East West Musical Instrument Co.

Fashion Incubator, over the last week posted two items about the East West Musical Instrument Company. These jackets were out of this world as far as design and craftsmanship. The HEIGHT of 1970’s art leather. Some fabulous photos and references and other info are included on F-I.
I knew very little about East West beyond having been handed an original years ago and asked to do a version if it. After which I met a guy who told me he sold the originals, and gave me the little bit of info I’d had on the line till now. I’ve only seen two of these original jackets in person and boy, are they AMAZING.
Here's a pix of an original. And here is my version, circa 1995- hope it stands up!

A few years later I was asked to recreate it again- this time for Victoria's Secret.

This is what the final result was...


A lot different!

Literally, two days before the shoot (video for TV catalog, stills, the whole nine yards) the concept suddenly changed, from "Barbarella as a Vargas Girl" to " Apollo 13". Thank god the linings weren't in yet. We wound up re-cutting and re-constructing 5 jackets in under 48 hours! (then they lost a girl!) You can just barely see the wing details on the sleeves, and of course the wings on the back stayed, but we lost the fronts & had to kill the original collar, add cuffs and tailored waistbands and little hand painted name plates.
so Very NASA...

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East West Musical Instrument Co.

My Mom

...was a very beautiful, very funny and very strong being. She passed away on January 22nd.

Thank you Mom, for being just crazy enough to, along with Dad, drag 3 kids across the US, Mexico and Canada in a 22 foot Winnebago every single year as we were growing up. (and for leaving the Winnie behind for various trips to Europe, Scotland & Puerto Rico…) You gave us amazing freedom and opportunities. I miss you. You are the best.
My parents continued to take a motor home (or something else) out somewhere every single year and would have surely continued.

Mom, May your new travels be sweet ones. We love you and are with you. We will keep Dad out of trouble for you.

Love forever....

My Mom

Dress of the Day... Yikes!

I've not been here a while, I will be getting back on a more regular basis soon...A friend of mine sent me this link from StyleDash, and it really makes me wonder. I shudder to think that anybody could think this dress "hot". Did the writer get a freebie?(ugh) or is that absolutely the best she could come up with? I realize that coming up with a cool, good looking clothing item from the web on a daily basis is a tall order, but give us a break. I sincerely hope nobody is rushing out to purchase this, so what, (and no wonder...doh!) it's on sale?

Look, if you are going to buy ANY piece of leather clothing,

A) It should look like leather, not a trash bag.
B) It needs to fit properly.
C) If you need to, save up and spend more. You will be much happier.

An article of leather clothing should not even remotely look like the dress above. It should look like this: Later, when I can access my photos, I will put up a pix of a dress I did about 7-8 years ago which IS a HOT Zippered Dress!

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Dress of the Day... Yikes!

Bespoke Leather Coat

I've finally got a pix of the coat I'd posted about earlier, the way it's supposed to be- on a body!

Thanks Diego, for loaning me the jacket to shoot and thanks Noel, for throwing it on. (I still want a pix of you in the jacket Diego, that does not change...)

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Bespoke Leather Coat

Stretch Leather Leggings

Finally got some new stuff up in the shop. (I hate MIVA Merchant) My faves are the stretch leather leggings, which will go great with a sweater dress I am jonesing for, or under anything else for warmth and sleekness.

& these long stretch leather sleeves and this nubuck hat, which was inspired by a hat I saw once on Larry Shox of Shox Lumania. It is really fun to wear, warm, and a lot more interesting than a knit cap.

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Stretch Leather Leggings

Divas in Leather

It's so funny- on I Tunes e-mail today they are featuring 3 of the powerful female artists I have designed for. Mary J. Blige, Alicia Keys (who was like 16 the first time I worked with her!) and Jill Scott! 3 ladies with great chops and style...

Left- Alica Keys in Behrle NYC (InStyle Magazine) Above- MJB in Behrle NYC (Us Magazine)

I wish I had some images of the of the skirt and jacket I made for Jill Scott for her Grammy awards performance, she was very cool to work with...

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Divas in Leather

Leather and Other Art

Angelo Filomeno, an astounding artist working in silk & thread primarily, told me about an artist who’s work I had to see.
I finally got to look her up & it is the artist, who years ago- having seen one tiny, grainy black and white photo of her work, pretty much launched my fascination with all things leather.
… I will never forget that photo, the black leather head encased in leather and spiraling zippers that looked as if they might actually unzip like a peel, fascinated me. For ages, I obsessed over how a 3D piece like that might be made actually functional, without any molding- just the leather and zippers. (I love construction puzzles) I think it really informed my obsession with both leather and Fit. I could’t find images that particular head any where, but here you will find an interview with Nancy Grossman.

