BehrleNYC at the Vendy Awards

For those of you Lucky enough to have a ticket to tomorrow's 2010 Vendy Awards,  eat up & have a blast!

A celebration of the the best street food vendors in NYC (and Philly too this year) ranging from Venezuelan to Austrian to French Moroccan and on to Desserts!

We were not able to snag a ticket   :(    but one of our bags did!   This one-of-a-kind, unisex, Springbok & leather BehrleNYC messenger bag will be part of the raffle,  so if you are there,   buy a ticket to support all the best Street food vendors & the Street Vendor Project of the Urban Justice Center.  NYC just would not be right without it's street vendors.   If you are lucky you may wind up with a bag perfect to hit the street with this Fall!

& taste a little of everything for us!!!

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BehrleNYC at the Vendy Awards

Celebrating Fashion Week & My Birthday Week. 15% off.

Here is little Belated Fashion Week Love and a little something to celebrate my Birthday!  

Which usually goes completely by the wayside due to the combo of time of year plus Fashion week!

Now, through Monday the 20th of September take 15% off your entire order in the online shop with code FWNY2010.  Includes Sale Items & Made to Order items!!!!  (Made to order delivery times are specified in the store)

This discount will also be applied to any New (in-person) Custom Made items with First appointments booked by Sept 20th and with First fitting completed with deposit placed by September 30th 2010.  Mention you read it here, or on Twitter or FB and include the code when calling or emailing.

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Celebrating Fashion Week & My Birthday Week. 15% off.

Size Lies & Why it's called Custom Made

I do custom made, via mail order,  all the time.   I get requests for this service from all over the world.  It is not a simple process and requires work on the clients part as well.  It entails a pretty detailed list of measurements needed from the client (supplied with an equally detailed set of instructions). 

It can be filled out by the client, with help of a friend or tailor, and I make myself available to help via e-mail or phone.  I make mostly pants this way.  I have done much more complicated pieces like Catsuits and Jackets via the mail,  but I want at very least one in-person fitting on these types of projects! 

When clients see the chart,  many US clients,  in their initial panic upon seeing it  (Pl-eeze, it is 2 pages including instructions!) is:  "But my my jeans size is______"

The answer to that one is HERE.  Courtesy of  Esquire's Excellent Style Blog. 

It should be required reading.   It is true for both Men's & Women's jeans.

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Size Lies & Why it's called Custom Made

Custom Made Cutwork Linen Wedding Dress Parts 6 & 7

Yikes!  It'll be my one year anniversary if I finish up this series at the rate I am going. 

Ok,  here we are almost September and I've been married almost 3 months- which is over 2 months longer than this dress took to finish!  I had a couple of very fortuitously quite weeks in May, so I took the time and made it into a luxury for myself and started this project.  I have not worked in fabric in ages so it's a little bit of a treat (plus a p.i.t.a. since I am not set up for it)  &  7 Is the halfway point.

 
While it's not leather,  it is still a fair overview of what can be involved in the making of a fine and truly custom-made garment.  And the many (often unexpected) problems and solutions that come into play in during the construction of  specialty custom made items.

I won't go to much into detail, it bores me completely now so I can imagine from your end. (But I am going to finish this series and that is probably the end of my experiment into following the "process")

As for this project, it is my tiny contribution to keeping very specialized & fine construction out there.  Enough!

notice;  there is a seam that will be boned  in the middle of the under layer
aka- sewing yourself into a corner.




inside view of seam before boning


boned


basted to stitch-inside



basted to stitch-outside




God forbid the strap needs shortening...

But that's what the muslin is for.  

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Custom Made Cutwork Linen Wedding Dress Parts 6 & 7

The Word of Luxury, or Cars and Girls

In Fashion or branding, what do you think of when you think of Luxury?   Is it Hermes?   Or perhaps Louis Vuitton?   How About American Eagle or Urban Decay?   How is it that ALL of these things have been labeled at one point or another as "Luxury"?  

Really, what is it?  Is it D & G masquerading as Forever 21:

Or is  it a $75,000.00 Balmain crocodile jacket?
Is it exclusivity?   Or something more like this?   If you've watched this movie  you'll have drooled over seriously fantastic luxury in a big way!


Is it what you receive from it?  Sheer pleasure or pure bragging rights?  A new Ferarri or an original 1965 Shelby? 

 How about a 1957 Ferrari?

( Is this not the epitome of Luxury?  Better yet if you drive it daily!  Dammit, why can they DESIGN cars like this anymore???)  

