Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Men's Pinstripe Leather "Clint" Jeans

A masculine version of my stitched pinstripe "Clint" jeans ( Yes, really a men's style...but I knew that.)

Heavyweight, full grain black cowhide.  Freehand stitching.  Hand-laced details.  Convertible zipped leg vents.

The Good and the Bad... (sorry Ugly)













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Rolex Leather Aviator Jacket Commission

Here is a recent custom commission of the Rolex Jacket, featured here  and here.  (Originally commissioned by Rolex for an advertisement.)

This one has  a real shearling fur collar and is a functional portrait collar cut, rather than the extreme (great looking, but very constricting for actual wear) off-the-shoulder cut of the editorial model in the advert.









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More Custom Made Leather Boot Pants

Continuing on with the new projects...The boot pants:

A gentleman with amazing taste and a ton of style, commissioned these.  The original concept was simple, but once I got started with the materials,  the bootmaker and the fittings,  the project took its proper form and the real construction and technical specifications took shape.

For these pants to be truly wearable and functional (and still look freaking amazing) a lot of articulation had to be built in to allow for sitting,  bending & movement. The leather is not stretch leather and I wanted a fashionable and masculine look.

I want these pants to elicit unconscious (and appreciative) double takes.  My client can carry them off.  As streetwear,  As fashion.  As a statement.  Not too many people can do that these days.  Confidence & real personal style,  is a powerful combination...




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Custom Made Leather Boot Pants


I have taken this rainy day to come up for air and get caught up here…(Note to self- Get help! HELP!) 
So I am simply going to post a series of recent projects, in no particular order.

First, the Concept sketch:


Next, the Details:









Tomorrow: the Finished Product on...

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Monday, March 8, 2010

Peanut Gallery at the Oscars!

Hey!  I actually watched the Oscars this year- almost from the beginning. (No Red Carpet Stuff- just the Oscars.)

So I will join the peanut gallery with my very brief- but not brief enough- take on the clothes!

Zoe Saldana is incredibly gorgeous and the top 2/3rds of her gown was too, until it hit that third tier, it looked like she was getting swallowed up into a black hole- very distracting. I kept waiting for some scary CGI to take place.

Carey Mulligan - Absolutely best outfit for a young “starlet”.  That term is weird, but it does express things better here than “young actress”. Expressing effusive individuality, style and taste all at once, a little elegant punky and very fun with those and wonderfully anachronistic (and insanely incredible) 1800’s earrings. BRAVO.

Best Dressed REGARDLESS:  Kate Winslet and Helen Mirren, Here are two women who know how to wear the clothes, rather than the other way around.

Kate’s silver two-piece sheath was so simple it shocked me - after the embarrassment of riches, it was simply breathtaking.

Helen Mirren’s cobwebby dress also suited her perfectly, an edgy confectionary - & kind of Tim Burton-y in a non-CGI way (Have they worked together yet?), and GOD her hair is beautiful! (I have been going grey since I was 23 and it has yet to commit properly!)

Other:

I was fascinated with Jennifer Lopez’s dress, the texture and shape, I couldn’t have cared less about her hips- or who wore it, it was about the dress here. The DRESS WAS AWSOME

I did not like the Amanda Seyfried version of the bubble wrap, it threatened to swallow her whole. Way, way too much dress for her.

Sigourney Weaver’s red dress was the best of the reds- the color was incredible and the shape did not detract or distract from the woman.

Meryl Streep - was a church lady, oddly frumpy- white is a great color for her, but the outfit was not flattering.

Vera Farmiga’s dress enthralled/fascinated me while she was sitting but it was a bit overwhelming when standing up– I kept wondering how she managed to snag that front row seat so people wouldn’t have to climb over her. The color was incredible, so was the dress.

Rachel MacAdams, wore a ton of dress, it worked! Beautifully.

Sarah Jessica Parker – not so much. Trying too hard?  It looked harsh and a bit tricky.

Charlize Theron?  Did not even work in a far shot.  Read badly - too literal.  She could've done much better.  She's got strength, character and incredible beauty,  she needs to own a look or own herself.

