Whose side are they on?

I met with a prospective intern Friday. They came to me on their own to see if we could do a credit internship. Their school is one of the big Fashion schools here in NYC, the so called "Fashion Capital of the World". The school did not direct them to me, since they requested an internship opportunity that would provide them with "hands on" experience. Apparently- the school basically told them - you're on your own since "nobody does that" anymore.

When you have an "industry" school completely discounting an entire class of independent & entrepreneurial and skill-based businesses in this city and beyond we are in a very, very sad state. Fashion is not all Illustrator croquis that you can punch up, mix and match and send to China with a spec sheet. I feel this is very misguided, and shows a real lack of support for these businesses and local industry as a whole.

Nobody does that anymore? Perhaps they mean Carlos Falchi,  Koos Van Den Akker, and many others?

Have they seen Etsy? All the smaller makers, creating unique and limited edition items at all price ranges. All the buzz on Brooklyn Designers? Not to mention all small makers from everywhere else in the world. Because of Etsy there is a new and nascent class of local, hand-made and specialty production businesses. EVERYWHERE. Turning out an amazing range of beautiful jewelry, (more on that later) clothing, corsetry, leather work, furniture, you name it. This is a whole new world, and it is not just people working at their kitchen tables.

The WSJ notes here that the biggest growth in the Luxury market is coming not from "the rich", but from "the Aspirationals" & "Newcomers".

I think a lot of this is also because people, across the board are sick of disappointing purchases. They want things they can enjoy for more than a single seasonal (or laundry) cycle. If it means spending more, -fine- in the end it lasts longer and is a much more satisfying -and personal- purchase.

It is up to us to support local, independent & entrepreneurial and skill-based businesses. Here in NYC, in Brooklyn or wherever you are.

Whose side are they on?

Auspicious-ness for 2011

Happy 2011!

Maybe it's Auspicious -I haven't read up- but we have a lot of these singular trinities this year and since it'll only happen once in our lifetimes, I'll take it as such!!!

I want to thank all my amazing customers & friends. Those of you who found me via the interweb these last few years and those of you who discovered me in my Tribeca shop, or even earlier…I am so honored…some of you even go way back to the very beginnings of World Domination! (I'm not telling)

It's really amazing for me when a customer from my pre-web days looks me up and I get a call or an email telling me they still have and wear pieces I made them 10, or more, years ago.  I have never believed in planned obsolescence, I believe in STYLE and my customers have it in SPADES!!!!

It's been so great to re-connect with SO many of you these last couple of years.
I did not make it easy initially- some of you were persistent above and beyond the call of duty, and I thank you for it!

& to my new customers, the ones who have found me strictly via the web- You have opened up a whole new world, for me & for my business.  I have gotten to "meet" so many interesting, cool, stylish & discriminating individuals.

All of you are true connoisseurs.  Keep it up.

 

Auspicious-ness for 2011

Rolex Jacket Icon- Mystery Solved?

I was so happily surprised to open up a copy of Elle magazine and find
a new picture of my leather Aviatrix jacket that was commissioned by Rolex for a campaign themed around the Rolex watches worn by historical icons.

Jacket By Carla Dawn Behrle/ BehrleNYC, for Rolex

Then, moments later I got an email from the stylist in Rome telling me it is also featured on the back cover of V magazine!  Double surprise.  I am very glad this campaign has been so successful,  especially since both the stylist and I thought this particular shoot was not going to see the light of day.

The model is incredible, (I personally love this variation…) the photo is incredible and of course the Icon is a pure American Legend.  I think the photo brilliantly captures so much of the spirit of the legend. The adventure, the strength, the dreams and the goals.

The timing is wild too since the mystery of Amelia Earhart’s disappearance seems closer to being solved than ever…

For information on purchasing a  Made-to-Order or Custom Made variation of this jacket Please contact me directly via this link.

I am  unable to respond directly to comments left anonymously.  If you do want to comment
( I love comments!)  and and would like a direct response rather than just a comment on this blog.
You do need to provide an e-mail in the email field.   It will not appear here at all, it remains completely private. Promise.