Or is it… (as the old song goes) A Winnebago??? Heck a HERD of Winnebagos!  (Disclaimer later) or  a baby's arm holding an apple…?


Luxury could mean the freedom of this…

 Fee Waybill as QuayLude

Or this…

 Daphne Guinness as... Daphne Guinness.

Luxury,   it means a lot of things to a lot of different people. Indefinable, elusive, emotional, visceral, shallow & at the same time incredibly vital.


It is continually evolving & expressing & Inspiring.

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The Word of Luxury, or Cars and Girls

Watch Out Kanye West, Chelsea Handler To Host VMAs

Kanye West will be swimming in snark infested waters at the Nokia Theater when Chelsea Handler hosts the 27th annual Video Music Awards next month. Good thing West has his leather pants collection* - he's going to need to suit up to protect himself from all the barbs Handler will surely throw his way.  Between West's outburst at last year's VMAs (grabbing the mic from Taylor Swift during her acceptance speech) and his ridiculous self-absorbed tweets, there might not even be time to make fun of Justin Bieber's haircut.

*BTW Kanye, 7 pairs does not a collection make- get back to us when your up to at least 20....

image-thanks to Liz Davis

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Watch Out Kanye West, Chelsea Handler To Host VMAs

Speak of the Devil-Car Design

Its funny how things come up in conversation and then the exact subject / sentiment appears in your in-box.  Walking down the street today we were talking about tiny cars.  From comparing the footprint of a smart car to another (bigger) tiny car the subject moved to what we've seen of the new Fiat 500 and our inevitable grip about...

What the heck is up with car design today???  Why does everything have to look the same?  The smart car is hardly pretty,  but it's eye catching and fun. (I want my smart car shrink-wrapped to look like a roller skate!...MINE!)  The PT cruiser's appeal also had to have something to do with the vaguely retro (still not pretty) styling.  It looks like the new 500 will be following the herd as far as same old, same old,  (yawn) styling.

Why can't a car company do something with a little style & snap?  Like this:

 
  It's the same size as  the hot dog cart! 

 & I think it would fit lengthwise inside the crosswalk!  I love this car!

Even better,  I LOVE these CARS.

Why is it not possible to have cool cars today?

 
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Speak of the Devil-Car Design

I Love Men

This Designer?   Maybe not so much...Somehow it hasn't caught on like baggy pants.  But could it????

Is this the counter to strong, empowering women's fashions?  Infantilizing men's fashion?  Is it time?

Would love to know your thoughts.

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I Love Men

Wonder Woman Obsession

I am fascinated with the obsession over Wonder Woman's new costume.  While it's been years since I've been involved in the comics world,  mainstream or otherwise,  I am a big fan of Kaz and years ago did costumes for live appearances and book covers of many of Frank Thorne's characters.  From Ghita of Alizarr,   to Lann s2ex,   to Danger Rangerette,  as well as Red Sonja,  (hey, what on earth happened to that movie?) a character Frank took on after Barry Windsor Smith. - (Disclaimer; my sister is in many of the photos on this last link- & one day I may even post good scans!)  Actually, come to think of it,  the whole comic book thing may be the beginning of my decent into leather!

Do those leggings have a "mom" rise?

There's been some great debate going on about the new WW costume with tons of wild & great takes on it posted in various forums.   From Fan Art to Fashionistas,  the debate this has stirred up is inspiring.  Plus,  looking at all the permutations the costume has taken over the years,  is a lot of fun.

My favorite variation of the re-design, (at least the one that I could locate today) is this one,

I've looked everywhere for my real favorite, but there is no way to search these forums by images... so I can't post it here :(  realized I will probably never find it again... Someone closed up the neckline,  killed the jacket and got rid of the carpal casts, in favor of something...sleek & dangerous looking.  I believe they added boots,  something to break up that unrelenting black.   They also tweeked the belt /lasso- it just all worked much, much better as a take on this design.

My own take is either commit & cut the top LOW or commit and make her TOUGH and sexy,  I think if you have a body like this (or whoever they will cast in the movie) - skin tight ought to cover it.   I am thrilled that they thought to put her in leather,  but  a bad 1980's cropped biker jacket?  Why not the hair to go with it?  I am very happy they dumped the silly star-spangled briefs and super red boot combo.  But I think they completely wimped out in a lot of respects.  

And, in spite of all protestations on the various forums otherwise, (for practicality's sake, no less...huh?... for a comic book character?)  I think she needs some sharp, super high heeled wedge boots, either over the knee or maybe 3- 4 inches above the ankle, but fitted.  No gappy ankles & not the clunky shaped wedge, more like the curvaceous YSL wedge from maybe 2002- 2003.  Tough and sleek,  none of this middle of the road stuff,  she's Wonder Woman!