It kinda reminded me of when I did costumes for comic cons when I was a kid - my sister, who was my model got VERY frustrated when she realized that nobody was looking at (or talking to) her, while she was in costume.  However,  this is not the point at a Comic Con and your hero is William Ware Theiss! (Look it up)

Hey, But we got back at them all when that guy tried to grab her ass in the elevator, since all the links in that armor thong were wrapped in brass wire that had the sharp cut edges facing outwards. (Doh!) Bloodshed occurred.


I don't think that plays at the Oscars.


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Thursday, February 11, 2010

Long Live McQueen

McQueen-RIP 

I,  like so many others right now,  am immensely shocked and saddened by the news of Alexander McQueen's suicide.   He was an incredible and prolific talent who's work transcended fashion and became art.

The World, ( & not just the Fashion world) has lost a creative wellspring and tremendously inspiring force for the future.

Anytime you have someone of such far reaching creative and thinking talent, who is able to get their work out there so fearlessly, and project their inspiring vision so clearly, it is truly a gift to us all.

He elevated Fashion with Thought & incredible Beauty, a beauty sprung from unlikely  & often dark & surprising places, provoking more thought.  His work demanded a response on the part of both the wearer and voyeur.  His ability to make the most unlikely,  ungainly & sometimes unwearable article of clothing into a coveted garment conveying fetishistic powers (all meanings apply here) was astonishingly visceral… it was like he could feel our veins vibrating and tap into them.

Alexander McQueen, was a gift to all of us.  My heart goes out to Him, his Family, Friends and everybody he touched with his life & work.  We have lost a true artist. We have lost a vision.
May he live on forever in his power of inspiration.

RIP


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Not Lady Gaga...Lady WTF ???

A friend of mine just bought this to my attention:
This designer (who I have never heard of and who appears to have some design background) "created" these nice leather leggings:


bold-faced-lie

Except, well…maybe not…

ackermann-leather-leggings


Now, Leather leggings are neither new or original,  just about every line out there has done one variation or another by this time. You can make a decision where to buy them based on many, many points. Be it label, price, fit, quality, whether you like the designers work, overall vision, presentation, ethics, or values,  if they are lean (as in green), mean or what-have-you - you name it.  More power to YOU.

Actual WORK has a lot to do with it too,  since based on the evidence the "designer" of these leggings may not actually have ever made a pair that looks even remotely like this, ( let alone in leather) since she simply clicked on a photo and swiped it off the internet.  And so, while there are no laws that prevent anyone from making yet another pair of leather leggings, there are VERY clear cut laws regarding the PHOTOGRAPHER'S work. 

My favorite part of this is the sales pitch!  It's like one of those bad acia diet pill pitches that was going around for a while- Limited one time offer! Just 83 cents a day!!!! But no mention anywhere of actual price. And...

Not only that - 5 Days to TEST DRIVE!   Really?

Test Drive??? Who would want to risk getting a pair of somebody's "Test Driven" Leather leggings! 
I know how people like to wear this stuff!!!!

COMMANDO!!! (see if the stretched out camel toe profile fits yours...? Hey, go for it!)

Must read the corny cheesy sales pitch on the "LadySpy"  pants…very funny-sad. 


bizarre sales pitch

Your Thoughts?


 full size image link here 

(If ANYBODY can give me a hint re: why I can no longer get a Link to my full size image going 
here I would greatly appreciate it. )



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Thursday, February 4, 2010

Custom Made in the New York Times


 In the New York Times today is a great article about custom-made clothing!

I am so excited to see an article extolling the joy and value in owning something that is truly custom made!  And it points out that custom made is often less expensive than say a designer limited edition from a boutique.  Since more of what you spend will go directly into the craftsmanship and the materials,  rather than third party mark-ups, which adds no real value to the finished piece, that is, unless you enjoy label dropping, insert Gucci, Pucci (or whatever brand) here...

It also very clearly (I think) explains the differences between actual custom made, vs. made-to-order, customized and made-to-measure. 

