Thursday, February 21, 2008

Top 10 on Oprah-Laser Cut Leather for Spring

laser-leather-skirtlaser-leather-camisole
laser-leather-suitThanks to Jackie, for letting me know that a laser cut leather skirt is on Oprah’s short list of must have items for Spring. The skirt featured is a pretty bell shaped gored skirt of a simple laser lace pattern...I was flummoxed in my attempts to find any credits on Oprah’s website. I have a feeling it may have been over-budget for the feature. Laser cut leather, in a good quality, does cost.

I’ve worked a great deal in laser cut leathers, some that leave no way to sew in any traditional fashion due to so much open area- like this suit to the right. Instead they have to be worked more like fine lace or net. I’ve created various techniques to deal with this and retain a perfectly clean finished garment. (I also line all the very sheer lasers with silk chiffon, the pieces shown were unlined for editorial purposes.)

These techniques, in & of themselves add to the cost of working with laser cut leather. Also the detailing of the pattern can affect the price of the skin as very detailed patterns take much more time under the laser to complete. I don’t even want to think of what’s involved in creating the digital artwork required for such patterns!

A good European laser cut uses primo skins since whatever is left after cutting must withstand some stress and not rip easily. I know they are replicating some of these laces in Asia and other countries, but they tend to be incredibly easy to rip, since the skins used are just not the quality needed.

I hope as my business grows, I can do my own laser cutting one day, in- house. It will allow me the opportunity to really get creative with the process and do a lot of different things that could otherwise be done only in a massive manufacturing situation.


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Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Post-Apocolyptic Kids

diesel+thunderdome+ad+1
I love these new Diesel Kids ads inspired by Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome. Brought to my attention by Hell for Leather, a site that combines speed, style and leather (what more could you possibly want ?)


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Sunday, February 17, 2008

Leather for Spring!

I am thrilled that the NYT featured leather jackets today as a big must have for Spring. I wish they done more justice with the photos. Some of these jackets look like they could be quite nice. My favorite in the print edition is the "gwyn" jacket. Although looking at the slideshow, I like the idea far more than the actual jacket, with it's simplified Rick Owens inspired shape. I also like the white Robert Rodriguez jacket. But again, it's really hard to get any idea as to how it looks on. The photo makes it look blocky and like the sleeves are big tubes. Who knows? A little more time and care should have been taken to shoot all these jackets, rather than just throwing them on a 3D hangar. Nothing ever, ever fits those things.

For myself, for Spring, I think a jacket in a washable skin would be perfect. I have a pair of cropped pants in a washable. They are out of this world and I’ve worn them to death! I've done some for clients, but not enough. I think people can't believe leather can really be washable AND dryable in a machine. But it is, and it’s fabulous!
washable-leather-pants


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Friday, February 15, 2008

"The Angels wanna wear my Red Shoes"

Red ShoesI don’t care if they are plastic and cost 20 bucks! They are a size 5 and actually fit! I’ve been looking for a pair of red shoes forever! The last time I had a pair was probably when the song came out, those were Mary Janes too, but steel-toed for mom (what can I say- I was hard on stuff). God. I hated those things! Weird how things get back at you….


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Wednesday, February 13, 2008

More Leather Wedding Gowns

It’s been taking a long while to get back into the swing of things. Been sick as a dog with the flu. Seriously making me consider flu shots from now on- this is Nasty.

Tomorrow is Valentine' s day, so I’m gonna catch up a little with my non-traditional wedding dresses. Going through these, I really want to do more. Wedding dresses can be a lot of fun. Creative and challenging.