Rolex Jacket Icon- Mystery Solved?

Leather Blooms for the Holidays...

I hope these put you in a festive mood!  Between the usual crunch of the season I managed to dig out some beautiful skins that I've been collected over the years.  These are skins that I do not have enough to make any type of garment or regular item with,  and the leather is just too special to not do something with.

We put together some pieces... all inspired by an accessory we did years ago for Patricia Field.  Here is a start.

And we are trying something new here.  Buy Now from the blog...

Flowers ship to US,  for other destinations please contact us.

Exotic Orchid Fascinator 
Only 6 available as shown.  Hand made in NYC. Petals and blades are individually wired.
 Blossom can be contoured to highlight your features.

$165.00

Rose Band
( Forget about Alice!)

This band can be made to order in any combo of 2 of roses above.
(Each piece is individually Hand made in NYC)
from left: Cherry, Jewel Purple, Black Suede, Silver Shimmer
These colors are limited editions,  and once gone- they can't be repeated...
$145.00

color

black suede/ cherry black suede/ jewel purple black suede/ silver shimmer

Solid color- please specify

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Leather Blooms for the Holidays...

Custom Made Leather Jeans; the Process

Custom-Made is different from Made-to-Order.  Made-to-Order is where an existing pattern is cut with small modifications to the original fit.  Or it can be a standard pattern cut in a non-standard fabrication.

Custom made is specifically cut & tailored to fit one individual  body.
Bespoke is specifically men's wear (English).  Haute couture is  specifically women's wear (French).  Both are individually cut and fit custom- made garments. 

At Behrle NYC,  This is how we make all our men's jeans.  (We do made-to-order in women's styles only).  I am always asked if we do Custom-Made via mail order.  The answer is YES.

The Process:  for Mail Order.

Please contact us via the contact form and include your email address.

You may provide a brief description of what you are looking for - color/style, etc. 

We will contact you for additional information & then send you a measurement chart with instructions and a diagram showing you how to measure. You can take this to a tailor or fill it out yourself- (it's best to have help). The more info you can provide - the better.  We are here & happy to answer any questions.

Send back the completed chart back along with 3 clear photos taken in a well fitting pair of pants- stand straight and relaxed. We need to see front, side and back (full length or torso to floor- it doesn't matter)

We send an invoice for deposit via Paypal (payable within credit card)   Once the measurements & photos are is received, along with your deposit, we start on your muslin, (aka a "toile") which is a cotton fitting garment.  

In approx a week to 10 days (depending on the season) you will receive your muslin/toile along with swatches of leather (based on your preferences),  pins & instructions on how to fit.  You will try it on and mark &/or pin any changes/adjustments and again provide clear photos as before. (front, side and back.)  This way we can see any additional adjustments that will allow us to perfect and customize the fit to you.  You return the marked pinned muslin with your choice of leather noted.
 
Pattern is corrected & finalized before anything is cut in leather. When pants are done we let you know and invoice the balance which is due before we to ship.

Working by mail order occasionally requires a second muslin, so rush projects will not be accepted by mail.   3-4 weeks is minimal time frame for mail order, depending on the season.  The final shipping charges will vary according to method and location.

We have a standard price range for classic men's jeans that is based on a limited range of currently popular leathers.  However, since Leather prices and availability are subject to change we do not list prices here. You must contact us for current information. 

Stretch leather, exotics, specialty finishes & details like cordovan lacing, contrast top stitching, appliqué and inlay work are not part of this basic range. These are estimated on a per project basis and the time frame on specialty projects vary accordingly.  For More information please see our FAQS page.

 More Examples of Our Custom Made and Specialty Leather Work.

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Custom Made Leather Jeans; the Process

Follow the Bespoke

 

How Saville row has evolved (or not) can be a good lesson for US specialty makers & this is a 

great read from WWD Men.

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Follow the Bespoke

Leather Mirage

Thank You Mirage Magazine!  For the beautiful editorial page featuring our WD Leather Dickie.  Which goes two- ways,  (fetish or functional).  I like to wear it in the fall & winter under a coat instead of a scarf.   Not quite as bold a statement as it is here!   It's unisex and currently made to order.

