & beautifully secure women I have ever met. All between 45-65. Hey, 30 is just the start! Kudos to all of you!
Thank you LA Times, for printing this article. "Made in Italy" isn’t always.
Italy is allowed to use that label on finished goods brought in from other countries, including those they then export.
The big names have gotten great quality finished leather garments for years out of Slovakia. (Very, very, good quality workmanship coming out of Slovakia) I looked into it at one point, the quantities were not too onerous for a small company, but I would have had to label the product “Made in Slovakia”. BIG difference, No?
Slovakia is probably feeling it now too, the pressure to compete with the unbelievably cheap labor out of China. Guess what's gonna happen when China has ALL the manufacturing, everywhere...
Thanks to Jackie, for letting me know that a laser cut leather skirt is on Oprah’s short list of must have items for Spring. The skirt featured is a pretty bell shaped gored skirt of a simple laser lace pattern...I was flummoxed in my attempts to find any credits on Oprah’s website. I have a feeling it may have been over-budget for the feature. Laser cut leather, in a good quality, does cost.
I’ve worked a great deal in laser cut leathers, some that leave no way to sew in any traditional fashion due to so much open area- like this suit to the right. Instead they have to be worked more like fine lace or net. I’ve created various techniques to deal with this and retain a perfectly clean finished garment. (I also line all the very sheer lasers with silk chiffon, the pieces shown were unlined for editorial purposes.)
These techniques, in & of themselves add to the cost of working with laser cut leather. Also the detailing of the pattern can affect the price of the skin as very detailed patterns take much more time under the laser to complete. I don’t even want to think of what’s involved in creating the digital artwork required for such patterns!
A good European laser cut uses primo skins since whatever is left after cutting must withstand some stress and not rip easily. I know they are replicating some of these laces in Asia and other countries, but they tend to be incredibly easy to rip, since the skins used are just not the quality needed.
I hope as my business grows, I can do my own laser cutting one day, in- house. It will allow me the opportunity to really get creative with the process and do a lot of different things that could otherwise be done only in a massive manufacturing situation.
I love these new Diesel Kids ads inspired by Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome. Brought to my attention by Hell for Leather, a site that combines speed, style and leather (what more could you possibly want ?)