My favorite and most time consuming project ever was this dress;

leather-wedding-gown

It’s in a pearlized white leather coinmail that I make. It's lined with a pale pink silkchiffon and the matching veil is pink tulle edged with more coinmail. It’s trimmed with tiny pearlized pink and white hand-made leather rosebuds. The gown was inspired by Theda Bara and worn for a Moroccan themed wedding outside San Francisco.  More about this Dress.

taupe-leather-wedding-gown-2taupe-leather-wedding-gown-1


This dress was made for Thaler Bergin. She wanted a dress that would not be limited to being worn only for her wedding. It’s In a very unusual rich taupe color leather. It suited her coloring perfectly and the spiral cut of the dress gave it real movement and modern feel.

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Wednesday, January 30, 2008

East West Musical Instrument Co.

Fashion Incubator, over the last week posted two items about the East West Musical Instrument Company. These jackets were out of this world as far as design and craftsmanship. The HEIGHT of 1970’s art leather. Some fabulous photos and references and other info are included on F-I.
I knew very little about East West beyond having been handed an original years ago and asked to do a version if it. After which I met a guy who told me he sold the originals, and gave me the little bit of info I’d had on the line till now. I’ve only seen two of these original jackets in person and boy, are they AMAZING.
Here's a pix of an original. And here is my version, circa 1995- hope it stands up!

Swan Jacket

A few years later I was asked to recreate it again- this time for Victoria's Secret.
This is what the final result was...

Victoria's Secret Jacket
A lot different!
Literally, two days before the shoot (video for TV catalog, stills, the whole nine yards) the concept suddenly changed, from "Barbarella as a Vargas Girl" to " Apollo 13". Thank god the linings weren't in yet. We wound up re-cutting and re-constructing 5 jackets in under 48 hours! (then they lost a girl!) You can just barely see the wing details on the sleeves, and of course the wings on the back stayed, but we lost the fronts & had to kill the original collar, add cuffs and tailored waistbands and little hand painted name plates.
so Very NASA...
Victoria's Secret Supermodels

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My Mom

Eileen Behrle...was a very beautiful, very funny and very strong being. She passed away on January 22nd.

Thank you Mom, for being just crazy enough to, along with Dad, drag 3 kids across the US, Mexico and Canada in a 22 foot Winnebago every single year as we were growing up. (and for leaving the Winnie behind for various trips to Europe, Scotland & Puerto Rico…) You gave us amazing freedom and opportunities. I miss you. You are the best.
BehrleKidsMy parents continued to take a motor home Winnie(or something else) out somewhere every single year and would have surely continued.

Mom, May your new travels be sweet ones. We love you and are with you. We will keep Dad out of trouble for you.M&D
Love forever....

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Sunday, January 20, 2008

Dress of the Day... Yikes!

Bad Leather Dress I've not been here a while, I will be getting back on a more regular basis soon...A friend of mine sent me this link from StyleDash, and it really makes me wonder. I shudder to think that anybody could think this dress "hot". Did the writer get a freebie?(ugh) or is that absolutely the best she could come up with? I realize that coming up with a cool, good looking clothing item from the web on a daily basis is a tall order, but give us a break. I sincerely hope nobody is rushing out to purchase this, so what, (and no wonder...doh!) it's on sale?

Look, if you are going to buy ANY piece of leather clothing,

A) It should look like leather, not a trash bag.
B) It needs to fit properly.
C) If you need to, save up and spend more. You will be much happier.

An article of leather clothing should not even remotely look like the dress above. It should look like this:Good Leather Dress Later, when I can access my photos, I will put up a pix of a dress I did about 7-8 years ago which IS a HOT Zippered Dress!


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Sunday, November 25, 2007

Bespoke Leather Coat

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custom-leather-mens-coat-3
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I've finally got a pix of the coat I'd posted about earlier, the way it's supposed to be- on a body!

Thanks Diego, for loaning me the jacket to shoot and thanks Noel, for throwing it on. (I still want a pix of you in the jacket Diego, that does not change...)

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Saturday, November 24, 2007

Stretch Leather Leggings

Finally got some new stuff up in the shop. (I hate MIVA Merchant) My faves are the stretch leather leggings, which will go great with a sweater dress I am jonesing for, or under anything else for warmth and sleekness.