 Inquire here.

 

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Leather Mirage

Save the Garment Center Jobs Rally

I LOVE the Sign in the middle- would frame it in my studio!

Went to the 2nd "Save the Garment Center" Rally earlier today,  and want to thank Michelle Vale for introducing me to Erica Wolf (of Nanette Lepore) who has been in charge of organizing STGC.  Today's rally was a jobs rally and there were impassioned speakers from all walks of the industry.  (Contact me!  I will make myself available to help!)

I  applaud  Mr. "Central" Park's  (I pretty sure that's what he called himself at the end of his speech!) observation that many of his factory workers have, over the years,  gone on to open their own factories.  To paraphrase Mr. Park : "Do you ever see a Starbuck's worker go on to open their own Starbuck's???"  

You could replace Starbuck's with Kinko's, Duane Reade, McDonald's and any other  large chain and it would be just as true.   I would add  that Starbuck's does not teach concrete skills to anyone past maybe a manager or 2- and frankly I question those skills, having seen Starbuck's managers completely bomb out when taken out of the Starbuck's culture. 

I also liked Roger Cohen's idea of making USA made clothing non-taxable,  just one of many ideas we should fight for to strengthen US Manufacturers.

BTW- Michelle Vale Handbags are incredibly made and highly detailed, luxury leather handbags -many with customizable hardware,  that are all made right here in NYC.  I had the pleasure of meeting her and her husband (and partner) after last week at Afingo's "Behind the Seams" event. ...Looking forward to the next one.

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Save the Garment Center Jobs Rally

Blown Away by the Future of Fashion

I am just blown away by this video,  which came to my attention via BOF.   I truly agree &  really believe,  that this is the future of fashion.  In one fell swoop it renders the idea of showing on a runway obsolete.  And it raises the bar of the art tremendously.

Gareth Pugh S/S 2011 Collection - Director: Ruth Hogben from SHOWstudio on Vimeo.

As a designer, who has done several shows and one large Fashion week production -  I don't think it is optimal for showing the clothes,  communicating the concept or getting the audience.  You are subject to the vagaries of ...oh, the weather, the scheduling,  your PR,  your guests - which celebrity is going to show up...?  The press that shows up - or doesn't.  The models.  The shoes.

As Pugh notes in this story...if a model falls,  "that's an enduring moment".   There are a billion things completely out of your control!  Not good for a designer's temperament at all.

I think beautifully creative presentations like this along with still presentations,  still photography and showroom appointments are the next direction.  Besides "Zombie-faced models" in runway shows can't be gone soon enough for me.

I love the black and white sections and the op-art print and was astounded by the down filled op-art piece (brilliant!) which is, believe it or not,  the exact same cut as this:

  Fur-to-velvet reversible square

It's wonderful, the difference the volume makes.

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Blown Away by the Future of Fashion

This is JUST WRONG!

What's next?  "Pederasta" Pants?
(Yes, I purposely misspelled that too...)

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This is JUST WRONG!

BehrleNYC at the Vendy Awards

For those of you Lucky enough to have a ticket to tomorrow's 2010 Vendy Awards,  eat up & have a blast!

A celebration of the the best street food vendors in NYC (and Philly too this year) ranging from Venezuelan to Austrian to French Moroccan and on to Desserts!

We were not able to snag a ticket   :(    but one of our bags did!   This one-of-a-kind, unisex, Springbok & leather BehrleNYC messenger bag will be part of the raffle,  so if you are there,   buy a ticket to support all the best Street food vendors & the Street Vendor Project of the Urban Justice Center.  NYC just would not be right without it's street vendors.   If you are lucky you may wind up with a bag perfect to hit the street with this Fall!

& taste a little of everything for us!!!

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BehrleNYC at the Vendy Awards

Celebrating Fashion Week & My Birthday Week. 15% off.

Here is little Belated Fashion Week Love and a little something to celebrate my Birthday!  

Which usually goes completely by the wayside due to the combo of time of year plus Fashion week!

