Thursday, October 28, 2010

Custom Made Leather Jeans; the Process

Custom-Made is different from Made-to-Order.  Made-to-Order is where an existing pattern is cut with small modifications to the original fit.  Or it can be a standard pattern cut in a non-standard fabrication.

Custom made is specifically cut & tailored to fit one individual  body.
Bespoke is specifically men's wear (English).  Haute couture is  specifically women's wear (French).  Both are individually cut and fit custom- made garments. 

At Behrle NYC,  This is how we make all our men's jeans.  (We do made-to-order in women's styles only).  I am always asked if we do Custom-Made via mail order.  The answer is YES.

The Process:  for Mail Order.

Please contact us via the contact form and include your email address.
You may provide a brief description of what you are looking for - color/style, etc. 

We will contact you for additional information & then send you a measurement chart with instructions and a diagram showing you how to measure. You can take this to a tailor or fill it out yourself- (it's best to have help). The more info you can provide - the better.  We are here & happy to answer any questions.

Send back the completed chart back along with 3 clear photos taken in a well fitting pair of pants- stand straight and relaxed. We need to see front, side and back (full length or torso to floor- it doesn't matter)

We send an invoice for deposit via Paypal (payable within credit card)   Once the measurements & photos are is received, along with your deposit, we start on your muslin, (aka a "toile") which is a cotton fitting garment.  

In approx a week to 10 days (depending on the season) you will receive your muslin/toile along with swatches of leather (based on your preferences),  pins & instructions on how to fit.  You will try it on and mark &/or pin any changes/adjustments and again provide clear photos as before. (front, side and back.)  This way we can see any additional adjustments that will allow us to perfect and customize the fit to you.  You return the marked pinned muslin with your choice of leather noted.
Pattern is corrected & finalized before anything is cut in leather. When pants are done we let you know and invoice the balance which is due before we to ship.

Working by mail order occasionally requires a second muslin, so rush projects will not be accepted by mail.   3-4 weeks is minimal time frame for mail order, depending on the season.  The final shipping charges will vary according to method and location.

We have a standard price range for classic men's jeans that is based on a limited range of currently popular leathers.  However, since Leather prices and availability are subject to change we do not list prices here. You must contact us for current information. 

Stretch leather, exotics, specialty finishes & details like cordovan lacing, contrast top stitching, appliqué and inlay work are not part of this basic range. These are estimated on a per project basis and the time frame on specialty projects vary accordingly.  For More information please see our FAQS page.

 More Examples of Our Custom Made and Specialty Leather Work.


Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Follow the Bespoke

How Saville row has evolved (or not) can be a good lesson for US specialty makers & this is a 
great read from WWD Men.

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Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Leather Mirage

Thank You Mirage Magazine!  For the beautiful editorial page featuring our WD Leather Dickie.  Which goes two- ways,  (fetish or functional).  I like to wear it in the fall & winter under a coat instead of a scarf.   Not quite as bold a statement as it is here!   It's unisex and currently made to order.



Save the Garment Center Jobs Rally

I LOVE the Sign in the middle- would frame it in my studio!

Went to the 2nd "Save the Garment Center" Rally earlier today,  and want to thank Michelle Vale for introducing me to Erica Wolf (of Nanette Lepore) who has been in charge of organizing STGC.  Today's rally was a jobs rally and there were impassioned speakers from all walks of the industry.  (Contact me!  I will make myself available to help!)

I  applaud  Mr. "Central" Park's  (I pretty sure that's what he called himself at the end of his speech!) observation that many of his factory workers have, over the years,  gone on to open their own factories.  To paraphrase Mr. Park : "Do you ever see a Starbuck's worker go on to open their own Starbuck's???"  

You could replace Starbuck's with Kinko's, Duane Reade, McDonald's and any other  large chain and it would be just as true.   I would add  that Starbuck's does not teach concrete skills to anyone past maybe a manager or 2- and frankly I question those skills, having seen Starbuck's managers completely bomb out when taken out of the Starbuck's culture. 

I also liked Roger Cohen's idea of making USA made clothing non-taxable,  just one of many ideas we should fight for to strengthen US Manufacturers.

BTW- Michelle Vale Handbags are incredibly made and highly detailed, luxury leather handbags -many with customizable hardware,  that are all made right here in NYC.  I had the pleasure of meeting her and her husband (and partner) after last week at Afingo's "Behind the Seams" event. ...Looking forward to the next one.


Friday, October 1, 2010

Blown Away by the Future of Fashion

I am just blown away by this video,  which came to my attention via BOF.   I truly agree &  really believe,  that this is the future of fashion.  In one fell swoop it renders the idea of showing on a runway obsolete.  And it raises the bar of the art tremendously.

As a designer, who has done several shows and one large Fashion week production -  I don't think it is optimal for showing the clothes,  communicating the concept or getting the audience.  You are subject to the vagaries of ...oh, the weather, the scheduling,  your PR,  your guests - which celebrity is going to show up...?  The press that shows up - or doesn't.  The models.  The shoes.

As Pugh notes in this story...if a model falls,  "that's an enduring moment".   There are a billion things completely out of your control!  Not good for a designer's temperament at all.

I think beautifully creative presentations like this along with still presentations,  still photography and showroom appointments are the next direction.  Besides "Zombie-faced models" in runway shows can't be gone soon enough for me.

I love the black and white sections and the op-art print and was astounded by the down filled op-art piece (brilliant!) which is, believe it or not,  the exact same cut as this:
  Fur-to-velvet reversible square

It's wonderful, the difference the volume makes.


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