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Wonder Woman Obsession

High End Hanging by a Thread?

foto courtesy of flickr (creative commons license)

I was fascinated to read this article in the NYTimes last nite,  Is Italy Too Italian?.   It really just scratches the surface on a bunch of conundrums faced by specialized makers in Italy and elsewhere.  

For years Italy has had no real rules as far as country of origin goes on garment labels. As far as I have know items sold in Italy could be sewn in Slovenia yet marked   "Made in Italy"  this was very often the case with leather garments.  I've been approached by these same makers for production. Their minimums were not too high & the workmanship is incredible, yet I'd have to bring in garments labeled "Made in Slovakia" so I never entertained the idea. 

Prada and other companies based in Italy can label it "Made in Italy" even if all that is done in Italy is sewing on the buttons.  (This loophole somehow enabled A/X to have production made in prisons some years back.)  Ok, so there's one conundrum.  I feel for Mr. Barbera here as he is battered by this loophole already,  and still will be when the new law they are talking about goes into affect.

Then when I read the average cost per yard of Mr. Barbera's wools being $48.75 a yard,  it seemed very reasonable to me, since the rock bottom per yard equivalent when converted to leather winds up being about 1.5 times that & based on the average goods we use (ie: the stuff people order the most of) it becomes closer to 2 times that range.

While they do some vertical manufacturing,  and have their own collection of suits, it's definitely not a "fashion" line, (the styles chosen for Times slideshow do seem particularly outdated, why?)  which has got to be hurting some.   I also wonder how many distributors and mark-ups this wool goes through on it's way to becoming a finished piece with other companies?  The debt the NYTs notes cannot be entirely due to the guilds? Or can it?  That seems horrific and I kind wish they went a little deeper here- do their accounts pay in a timely fashion or is it slow death by aging?  Is it something else? Why isn't a company like this treated like a national treasure?

Carlos Barbera wool must be incredible.  The whole description of how the wool is treated,  it's truly an artisanal product.  I'd love to get to work with it one day.  I sincerely hope the tradition is not "Finito"  it would be a very bad thing,  and not just for Italy.  It is a form of art,  the knowledge,  the care and passion involved in creating something so special as this wool, that without chemicals or additives beyond it's "spa" time becomes a 'performance' fabric.

We needs purists like this.  We need quality like this.  Sure, it's not for everybody, but why should it  be?

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High End Hanging by a Thread?

Lucy Punch in Behrle NYC Leather

Still from "Dinner with Schmucks" courtesy M.Vogt

This is the Trinity Dress, featured on Lucy Punch in "Dinner with Schmucks",  in beautiful soft French patent leather.  It is reversible (V front or V back) and can be custom made in various leathers and colors.

It is available individually made-to-order as shown in standard sizes. 

Contact us Here with any questions or for an appointment.

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Lucy Punch in Behrle NYC Leather

Bearskins vs Stella McCartney

 I do admire Stella McCartney for sticking to her guns and being in the position to make some real impact.  However,  I don't admire the pushing of petroleum products that have a half-life of 50,000 plus years in a landfill.  I don't like the idea of bears (or any animal) being killed only for their fur,  but that is not the case here as the bears are culled for population control in Canada, which has a highly regulated fur industry.  

 photo of real Bearskin hats from Telegraph UK 2008 announcing contest for alternative bearskin

I expect these  bearskin (hats) when well taken care of,  last at least 10-15 years  and probably a great deal longer.  I would not be at all surprised if one guard has one hat, that lasts the entire lifetime of his career and is then handed down as a treasured family keepsake.  I don't imaging they are needing to make a gazillion of them either.

I have found PETA and it's like to be highly hypocritical over the years.  From the disrespectful open pit burials it promoted  & "gave" for old fur coats that could have been used to keep living people and  animals warm.  Yes, they did eventually figure that one out (first by adding coffins- took longer for the rest) but I think more as a result of bad press than reality.  They don't ever seem to take into account the damage of synthetic petrol based good that are inundating the world's landfills.  I know there are all sorts of hi-tech finishes that can make polyester microfibers "absorbent" but those are  chemical additions and "finishes".   (Think  surface,  faux,  temporary, and mostly,  chemical.)  Add to that the sheer volume of synthetics on the market, as well as  how long it actually lasts in real usage,  a month?  6 months?  A year?  On top of this we have such well informed fashion sites like Refinery 29 and Fashionista with their writers who have touted such a creature as "Organic Nylon".  ARRRGGH! 