I just wish I was more hooked in since, had I known,  I probably could have gotten a little mention....

As it is I am thrilled that more and more people will become aware of,  and perhaps now consider having something custom-made.

addendum: I just realized I met David Colman, who wrote the article, when I had my shop in TriBeCa - jeeze I gotta get more hooked in and on top of stuff!  Seriously!

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Thursday, January 28, 2010

What is Good Design?

This subject has come up repeatedly over the past few months as I have been informally helping a friend navigate their way thought the complex and confusing morass of getting a website designed & made.

Having lived through (an ongoing process btw) a ton of trial and error scenarios, massive amounts of research and even taking a basic (pretty darn hardcore, to me!) html class, since my site first went up. A dear friend, asked me what to look for in a designer & what was important in a site, and what to look out for.

I hoped to help him avoid some of the pitfalls.

He went through the seeking a designer process - nightmarish in itself, especially when you are a creative person talking a different language to an often purely technical person who thinks they are a "designer". This was very difficult as my friend is a highly creative person, but seriously clueless when it comes to anything, and I mean anything technical. Basic explanation of SEO, html, code, analytics, etc - he sorta gets it but....

However, one thing that he got, and got immediately was the fact that the site had to be searchable and indexed on Google. It is his business after all.

He falls in love with an incredibly visual designers work. It's Flash of course, I tell him no flash, or only a little. The designer explains it's fairly a new "searchable" Flash. And sends along tons of documentation and very detailed explanations of how it works. I look into it, my friend looks into it and lo! sure enough it is a searchable form of flash. We check out other sites using this and they do come up in search. Tons of questions to designer (and more research on our end) mostly regarding HOW searchable. Repeatedly the answer is it's searchable AND deep linkable. WOW!

He goes with this designer, it's an information heavy site, He's writing his text with key words, search text etc, etc. Everytime he's on the phone with the designer search and accessibility comes up at least 3 times, every e-mail it's re-iterated. OVER AND OVER & OVER AGAIN.

After 3-4 months, of a ton of work on the "designers" end (obviously,the guy worked hard) for my friend (hair pulling and something akin giving birth), as well some loss of respect on my part, because I do not like repeating myself, ad nauseam, because of a serious intransigence on the part of my friend against organization, writing things down, looking them up or even making the effort to try and think out and extrapolate from what he has already learned. So I feel a bit abused for my efforts on this count, but it's over now. Thank God.

So anyhow, Site goes up, site is gorgeous. Two months later, 2 hits on actual site. Friend wants to punch a wall (In lieu of designer) and so do I. Site is DEAD IN WATER and UNSEARCHABLE. Other Gaia Framework sites we see on web are infinitesimally searchable and indexed on google, JUST EXACTLY AS DESIGNER INSISTED THIS ONE WOULD BE. WHERE IN ALL THIS DID DESIGNER NOT HEAR, READ AND UNDERSTAND THE CLIENTS UTMOST NEED?

THIS IS NOT GOOD DESIGN it is a ART PROJECT. The "designer", from a highly regarded IT school (specializing in web "design") was not was taught even the basic premise of GOOD DESIGN! Neither of us feel it was a scam, or intentional on the "so called" designer's part, but a complete F*%k up on "designer's" part. But now my friend has to wait several months for it to be corrected????

Design, must also function. It is not divorced from whatever practicalities and needs brought it into existence. Design is also commerce. A house no one can live in is not a house.

Years ago I knew another fashion "designer", who was asked by a store to design them some special mannequins for display. She was super creative and the perfect flighty airy "designer" type that people get so enthralled with at times. She kept her project under complete wraps, designed and had custom-made several 10' tall, to-scale, articulated mannequins. Surprise! She actually got them to the shop and set up in the window, before it dawned on her...

Design is different from Art. ART is approached consciously as such and is not beholden to function. ART usually becomes becomes commerce after the fact. Art needs no function beyond it's existence. DESIGN serves a FUNCTION and is usually created in Pursuit of that function, whatever it may be. Design embraces and makes use of technology and craftsmanship with an understanding of both aesthetics and use. Design makes the ordinary extraordinary, it can makes the mundane a joy. Design brings ART into the everyday world and is accessible to everyone.

