Saturday, May 22, 2010

Custom Made Wedding Bodice-part 2

First the fun part  of re-doing the front foundation.  (PITA) I go back to the drawing board to my first instinctual direction (doh!)

Re-cut and re-trace one front panel and trace all the boning points.  Using a piece of the stretch silk I apply it to the twill along the boning marks.  Because of the stretch I don't need to worry about adding room- or perfect stitching.   I use a rough cut piece & trim it later.




Because of the chiffon I do have to worry about the fabric shredding if boning isn't pushed through carefully.  This stuff is sharp!  I lightly melt the edges of the boning,  being very careful not to allow carbon buildup.  Which has potential to be ugly & messy at all times.  (At least no bleeding yet,  which is a given.  I don"t think it counts if you don't bleed on it at some point!)

Then the crossways boning, using what is really the wrong size twill tape (because its here) I make casings over the applied boning- it will be inside, under several layers.  Slip in the boning & trim.  This layer is the lining,  as well as the foundation.

 I'm a little off here,  but it ain't leather - I have not worked in fabric in years- not like this!
 Now no puckering or buckling inside when curving with the body.

Sew the straps to the front bodice:

And layout the lace:


Here I am using a medallion from the center of the tablecloth.  Centering & mirroring as well as possible,  the cloth is not symmetrical,  at all.   Overall it is several inches off.  Still amazing  being entirely stitched by hand and washed a bunch.   I eye it.

The center of the cloth was the most stained.  I cut around this where possible,  not too concerned.  The stains add to the depth of the cloth,  I may spray parts of it with some tea when it is done. Depends.


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