For sure,  leather is not a blameless material, (almost nothing is any more)  from GM cotton on up.  But, from my perspective it's the waste involved in so much of manufacturing that is an even bigger issue.  Making thousands of units - that critical mass you need to keep the wheels greased today & make the shelves look full.  OMGod forbid, if Macy's and their ilk do not have their racks at 180% full of synth crap at all times,  you'd think we'd all drop dead! (... that is, if the polyester fumes on the 2nd floor on 34th street weren't enough to knock you down first!)

This is (very wrongly, I think) called the "economy of scale".  Anyone who has taken a serious old school business course knows that this economy of scale eventually collapses under its own weight.  It costs more and more to continue growing it & the arc flattens out.  Now we know that arc is not just a profit arc and  it is costing us all a whole lot more than just money.

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Bearskins vs Stella McCartney

Designer Abayas!

Interesting Article from Bloomberg on Harrods and Designer abayas,  even my other favorite leather designer Jean-Claude Jitrois is in on it! (Alaia & JCJ as far as their leather work, are about it...)
This is  a fabulous idea and honestly from what I can tell of the designs of these 2 sisters,  not far off from very luxurious, voluminous evening gowns,  1980's style.  They certainly don't look like what we here in the West associate with this encompassing garment,  and they are certainly a far, far cry from  burquas, which represents suppression to many people. 

I wonder what the rules are on prints, bright colors and head coverings?  The Das resort 2010 collection is very colorful and looks nothing at all like you would expect.  Very fashionable and elegant. Do they offer matching niqāb?   I would love to see the whole thing put together.

Abayas from DAS

I met a student once who was writing a thesis on full coverage Islamic dressing,  specifically burqas.  He was American of Middle Eastern decent and he dressed in a burqa,  in both the UA as well as in the USA - Middle America too, as I recall)  as part of his research.  He said he felt the whole experience was very disturbing & demeaning.  I don't know how much of this was because he was a man dressing in women's clothing in places it's strictly verboten,  the possibility of getting caught had to be quite scary.

...& uncomfortable,  since for the masses,  burqas are made of polyester - how there are not women expiring from heat stroke everyday is beyond me,  that's gotta be like wearing a full body plastic bag!

I wonder if burqas will ever become part of the "designer market" as well?

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Designer Abayas!

BehrleNYC at the Movies

A little leather project I did about this time last year for the movie "Dinner with Schmucks" is finally going to be out at the end of the month and we are very,very excited to see the results on the big screen.  It's signature Behrle NYC leather and apparently gets to do stunts!   On a gorgeous, fabulous person no less, and it sounds like its part of an integral sequence in the flick. (X-ing fingers here!) So should be fun!  (I will post a photo once the movie is out-  tho if you dig around on the web, it seems some have gotten out - how do they do that? or better question - really, is...how do they prevent that????

Recently, we rented the original "un dîner de cons" and even without subtitles (dead, on the disc we got) the little bit we sat through  looked very funny.  So.... Here's to summer movies & a BIG hit! I want everybody googling "leather + _____ + dinner with schmucks"!

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BehrleNYC at the Movies

Custom Made Wedding Dress Part 5

OK, I am back to this project...on to the back section now.

I chose a section of the center tablecloth medallion that allows for matching and seam allowance and inset the zipper on one side. Finishing the top edge as far as the point where the strap will be inset: 

zipper sewn on left, right is roughly pinned

The zipper has a plaquet to protect the skin from the teeth, and the bone of the underlining will butt up right against the zipper, but inside- between the layers:

left side stitched- right foundation layer

First,  I match up the lace overlay- it takes several tries to get it very close- nothing on this cloth is a perfect mirror since it is all hand embroidered:

 Right side, lace overlay only, pinned

I hand baste it & then I match up the body-underlay, the layer of cotton with the silk basted on:

 Body layer placed

Then the boned underlining/ foundation layer- each step gets hand basted:

Foundation layer, placed

How it looks from the inside:

How it looks from the inside

Both sides, matched & finished along top edge to strap inset point and turned the side panels wrap around and complete the back so lace is not yet hand-stitched down to body layer: 

At this point I'm thinking I can match the shaped edge of the medallion at the bottom to either the finished edge of the corset or to the seam attaching the bodice to the skirt- since still don't know if skirt is going to be absolutely attached. 

Next comes the really tricky part.

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Custom Made Wedding Dress Part 5