OK. a little delayed in this, but still going to set this up in increments...
Bodice number 2 wins! It suits not only the overall feeling of the fabric, but it also allows for wonderful usage of the medallions. Number 1 would become a nightmare, especially given my time frame and the very limited hours I have (and want!) to put into this project. I am also a sucker for historical periods & costumes and this is a bit of a Titania variation.
So, for the foundation, I found a nice brushed twill weave cotton that matched the linen beautifully, then I saw a great nude-beige denim that looked incredible under the cut-work, but it was way to heavy weight so I go for the twill.
Back in the studio I re-think this, I have to find something in that color, but much lighter in weight. Back out I go & this is my solution:
You can see the subtle contrast between the linen over the twill by itself vs. with a layer of taupe-y-nude silk chiffon in between the two at the top. So this is what I'm doing.
The silk-chiffon gets basted to the twill, this silk has some stretch in it, (not what I wanted or needed but for the color I will deal. ) It must be handled carefully because the stretch could pucker between the layers if not carefully basted down.
For the front and back panels the twill is cut in two layers one for the outside, which will have the silk & linen over it and one as the foundation layer. Side panels will be single layer (with silk overlay) & twill is bias cut, for a little extra give & cling. Here I use the stretch in the silk. (Side panel is shown from the inside.)
All the basting includes stitching and reference marks. Silk is trimmed down later.
I had planned on stitching the boning directly to the inside foundation. This is how that worked out:
This part gets a re-do. I had actually thought about doing this a different way at first, then spaced on it. So, this goes back to the initial plan. End of first installment.