DESIGN bears a burden. Whether that be to make someone look fabulous & feel great through fashion. Or to create a beautiful AND FUNCTIONAL web page, that people will SEE.


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Thursday, January 21, 2010

Nice Work if you can get it.

My friend Karin sent me this  photo of this very cute Giles Deacon bag:
 




( I will refrain from comment on the pants....)

& I do think the bag is even cuter in solid white.

...but it sure looks suspiciously like this plush toy by Wild Republic that's "Licensed by the Natural History Museum and approved by NHM Paleontologists." as noted on the smaller version available on Amazon.  I wonder if  NHM or WR will see any licensing fees should this bag go into production? 


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Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Disappeared on Yelp?

I have had my curiosity piqued. Yesterday I got a call from someone at Yelp! for business, and was pitched this very comprehensive sounding (& quite pricey) advertising plan on Yelp!  Initially I understood it to be a plan with a 2 month minimum term.  

Turns out that's not the case, it's actually a 2 month cancellation fee, "like a cell phone plan", said the salesperson.  (make that Very Pricey) So sitting down to do a little research,  you immediately find all these Yelp! conspiracy theory kind of links... But,  ideally you'd like to find a real, live, local business that actually has one of these "enhanced" listings,  but so far in my casual perusal of Yelp!  I have not found one of these.  I did ask for referrals but got none. Perhaps I did not press enough.

Anyhow,  then I go in to take a look at my regular (as in free) listing, which currently gets an absurdly, measly one view a week.  (I know this from a weekly e-mail update I get from Yelp! business, but how do I know, really?  It is rather pitiful, for all the build-up Yelp! gets.) 

And LO, the reviews my business had are GONE! POOF! & DISAPPEARED, as if it was Argentina in the 1970's. Weird,Weird.

I am just really curious now, I would love to hear from any actual (especially NYC, local) businesses who have tried "enhanced" advertising on Yelp!  Seeing that my existing reviews have disappeared, does not bode well,  but BOY, do I wish I had a salesperson like the one from Yelp!

Update 1/14/10: Just got off the phone with Yelp!, and I was HUNG UP on when I pressed to find out why my reviews had disappeared and wanted a better explanation than "filters" to prevent spamming.  I am sorry,  a few reviews does not constitute spamming  (how come they weren't filtered immediately if this was the case? Why disappear months down the line?)  The excuse that the reviewers may not be "very active" reviewers does not hold water either,  since I ran across one review - indexed on Google - long, long  before I ever signed up for Yelp! business in March 2009.  Then too, if Yelp! is partial only to those users who post tons of reviews,  isn't that a bit skewed in and of itself?  It kinda becomes more of a popularity contest for the reviewers than a useful tool,  especially for smaller businesses.


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Tuesday, January 12, 2010

The Real Connoisseurs

I came across this last night, on a West Coast artist's blog, I am not exactly sure how I got there, it is one of those serendipitous things I suppose. This guy does a bit of everything! comic book anime graffiti flare and then some. Thanks to Peabe for bringing these women and their work to my attention.


We Continue in the Old Style from John Rory Fraser on Vimeo.

(Update March 29, 2010  The missing video is a beautifully done and fascinating clip on Paul's Hatworks out of San Francisco.  My bad mistake not listing the details originally.  Really it's sad the video has been made private,  it's wonderful and more people should know about them.  Their blog is here.)

Hatmaking like this, in this country, is just about a lost art.  There are costume shops and individual artisans keeping it alive in fragments.  But to get a hold of an intact business like this, with all the blocks and machinery, with the intent of keeping it intact and continuing the tradition, and the techniques… well, these girl are simply HEROS to me.  BEAUTIFUL.

Everything they say regarding price, quality, longevity and their clientele is 100% on it.  I have always found men to be the real, true clientele for custom work,  the special and unique and one-of-a-kind pieces. 

Counter to what most people would expect,  Men are the true connoisseurs here.