The Third Mind" Palais de Tokyo, Paris

Now I must plug Angelo, he is an artist of the highest caliber. He "paints" (for lack of a better word) with embroidery. The scale and detail of his work is awe inspiring. And if you got a look at the process he goes through to create these incredible tableaux, they become even more incredible. I have never seen a photograph that can do justice to the work. You must see it in person. He was a featured artist in the Venice Biennale this summer, and I was very lucky to get to see the work in progress.

My Love Sings When the Flower is Near (The Philosopher and the Woman), Angelo Filomeno 2007

For an idea of scale, these skeletons are at least life sized. The canvas is 13 feet high. This is the kind of detail he gets...with an old, completely hand-guided, industrial Singer embroidery machine. If you had any idea the kind of work this entails. Needless to say he does it all himself- no farming out of the work. You must see it in person.

Cold (detail) Angelo Filomeno

Here is more of his work. He is represented by Galerie LeLong

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Leather and Other Art

Subprime Explained

just a small digression...now, if only they will explain how the dollars drop in value will help sell more American made goods (to Americans?) - since they are so much cheaper now.
If it is made here, the raw materials more than likely aren't. (like mine, which are all out of Europe)

Prices go up.

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Subprime Explained

Romantic Gothic Wedding Gown

Here is a Wedding Gown created for Linda Marrota for her wedding to Kaz.

Linda is a Wiccan Goth Goddess (obviously!)… film & book reviewer for Fangoria magazine magazine and head buyer for Shakespeare and Co. books here in NYC.













It's actually 2 pieces, a cordovan laced leather corset and a free-form suede skirt that drapes and fits as though it is bias cut.

It's one of the really unique wedding outfits I've had the opportunity to create (In leather or fabric- but more on that later...)

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Romantic Gothic Wedding Gown

Marty and Allison's Wedding

I don't think people think of leather first thing for wedding attire, but I've made quite a few leather pieces specifically requested for weddings. Most recently I made this classic suede shirt jacket for Marty to wear to his wedding to Allison. It was perfect for a late September outdoor wedding!

Congrats Guys!
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Marty and Allison's Wedding

New Men's Leather

Just finished this coat and I am very happy with it. Diego, I hope you are too! It's a 3/4 length car coat cut with a slight Edwardian inspiration- Edwardian like Mod, that is. it's in a glossy Olive cowhide that will dull down to a much more subtle finish with some wear. Black Oxidized Antique brass zips and pockets inside and out! Flannel backed satin lining for winter.

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New Men's Leather

Happiness...

This just made my day today! I could not help but to smile & laugh out loud & applaud at the end...!
Thanks Linda (sis) for sending it to me! Be Happy!

Happiness...

Whatever Happened to...?

Every so often I have to track down what has happened with various jobs or editorials. Were the pieces I made used? Photographed? Or left on the cutting room floor as it were?
Last summer I did two pairs of leather pants for a film starring Sarah Michelle Gellar.
Patrica Field, the costume designer called me because we've worked together a lot (love Pat!) and I had also done other work for SMG, mainly, a pretty well seen "Vampirilla"costume.
The film was was a great commission, & the pants were supposed to be a plot point! Alas, I missed the US opening. (2 whole screenings at the Tribeca Film Festival in April!) This month it's opening in New Zealand - then in January, it's straight to video!... Phooey.

In any case.....

Next up. Thank You! Tommaso, for the fabulous pix of the jacket & hat commissioned by Rolex for their newest add campaign. I am very excited to see the final results!

It's all good...

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Whatever Happened to...?

Congrats!!!!

Just finished a job for a sweet couple and I want to just say...

Congratulations! Marty and Allison, on the occasion of your wedding! All the best to you!

LOL Carla Dawn

Congrats!!!!

Fashion Evolution

Recently, I subscribed to a feed of Fashion-Incubator.com. It is a fascinating site for anyone involved with, or just interested in the business of fashion. A recent post on the site was titled "Slow Fashion" which immediately drew my attention, ("slow food" is a big interest of mine and I had not heard the term applied to fashion before) It relates very strongly to the custom made business and while specifically mentioning men's fashion, I do think it's crossing over into women's. My female client tend to order more classic items than men. My male customers go for more individualistic items. (Is this just me? Has anybody else noticed this?)

Maybe it feels a little safer with the rapid changes in women's fashion from season to season, but I feel it is changing. When I was manufacturing, I noticed that a cutting edge style could have a 2+ year run. It took that time, I think, for the eye to get used to a new look. Starting on the coasts and working it's way into the center of the country, I'd run styles (as long as I could still get the leather) and do great with them. Fashion historically has always been an evolution and I feel many new ideas and silhouettes are done a great disservice nowadays by the push to change so completely every season.

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Fashion Evolution