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stretch-leather-sleeves-behrle-nycsuede-fringe-hat



















& these long stretch leather sleeves and this nubuck hat, which was inspired by a hat I saw once on Larry Shox of Shox Lumania. It is really fun to wear, warm, and a lot more interesting than a knit cap.


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Friday, November 16, 2007

Divas in Leather

alicia-keys-in-leather-pantsIt's so funny- on I Tunes e-mail today they are featuring 3 of the powerful female artists I have designed for. Mary J. Blige, Alicia Keys (who was like 16 the first time I worked with her!) and Jill Scott! 3 ladies with great chops and style...

mary-j-blige-in-leather-by-behrle-nyc Left- Alica Keys in Behrle NYC (InStyle Magazine) Above- MJB in Behrle NYC (Us Magazine)

I wish I had some images of the of the skirt and jacket I made for Jill Scott for her Grammy awards performance, she was very cool to work with...


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Thursday, November 15, 2007

Leather and Other Art

Angelo Filomeno, an astounding artist working in silk & thread primarily, told me about an artist who’s work I had to see.
I finally got to look her up & it is the artist, who years ago- having seen one tiny, grainy black and white photo of her work, pretty much launched my fascination with all things leather.
… I will never forget that photo, the black leather head encased in leather and spiraling zippers that looked as if they might actually unzip like a peel, fascinated me. For ages, I obsessed over how a 3D piece like that might be made actually functional, without any molding- just the leather and zippers. (I love construction puzzles) I think it really informed my obsession with both leather and Fit. I could’t find images that particular head any where, but here you will find an interview with Nancy Grossman.

Nancy Grossman HeadsThe Third Mind" Palais de Tokyo, Paris

Now I must plug Angelo, he is an artist of the highest caliber. He "paints" (for lack of a better word) with embroidery. The scale and detail of his work is awe inspiring. And if you got a look at the process he goes through to create these incredible tableaux, they become even more incredible. I have never seen a photograph that can do justice to the work. You must see it in person. He was a featured artist in the Venice Biennale this summer, and I was very lucky to get to see the work in progress.

My Love Sings When the Flower is Near, Angelo FilomenoMy Love Sings When the Flower is Near (The Philosopher and the Woman), Angelo Filomeno 2007

For an idea of scale, these skeletons are at least life sized. The canvas is 13 feet high. This is the kind of detail he gets...with an old, completely hand-guided, industrial Singer embroidery machine. If you had any idea the kind of work this entails. Needless to say he does it all himself- no farming out of the work. You must see it in person.

Cold (detail) Angelo Filomeno
Cold (detail) Angelo Filomeno

Here is more of his work. He is represented by Galerie LeLong

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Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Subprime Explained


just a small digression...now, if only they will explain how the dollars drop in value will help sell more American made goods (to Americans?) - since they are so much cheaper now.
If it is made here, the raw materials more than likely aren't. (like mine, which are all out of Europe)

Prices go up.

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Friday, November 9, 2007

Romantic Gothic Wedding Gown

Here is a Wedding Gown created for Linda Marrota for her wedding to Kaz.
gothic-leather-wedding-gown
Linda is a Wiccan Goth Goddess (obviously!)… film & book reviewer for Fangoria magazine magazine and head buyer for Shakespeare and Co. books here in NYC.
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suede-skirt-behrlenyc
It's actually 2 pieces, a cordovan laced leather corset and a free-form suede skirt that drapes and fits as though it is bias cut.

It's one of the really unique wedding outfits I've had the opportunity to create (In leather or fabric- but more on that later...)


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Tuesday, November 6, 2007

Marty and Allison's Wedding

I don't think people think of leather first thing for wedding attire, but I've made quite a few leather pieces specifically requested for weddings. Most recently I made this classic suede shirt jacket for Marty to wear to his wedding to Allison. It was perfect for a late September outdoor wedding!
custom-made-suede-mens-jacket


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