Sunday, January 30, 2011

Adventures with a Cutwork Tablecloth, part 8

Looks like I am not going to get this series done before the Honeymoon! I will try and condense it a bit and stick mainly to pictures.

I left off at the almost finished bodice here.  Now to finish it off:

oops, remember to change needles when working with silk chiffon!
Clean finished Bodice.

Since this is a corset that is cut at the waist, it will dig into my hips if not tabbed, Tabbing also prevents what could be called "reverse" muffin-top.  The tabs - one side is silk over canvas to prevent any possibility of show through on skirt.

The tabs are simply finished on the merrow machine for less bulk and hand stitched to top of inside binding edge.  A waist stay tape is added to keep bodice snug and anchored and prevents it from riding up.

This is the inside of the finished bodice:
Prussian tape zip pull for fittings - only way I am able to zip it up without help!
Now to tackle the skirt, which as shown here is a huge rectangular swath of embroidered linen, the center section of which made up the bodice embroidery. (you can see the curved edges in some of the earlier detail photos) I did minimal cutting to retain the motifs, and scooped out some more at the front so skirt will be shorter in front.  (You can see the original curved edges of the central embroidery on the 2nd image in this post)

The skirt panel is huge, measuring about 185" on the long sides. I say 'about' because when I fold it in half lengthwise it I discover the sides are not the same length and the motifs do not align. Seems in laying out the embroidery those many, many years ago, rather than flipping the (asymmetrical- as it turns out) pattern. It was rotated. So now there is about 4" extra fabric on each side of the skirt, but extra is at front on one side and at back on the other side. Somehow a teeny bit of the motif was traced out on the pattern twice. But it messes with me. So I have to fix it:

what gets removed
that zig-zag machine comes in handy
almost invisible

The finished skirt panel.  Opening is quite curved now since I removed a lot of fullness from the waist edge,  removing little wedges and zig-ging it like I did the embroidered section.  Too much fabric to be gathered to corset even with the cartridge pleating I am going use.  The seams will disappear very nicely into the pleats.


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