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Thursday, December 31, 2009

Are you eating Pink Slime?



 Photo from the NY Times


I read this article from the NY Times too early this morning,  and it has left me feeling  nauseous ever since.  

I suspect this feeling will continue for quite some time, and it will guarantee I will never, ever again eat a hamburger that  I have not made myself, from meat the butcher has ground from one cut, right in front of me, where I can see it.  

(I may relax this rule should I ever move to Argentina, where food is treated with a great deal more respect. but here...)

I know this is not a New Years subject, but well.... how about drinking pickle juice as a hangover cure?  No?  I didn't think so...

Thankfully  we don't eat anywhere remotely like what I suspect is considered the average American diet, so this will not be a change so much as an even more conscious avoidance...

I am worried for my cats, who we affectionately call  "can"-ivores since they basically refuse to eat anything that does not come out of a can- seriously,  you know they ingest far, far  more "meat" than we ever would.

What is bizarre, and what Danny comment on immediately is the nowhere in the article does it even mention or consider  the toxicity of Ammonia, yet the FDA has approved the injection of  ammonia as a treatment of the "PINK SLIME"  that is added to the so called "meat" that is used in schools for hamburgers and the like to feed CHILDREN?

Approved it to the point that they considered the "beef product" exempt from INSPECTIONS? Ammonia at such High levels that it could be smelt in FROZEN chunks of the stuff? AND YET NOT LISTED AS AN INGREDIENT?

WTF?  Why don't we get the CPSIA on their ass?  While they are on their way to regulating small domestic manufactures of children's products out of business because of phalate and lead dangers, (dangers overwhelmingly found found in products made oh, in China?  As if  they stand a chance in Hell of actually regulating anything that comes from China?)  CPSIA should instead take on AMMONIA LEVELS in FOOD that kids (and adults) are being FED.  

The chances of ingesting an ammonia-tainted  hamburger, (or many) is obviously far more likely,  than eating say, a metal button from any country,  at any age.  Pink Slime just won't choke you.

Happy New Year & Enjoy your Fish and Tofu....uhhhh....wait a minute....




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Thursday, December 17, 2009

New One-of-a-Kind Leather Jackets and Coats

Some new pieces are up in the shop (on Sale!)  and more will follow shortly. None of these pieces were ever produced in the skins shown so they are truly one-of-a-kind.

While these specific pieces are only available in the shop as shown and in sample size 2,  these styles can be made up in other leathers and sizes up to an 8 on a made-to-order basis,  or variations may be completely custom-made to fit you.

These jackets feature just some of the unique, limited-edition & exotic leathers we have found in the past.  The selection of these type of skins changes continually, so there is always something new and wonderful.

If you are interested in made-to-order or custom-made in any of these styles, or have any questions, please feel free to contact us.  Please note that the original (pre-mark down) prices on these styles are based on the specific leathers shown (that are no longer available) and will vary on made-to-order or custom-made pieces.

Also for the rest of the year all orders shipped in the US will be shipped free,  via US insured priority mail.   Just enter FreeShip09 at checkout.


















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Coming up for Air

I sort of fell of the charts since Thanksgiving and I apologize.   This always becomes a crazy time of year, almost without fail! Beyond all the family and business commitments & deadlines there are always unexpected things popping out of the woodwork!

One thing I am very excited about is this wonderful write up I got in The Wearable Art Blog. This blog features artisans & designers of textile, jewelry & other creations for the body (or not!).  If you are at all interested in hand-crafts, jewelry textiles and art, you should put aside some time to peruse The Wearable Art Blog.

Sandi has showcased great selection of unique, beautiful and lovingly created pieces and has searched out and featured artists from all over the world. She is truly dedicated to raising awareness and building up appreciation of amazing handmade design.  I am honored to be included here.

…I was really fascinated with this feature on a designer who works strictly in the realm of Second Life!  Very, very  appealing to the former Trekkie / Costume Con aficionado in me, but I could not in a million years imagine working without handling and feeling the actual materials in my hands. That would be torturous for me!


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