Now, through Monday the 20th of September take 15% off your entire order in the online shop with code FWNY2010.  Includes Sale Items & Made to Order items!!!!  (Made to order delivery times are specified in the store)

This discount will also be applied to any New (in-person) Custom Made items with First appointments booked by Sept 20th and with First fitting completed with deposit placed by September 30th 2010.  Mention you read it here, or on Twitter or FB and include the code when calling or emailing.

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Celebrating Fashion Week & My Birthday Week. 15% off.

Size Lies & Why it's called Custom Made

I do custom made, via mail order,  all the time.   I get requests for this service from all over the world.  It is not a simple process and requires work on the clients part as well.  It entails a pretty detailed list of measurements needed from the client (supplied with an equally detailed set of instructions). 

It can be filled out by the client, with help of a friend or tailor, and I make myself available to help via e-mail or phone.  I make mostly pants this way.  I have done much more complicated pieces like Catsuits and Jackets via the mail,  but I want at very least one in-person fitting on these types of projects! 

When clients see the chart,  many US clients,  in their initial panic upon seeing it  (Pl-eeze, it is 2 pages including instructions!) is:  "But my my jeans size is______"

The answer to that one is HERE.  Courtesy of  Esquire's Excellent Style Blog. 

It should be required reading.   It is true for both Men's & Women's jeans.

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Size Lies & Why it's called Custom Made

Custom Made Cutwork Linen Wedding Dress Parts 6 & 7

Yikes!  It'll be my one year anniversary if I finish up this series at the rate I am going. 

Ok,  here we are almost September and I've been married almost 3 months- which is over 2 months longer than this dress took to finish!  I had a couple of very fortuitously quite weeks in May, so I took the time and made it into a luxury for myself and started this project.  I have not worked in fabric in ages so it's a little bit of a treat (plus a p.i.t.a. since I am not set up for it)  &  7 Is the halfway point.

 
While it's not leather,  it is still a fair overview of what can be involved in the making of a fine and truly custom-made garment.  And the many (often unexpected) problems and solutions that come into play in during the construction of  specialty custom made items.

I won't go to much into detail, it bores me completely now so I can imagine from your end. (But I am going to finish this series and that is probably the end of my experiment into following the "process")

As for this project, it is my tiny contribution to keeping very specialized & fine construction out there.  Enough!

notice;  there is a seam that will be boned  in the middle of the under layer
aka- sewing yourself into a corner.




inside view of seam before boning


boned


basted to stitch-inside



basted to stitch-outside




God forbid the strap needs shortening...

But that's what the muslin is for.  

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Custom Made Cutwork Linen Wedding Dress Parts 6 & 7

The Word of Luxury, or Cars and Girls

In Fashion or branding, what do you think of when you think of Luxury?   Is it Hermes?   Or perhaps Louis Vuitton?   How About American Eagle or Urban Decay?   How is it that ALL of these things have been labeled at one point or another as "Luxury"?  

Really, what is it?  Is it D & G masquerading as Forever 21:

Or is  it a $75,000.00 Balmain crocodile jacket?
Is it exclusivity?   Or something more like this?   If you've watched this movie  you'll have drooled over seriously fantastic luxury in a big way!


Is it what you receive from it?  Sheer pleasure or pure bragging rights?  A new Ferarri or an original 1965 Shelby? 

 How about a 1957 Ferrari?

( Is this not the epitome of Luxury?  Better yet if you drive it daily!  Dammit, why can they DESIGN cars like this anymore???)  

Or is it… (as the old song goes) A Winnebago??? Heck a HERD of Winnebagos!  (Disclaimer later) or  a baby's arm holding an apple…?


Luxury could mean the freedom of this…

 Fee Waybill as QuayLude

Or this…

 Daphne Guinness as... Daphne Guinness.

Luxury,   it means a lot of things to a lot of different people. Indefinable, elusive, emotional, visceral, shallow & at the same time incredibly vital.


It is continually evolving & expressing & Inspiring.

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The Word of Luxury, or Cars and Girls